Four 1m webbing straps with the type of buckle that has the webbing feeding back through the buckle and tightens up on itself.
Two square figure 8 buckle things. Recommended but not required.
Two rectangular buckle things shown sewn in place on the end of the strap. These are optional as you can sew this strap directly to the other one.

Slide the figure 8 onto a strap and loop the strap around your bars and forks, back through the figure 8 and finally throught the buckle and tighten it all up.

The buckle should sit behind and close to the bar.

The strap should be fed through the figure 8 which sits as close to the fork as possible. The figure 8 is not strictly required but it does help tighten things up and helps to stop the strap rotating.

If you are sewing the second strap onto the first instead of using a rectangular buckle thing mark it just above the figure 8 so you know where it goes when you remove it from the bike to sew.

Cut the buckle off a second strap but leave a couple of inches of strap attached. If using the rectangular buckle sew it onto the end of the long piece of strap you have just cut the buckle off. The figure 8 buckle is NOT in the correct position in the photo, it should be below where you marked the strap.

Sew the short buckle strap to the long buckle strap and sew the long strap with no buckle onto the long buckle strap where you marked it.

If using the rectangular buckle instead of sewing then slide it onto the long buckle strap.

It should look like this, left side goes round bars and forks, right side holds the bar bag. Now make another one exactly the same.

Mounted on the bike.

13l drybag.

On some forks the bag may rub on the head tube.

To get round this I cut an aluminium T section then wrapped it in old inner tube to avoid the sharp edges cutting the webbing.

It mounts under the fork by way of a star nut or expander nut inserted into the bottom of the fork steerer.

As you can see it pushes the bag away from the head tube nicely.
