Evening,
I've got (as my 2nd/back-up mountain bike) an On-one Inbred which is currently set-up as a single-speed (using an old rear mech as a chain tensioner).
But.....whilst I really enjoyed riding single-speed in the UK i'm now living in the Ardeche mountains and the single-speed is waaaaay too limiting to be of any practical use here and so I've been toying with the idea of a 1x9 set-up.
Whilst discussing the idea with others it's been suggested that I might want to consider converting it to a 69er (hence my comments in the other thread on this subject).
So.....what I suppose I'm asking is:
- Does anyone see any problems with an Inbred 1x9 69er set-up?
- I currently run v-brakes on this bike (sooo easy to set-up/maintain/run) and so I'd need a new fork and so maybe I should consider a change to running a BB7 up front (seeing as I'd be changing the wheel and fork anyway) for touring/bikepacking friendliness - anyone got any advice in this area???
- Does anyone have any experience with a good (non-downhill) chain-guide for the front?
- How about ratios? I was thinking about 11-34 at the back and a 30 up front - any thoughts?
As per usual - any/all help and advice would be really appreciated.
Cheers, Gairy.
Fully-rigid 1x9 69er query
Moderators: Bearbonesnorm, Taylor, Chew
Re: Fully-rigid 1x9 69er query
For chainguide look at the £15ish Superstar Components version.
For gearing, I find 35 front to 11/34 to be perfect for me. Coming from years of singlespeeding I do tend to attack climbs rather than sit and spin though.
For gearing, I find 35 front to 11/34 to be perfect for me. Coming from years of singlespeeding I do tend to attack climbs rather than sit and spin though.
- Bearbonesnorm
- Posts: 24197
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Re: Fully-rigid 1x9 69er query
NoDoes anyone see any problems with an Inbred 1x9 69er set-up?
BB7's are great, even BB5's aren't too bad. At least you'll be able to have matching brake levers if you run with Avid cable discs. I would'nt go bigger than 180mm.I currently run v-brakes on this bike (sooo easy to set-up/maintain/run) and so I'd need a new fork and so maybe I should consider a change to running a BB7 up front (seeing as I'd be changing the wheel and fork anyway) for touring/bikepacking friendliness - anyone got any advice in this area???
I use a 'Pauls' one but they're not cheap. SuperStar wouldn't be a bad option ... I much prefer the frame mounted ones rather than the BB mounted ones.Does anyone have any experience with a good (non-downhill) chain-guide for the front?
I'd possibly keep things simple with 32 x 11-34. I can see where you're coming from with a 30t front ring but they're not easy to find (I think there's only 2 companies that do them and you nearly always end up grinding some of the crank away to make them fit). Another option might be a 12-36 Deore cassette, they're not exactly light but they last years.How about ratios? I was thinking about 11-34 at the back and a 30 up front - any thoughts?
LINKS
Pauls- http://paulcomp.com/chainkeeper.html
Superstar - http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/index.ph ... uoqv3h0f32
Cassette - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=31059
30T ring -http://www.extralite.com/index_euro.htm
May the bridges you burn light your way
Re: Fully-rigid 1x9 69er query
If you're going to re-purpose a standard middle ring as a single chainring 1x9 then yes, you'll probably need a chainguide.
However, if you're going to buy a SS-specific chainring with longer/chunkier teeth you'll probably get away with it. I've run a Surly stainless 32T ring on a 1x9 setup in the past without a chainguide without throwing the chain.
However, if you're going to buy a SS-specific chainring with longer/chunkier teeth you'll probably get away with it. I've run a Surly stainless 32T ring on a 1x9 setup in the past without a chainguide without throwing the chain.
- gairym
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- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:05 am
- Location: Chamonix, France (but a Yorkshire lad).
Re: Fully-rigid 1x9 69er query
thanks guys - lots to think about.
money-wise i'm thinking that i'll convert to 1x9 first and then (once the heat on my recent bike-spending dies down a bit) i'll convert it to a 69er.
should be fun!
money-wise i'm thinking that i'll convert to 1x9 first and then (once the heat on my recent bike-spending dies down a bit) i'll convert it to a 69er.
should be fun!
Re: Fully-rigid 1x9 69er query
Dyffers, is that over aggresive rocky trails or smoother singletrack type riding?
I'd love to get rid of mine, I hate how it looks. But then I hate it even more when you're enjoying a nice technical descent and you have to stop and hook your chain back on.
I'd love to get rid of mine, I hate how it looks. But then I hate it even more when you're enjoying a nice technical descent and you have to stop and hook your chain back on.
- Bearbonesnorm
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Re: Fully-rigid 1x9 69er query
I find using a short cage mech' can make quite a positive difference.
May the bridges you burn light your way
- gairym
- Posts: 3151
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:05 am
- Location: Chamonix, France (but a Yorkshire lad).
Re: Fully-rigid 1x9 69er query
dumb question but is there any difference with the mechs other than the actual length of the cage???s8tannorm wrote:I find using a short cage mech' can make quite a positive difference.
i ask as it's sometimes difficult to find an 2nd hand short-cage XT mech but i could buy a used XT mech (long-cage) and then a cheap short-caged mech and swap-out the cages - no?
so far i'm thinking (based on what i've learnt here):
- Deore 11-36T cassette
- used XT mech (shortened or otherwise)
- an old shifter
- my 1997 XT crank-arms (for now as they still work great - admittedly with a squeaky-as-hell tapered bottom bracket)
- a Salsa stainless steel 32T chainring
- Superstar chainguide
sound ok to you guys....?
Re: Fully-rigid 1x9 69er query
A couple of laps of Cannock Chase Dog and Monkey trails was as hardcore as I got on 1x9 before I went back to SS.Anthony wrote:Dyffers, is that over aggresive rocky trails or smoother singletrack type riding?