Survival in Northern Scotland

[ericrobo]

IMG_1060 by Eric Robinson, on Flickr

I started on the HT550 last Monday (18th May 2015) carrying loads of food (and kit) including my trusted Photon tent, Trail Designs stove with fuel tabs + ethanol (and if desperate it can also be a wood burner). It was a cold Monday and it was raining with fresh snow on the hills leaving Tyndrum. It had rained all through the night.The sun came out later by lunchtime but kept disappearing. Crossing the Abhain Rath was not easy... very strong current.
I had some good riding and was going reasonably well, with only one or two problems, one being my old foot injury where my achilles tendon was complaining and causing me to limp at the end of day 1. I camped near Kinloch Laggan just before the road.
Anyway I plodded on with strong winds and frequent showers... said Hello to Melgarve Bothy and continued up the Corrieyairack:
IMG_1036 by Eric Robinson, on Flickr

Fort Augustus came and went, and I lost my route a couple of times along the Great Glen Way, but finally hit the road and turned off at Blaraidh.
After climbing for about 1hr 40 I eventually reached Loch Ma Stac. There can't be many places as gloomy and foreboding with leaden grey skies and piercing wind... get to the shore and ride a bit over the rocks (only a bit) - choppy waves ever closer. Eventually get to the end and what looks like a prison... you do wonder what went on there ?
IMG_1041 by Eric Robinson, on Flickr
I reached Corrimony Bothy at 8pm and decided to stay there.
Set off Wednesday feeling alright except for a sore throat and made good progress to start the climb from Erchless Castle. The gate at Lochan Fada was locked and it was a struggle to get the bike over without taking any bags off... (NB - the SNP want to look at Landowner rights in the Highlands and make sure there is access for all... interesting but we don't want too much interfering).

I restocked a bit in Contin and got just before Loch Vaich before 8pm, where I put the tent up in the rain, and got some hot food in.

Thursday I set off in the rain at about 8am. Some nice riding until I sheltered from the wind in the porch of the little church at Croik, and had a cold rice pudding. Ever onwards got me to the Oykel Bridge Hotel at 1:30pm. Luck was in as lunch was 12 till 2, but as Shaun the barman told me even out of those hours they would still try to supply some sort of food.

I left Oykel Bridge Hotel on Thursday at about 3:30pm after a good meal. This was the unkown part of the ride for me - (I did the HT450 last year but wanted to see the northen loop). Easy riding on quiet single track roads, then very rideable track got me to Maovally Power Station. At this point it had been driving rain and very strong winds for about an hour. The climb up against the wind was desperate. At the top I gathered speed descending to Loch Shin, but the descent and the ever strong wind and rain made me very cold. I had all my five layers on:
Rab Merino base layer, cycling shirt, lightweight fleece, Montane jacket, Inov8 Stormshell waterproof with hood up, a skull cap + a North Face fleece hat covering head and ears...

I've always felt secure bikepacking because I have my tent with me and in an emergency I can put the tent up and recover.

But it don't work like that up in the Highlands... there are very few suitable places to get the tent up. Constant heather and often rocks and heather (and for me lots of wet ground heather too).

At 7pm I had been battling on desperately eyeing up a place to get the tent up, I got to a forest but there was a 6ft deer fence so discarded that idea.

About 7:30 I HAD to get that bloody tent up, and managed to get it up in heather which was a bit shorter than the normal - the pegs didn't go in too well, but I had no options left !

I was shivering uncontrollably so it was the beginning of the dreaded hypothermia I think..

Got the tent up and my wet things off - zipped the tent up to keep out the wind, and got the stove on, and got some hot food in.

Outside it was ferocious wind (probably north westerlies ) and horizontal rain, but somehow my tent stayed up... (Praise be... )

The next day I had to get over the Bealach Horn and was very worried about that given the weather. I got up at 4:30am - put on my wet bib tights, shorts, and two pair of wet socks, then had porridge, and was away by 6:15. It was still extremely windy and showers on and off.

I sheltered behind a building at West Merkland, where you leave the road for a track over to Gobernuisgach Lodge. Just before the lodge there is a track left which is easy to miss.
Anyway I turned left onto this track just before 9am - I calculated about 8 miles to the top of the Bealach Horn.

It took me 5 hours to get there !!! constant wind and rain, and mostly pushing. I managed to ride at one point but the wind blew me into the ditch, and my right foot went in the sludge over the ankle... It took me at least a minute of pulling my leg with both hands to get the foot out !

I had to make sure I got food in but couldn't just stop. I had to wait until there was a suitable mound or something where I could shelter from the wind. My fingers had gone and I couldn't open my energy bars so resorted to teeth

To get my sealskinz waterproof gloves back on each time I stopped took ages...

As I reached Loch Sgeireach the wind and rain was even stronger - this was serious stuff...
I was beyond worry at this stage - I just knew I had to keep going or die.

I finally reached where it descends and you can see the track going up to the Bealach Horn.

And I reached the top at 2pm. Before the top it is definitely suitable to ride but the wind prevented any of that.

Windy all the way down too.

IMG_1062 by Eric Robinson, on Flickr

I reached Achfary a bit before 3pm. Even the good track to Lone and after was desperate to ride because of the wind.

I had contemplated trying to get to Kylesku - probably about 6 miles, thinking I could recover there, but I had lost the will to carry on because of being absolutely battered by wind and ran.

I had an option ! Take the road 30 miles to Lairg ! Which I did, with the wind behind me !

In Lairg I booked in at the hotel, and had a shower then a superb dinner (in my now dry bib tights but with bare feet) and a dram of malt.

Following day I was lucky to get the train to Inverness (first one they had 4 bikes on, so I had to wait 2 hours), then Inverness to Perth, then Perth to Glasgow, then back to Tyndrum at 18:37

Quick change at By The Way (thanks again Mike and Kirsty) then drove 25 miles to stop at the Golden Larches (Balquidder) for a fine meal.

Drove unril Annandale Water services, where I stopped fo an hours kip, then off again to get home at 3am

CONCLUSION
I now have a big question in my mind in terms of surviving:
My tent turned out NOT to be my secure option, but perhaps a bivvy bag would be ?

At least you could get down in the heather and survive the night if it came to the worst... hopefully no chance of being blown away !

I do like the tent because of the midges (midges ? they've emigrated ) - maybe time to carry tent and bivvy bag for emergencies (I did buy one of the those SOL bivvy bags last year but returned it because it just wasn't up to the job, but it was light)

With a tent you have to get the pegs in enough to hold it... and if you did all the heather underneath you means it's pitched in such a way that the sides touch each other, which is not so good when it's pouring down.

So I would really welcome any views on this please...

[Ian]

Good write up Eric.

I think in such conditions, a bivvy would be more versatile but you wouldn't gain anything in terms of comfort. While the situations for suitable for pitching space were sparse, at least you could change and cook out if the wind, which wouldn't have been possible in a bivvy bag.

[Zippy]

Hi Eric,

I appreciate your write up. I cut my Cairngorm Loop this weekend short for similar reasons (there was a few different reasons actually), but my main concern was that the weather was a bit worse than I was expecting and I'd packed pretty light. I was climbing up over Bynack More after Glenmore and the weather turned, very windy (so windy I almost contemplated turning back) and then the rain came. I was wearing a standard base layer, short sleeve jersey, arm warmers, gilet and my rab vapour rise flex jacket (also shorts + merino knee warmers which at a stretch can become leg warmers). I still had full fingered gloves, buff and headband in reserve...but I was only ok temperature wise if I kept moving - and I felt that if mother nature wanted to flex her muscles, I'd be very very miserable / borderline getting a bit dangerous.
Cut a long story short there, I carried on pushing/bumpy riding to the ford of Avon refuge, found out the updated weather forecast from a couple already sheltering there and on balance decided that if the weather properly turned, I was going to get very cold wet and miserable, so ended up letting the weather pass there. Thinking about it all, if it had gone bad, I would have got the tarp out and wrapped myself in that until the weather passed and then got myself to safety. But I didn't feel confident that I had the clothing with me to be ok if the weather properly turned.

In terms of what you've written, I would say that you're thinking of using a bivvy as a bit of an emergency shelter...well I think you could just use the outer of your tent as shelter and just wrap yourself in it like a bivvy... I've used the outer of a tarp once like this and got some sleep whilst the weather passed. Depends on your viewpoint really and what/how you want to achieve it.

[Taylor]

What about a bothy bag?
Plenty warm enough when you get in to it.

[Bearbonesnorm]

I think the question of shelter is a very difficult call in situations like this. While reading, I was trying to decide which of my (too)many shelters I would choose in similar conditions.

Getting into a bivvy bag when it's raining and you're already wet is truly miserable. It's impossible to change or keep anything else dry including your sleeping bag and as Ian says, you'll not be cooking. So, I'd certainly want some form of overhead shelter. A normal flat tarp won't be easy to pitch if the wind's that high and if you do, keeping it pitched probably won't prove easy. However, having a floorless shelter does remove the problem of finding a pitch without heather, rocks, etc.

I decided that my MLD Trailstar would be the shelter of choice - quick to pitch, lots of internal space to cook, change, etc, no floor so can be pitched just about anywhere and possibly the most wind resistant thing I've ever slept in ... pitched at 1m, the wind just goes over the top of it

[ericrobo]

I do have a Lifesystems Survival Bag (weighs 270g) - but it wasn't with me on this trip.
I've had a look at Bothy bags too.
Stu's suggestion of MLD Trailstar is very interesting and I've just been reading various reports.

Stu: What do you use for poles (instead of hiking poles) ?

And would you recommend Silnylon over Cuben ? (more flexible but heavier)

And what about these Oookworks mesh inners (just in case of decent weather = midges and bugs)

Any idea what the overall weight would be with non-hiking poles and Oookworks inner ? (Silnylon/Cuben ?)

And a final...ish question: pegging it down in the heather - do you use much longer pegs (which = more weight) or could you use rocks tied to the guylines to hold it down ?

[Bearbonesnorm]

Stu: What do you use for poles (instead of hiking poles) ?

A rather splendid Pole-A-Bear carbon pole

And would you recommend Silnylon over Cuben ? (more flexible but heavier)

Probably yes. Obviously Sil is heavier but it'll pack smaller and should be easier to pitch ... although, Ian has a cuben one and doesn't seem to have any trouble.

And what about these Oookworks mesh inners (just in case of decent weather = midges and bugs)

Almost impossible to get hold of, MLD or BPWD would be my option for an inner. Generally I use a lightweight bivvy bag (Borah, Ti Goat, etc) that has midge netting and weighs less than 200g.

Any idea what the overall weight would be with non-hiking poles and Oookworks inner ? (Silnylon/Cuben ?)

I think the sil version is around 550g. Not sure about an inner but likely to be 400g - 500g. Pole 75g - 80g. you can use your bike to hold the door open if you don't want to carry a second pole.

pegging it down in the heather - do you use much longer pegs (which = more weight) or could you use rocks tied to the guylines to hold it down ?

You probably could use rocks but I like long easton pegs, bit heavier but very secure.

[FLV]

Good write up, congratulation on not getting deaded out there

In properly strong winds, out in the open I've always struggled with flat tarps. All other times theyre good though.

I have recently bought a Bear paw lair and had that up in a pretty blowy and mildly snowy night up on rushup in the winter, it was very very good. I kind of regret not getting the beak as this would offer a little bit more cover in really grim weather.
I used it with a borah bag and that seemed to work well.

I've mainly pitched it on level ish ground so far but I expect it could work on heathery ground too.

I do have an pyranet inner from BPD but havnt used it in anger yet as its rather large when packed up.

I also use a pole-A-bear carbon pole lovingly hand crafted by stu and available on this very site

[ericrobo]

Following Stu's lead I've been researching MLD Trailstar Cuben with an MLD inner...

some very good reports about how it performs in very strong winds. I like it... a lot !

Last Friday must have made a big big impression on me, cos I've spent ages researching...
Because of the risks I'm taking I have to be confident of my gear.. no spot or anything like that, and Scotland you can easily get 4 seasons in a day...

With my Photon even if you could get it up it's fiddly with making sure the black strap is underneath, making sure the small poles at either end are fitting correctly, then the pole...
(last year doing the HT440 I even managed to let the pole slide into the Caledonian canal ! I retrieved it without having to get wet... )

when it's been compressed into an Alpkit 13L bag it can be a bit confusing... especially if it's dark, especially if you're freezing and being battered by the wind... (I did have to get it up on the Thursday evening, it wasn't dark, but it was very difficult in that wind)

With this trailstar it looks as if within a couple of minutes you can be under it and out of the weather to do all the fine tuning.

The Cuben version has a packed size of 4" x 14" (just got an email from Ron at MLD)

I guess that wouldn't fit into my Alpkit 13litre, stuffed and rolled size of 8.3 x 12.6 inches.

An Alpkit 20 l has a size of 8.7 x 14.9 inches.

Would it fit ?

Anyone know of any other options re getting it packed ?

[Bearbonesnorm]

In terms of litres those pack sizes seem very big. I can stuff my sil version into 5 - 6L without any trouble. Cuben does pack bigger but generally not that much bigger ... did you see the post I put up about a TS for sale?

[ericrobo]

"In terms of litres those pack sizes seem very big. I can stuff my sil version into 5 - 6L without any trouble. Cuben does pack bigger but generally not that much bigger ... did you see the post I put up about a TS for sale?"

Yes I saw that post... pondering it...

Thanks for the info Stu... on that basis it looks like I may get it into my existing 13 litre, which would be good...

maybe a case of 'suck it and see'

[Richpips]

My thoughts.

Having had similar weather this week, even though it hammered down we never got our core wet or cold. Full waterproof body cover is essential. Sealskinz gloves are rubbish when wet. Buffalo or similar mitts are great even when wet.

If you've got enough daytime clothes then maybe you are not eating enough during the day.

We carried a full base layer set, fleece jumper, hat, and primaloft for evening wear. If you underestimate the daytime thermal needs you could borrow from this as long as your waterproofing is good. If you are getting cold daytime, or nighttime you are using calories, and maybe some mojo.

If the weather is mental then taking a good look at the map well before bedtime is essential. Better to stop at 4pm in the shelter of a forest, building or whatever than heading up a hill thinking something will turrn up.

[ericrobo]

Thanks for your thoughts Rich, that's what's great about this site, exchanging ideas and learning..

My core was not getting wet, except from a bit of sweat if hard uphill, which soon wicked away, but the effect of the constant wind eventually will wear you down, particularly so on the Thursday afternoon when I had to stop... I was on the lookout for somewhere to camp from 5pm but found nothing... until I forced myself to stop.

I think I started shivering because I stopped to weigh up my camping options, then actually having to put the tent up. When you're riding or even pushing at least some heat is being produced.

I'll investigate Buffalo mitts - I have Buffalo riding gear for winter, and went for a 'test' ride with my lighter Buffalo fleece on a few days before I went to Scotland... very comfortable in the wind, but as soon as out of the wind, just too warm, so I decided not to take.

My Stormshell Inov8 did a good job, but for legs I didn't take waterproof leggings, just long bib tights and shorts on top. And my legs felt not too bad.

On the Thursday I had had a good meal at the Oykel Bridge so I think I was ok from a calorie angle (had had a decent tent breakfast of 800 cal porridge, + a tin of rice pudding at Croik, + various bits and pieces.. my water intake contained Nuun tabs

I started at 6:15am on the Friday because no way did I want to be on the way to Bealach Horn later in the day. That bloody wind on the Friday could have been F8 for a lot of the time I was trying to get to Bealach Horn, considerable waves on Lochan Sgeirach, driving rain...

I didn't plan on clothing for those conditions otherwise I would have taken my heavier Buffalo winter fleece.

I took Stu's advice and investigated an MLD Trailstar shelter - bombproof in the wind... bit the bullet and ordered one, but I'll have to wait until end of August...

Maybe in September I'll be back to Scotland secure in the thought of a bombproof shelter that I can put up in the heather even !
(then I bet the midges are out ! )

Anyway thanks for your thoughts, and very well done Tom and you, I enjoyed following it all (and still am a bit)

[fatbikephil]

Good effort - sounds like you had worse weather than us but better views!

I spent a lot of time pre race sussing out where I could and could not pitch the tent and made sure I would hit those spots when required. The only iffy bit was from Strath sealga to Canmore where I was racing sunset but otherwise it worked well. For me the tent was a must in this kind of weather for that ability to get in out of the weather. I was also lucky with bothies, the Loch Carron hotel party and a delightfully grotty B&B in fort bill.

[deejayen]

A bit late to this thread, but...

I just wondered if a 'self-supporting' tent might cope a little better when a tent-friendly site isn't available.

I've used a MacPac tunnel tent which is very stable, but it does need to be stretched out and be securely pegged. It has a valance so on a couple of occasions I've been able to use rocks to secure it when I've struggled to drive in one or two pegs.

A couple of years ago I bought a lightweight Terra Nova Solar Photon (if my memory serves me) because it was self-supporting. I haven't actually used it, though! I seem to remember it was a bit fiddly to put up (in the garden), and might not be completely self-supporting.

I've always fancied something like a Hilleberg Unna or Soulo which are self-supporting. The downside is that they're heavy and bulky.

Anyway, I'll be interested to hear how you get on with the TrailStar.

I can confirm that a night in a bivvy bag in midgie country isn't always a pleasant experience - a couple of wet nights in peat bogs on Lewis and Harris were particularly character building.