how to convert 142mm x 15mm DT Swiss 350 rear 6 bolt hub to boost standard!?

[redefined_cycles]

Thanks for looking (and responding).

I have a slight problem. Assume the rear wheel I had bought and been saving to build the Santa Cruz, turns out not to be a boost. The hub is a 6 bolt DTSwiss 350. Looks to be a 15mm thru axle and 142mm across.

Been on the DT Swiss site where you can find spare parts. Doesnt look like they do a conversion kit for it and nor do I fancy spending £40 odd quid for an aftermarket version. Plan was to get the bike on the trails in the next few days - mtb tyre ordered - but this seems to be scuppered it...

Any ideas... Whilst Im at it. If I use a standard crankset on a boost type rear end. Will I meet up the chain line too much. I have a non boost on at the moment but have access to an m8000-B chainset. I wonder whether I actually bought that specifically for this bike. Dunno...

Thanks in advance!

[redefined_cycles]

Another option I suppose is to get a bit of a mullet setup going on. Not sure how we'll the geometry of the Santa's Cruz Highball would take it though as its supposed to be a 29er!

I have a boost M1700 rear wheel in XD (yes, I tried the adaptors, theyre exactly same size as what's in the DTSwiss 350 hub!

[redefined_cycles]

Looks like a Boostinator by Wolftooth would do the trick if it was a ratchet hub. But mine is not (and nor are they in stock anywhere!). Oh dear..

[Lazarus]

I have always just put a boost kit on (but not tried with my dt as it is 148 (and my 142 is rarchet* ). I buy cheap ones of ebay.
* I cannot see how the freewheel is in a different place for a ratchet over pawls (did not make any difference to mine when i swapped over) so not sure why type matters both are the same size and fit in the same place.

Cranks i need a boost spacer kit on my cranks on the broken road or the chain line is wrong and drops a chain constantly.

[redefined_cycles]

Thanks John. You might be right about getting an ebay kit (but something makes me worry about safety) ma be the only option. Or maybe get the conversion kit for the Hope Pro2 Evo then rebuild that into this 29er rear wheel!!




Regards the Boostanator by Wolftooth, its not in stock anywhere anyway but that's the description above. Also can't see why it only works with ratchet system!

[redefined_cycles]

https://www.fun-works.com/boost-convers ... 48mm-22819

Bought this in eu. Hopefully sorted now. Just need to redish...

[Lazarus]

If you only space out on one side you need to redish the wheel (as it wont be central)
Mine are 3mm spacers each side so keep wheel central
Never had any issues with ebay kits and done thousands of miles on minem

[redefined_cycles]

Thanks John. Yes, need to redish and add that adaptor. Hoping it arrives soon enough. The ebay kits, do they come with longer bolts and rotor adaptor too (I shouldve checked really as it couldve saved money/time).

Thanks again

[Lazarus]

Yes spacer each side and spacer for disc with longer bolts (could probably have sent you one )

[rudedog]

I use non boost cranks on my Scott genius which has boost rear wheel. These are double cranks but I just use them with a single ring.

The only issue I’ve had is that the max front ring I can use is 34 instead of 36 (the 36 fouls the chain stay).

[redefined_cycles]

Yes spacer each side and spacer for disc with longer bolts (could probably have sent you one )

You actually had a boost conversion set John available to sell. I should kick myself!

[redefined_cycles]

I use non boost cranks on my Scott genius which has boost rear wheel. These are double cranks but I just use them with a single ring.

The only issue I’ve had is that the max front ring I can use is 34 instead of 36 (the 36 fouls the chain stay).

Thanks for this RD... I have a 32 on the xtr/non boost and a 28 on the boost (slightly heavier cranks). Hence the question. Might well just leave em on then for now (non boost). Appreciated.

[Alpinum]

Doesnt look like they do a conversion kit for it and nor do I fancy spending £40 odd qui

They actually do and 5 sec google reveals it costs 36.50 (CHF), so about 30 - 35 quid at your end.

Yes, chainring will have to give the right chainline. This (what type of chainring) depends on your frame and crank (at least with my frames, cranks and rings).
I don't know how often you need to back pedal or pedal kick, but if you do it (regularly) you want to make sure the chainline is spot on.

Whilst it can be confusing, I only use SRAM drivetrains on my bikes and can't help much with Shimano stuff. Sorry Shaf.

[redefined_cycles]

Doesnt look like they do a conversion kit for it and nor do I fancy spending £40 odd qui

They actually do and 5 sec google reveals it costs 36.50 (CHF), so about 30 - 35 quid at your end.

Yes, chainring will have to give the right chainline. This (what type of chainring) depends on your frame and crank (at least with my frames, cranks and rings).
I don't know how often you need to back pedal or pedal kick, but if you do it (regularly) you want to make sure the chainline is spot on.

Whilst it can be confusing, I only use SRAM drivetrains on my bikes and can't help much with Shimano stuff. Sorry Shaf.

Thanks Gian. Out of interest - so I know how bad my Googling is - you got a link to the one for the 142 x 12 350 rear hub. Standard freehub and not ratchet.

[redefined_cycles]

Yes, back peddling is what used to annoy me on the Sonder. In lowest gear it never used to like it. It was boost but I had a standard crank on it AFAIR. Decisions decisions...

[redefined_cycles]

NB. Im gonna guess that youre talking superboost standards maybe and this kit https://fawkes-cycles.co.uk/dt-swiss-re ... 0sQAvD_BwE

From what I had read it adds 7mm instead of the 6mm needed for the 142 to 148 conversion. Maybe not too much a big deal but don't wanna risk any undue stress to the carbon. Maybe I overthought it or!

[Alpinum]

NB. Im gonna guess that youre talking superboost standards maybe and this kit https://fawkes-cycles.co.uk/dt-swiss-re ... 0sQAvD_BwE

From what I had read it adds 7mm instead of the 6mm needed for the 142 to 148 conversion. Maybe not too much a big deal but don't wanna risk any undue stress to the carbon. Maybe I overthought it or!

No, 148 mm is boost. Superboost is 157 mm.
DT 350 hubs which originally were 142 x 12 mm will need 148 x 12 mm caps, nothing else. Next you need to make sure the end caps are suitable for the cassette in use. If you botch it with the wrong caps you might start to cause damage to your bike you'd never think of.

If you're not sure I suggest visiting your lbs with your bike and let them get the right stuff.
Before ordering the wrong stuff and worse - trying to make it work and potentially damaging something.
I've seen freewheel bearings (both) fail prematurely (about 400 - 500 km) on DT350 due to a similar botch.

[redefined_cycles]

Thanks for that info Gian. Yes, I was avoiding the Boostinator for that same reason as it (Wolftooth info) suggested that the caps they were selling only work with the ratchet type freehub. I dont plan to use the ratchet at all.

Looking at https://www.dtswiss.com/en/support/prod ... R28SA4680S it seems they dont actually do a kit to interchange between the 142 and 148. The Farsports kit I bought https://www.fun-works.com/boost-convers ... 48mm-22819 is a disc/non drive only adaptor and then I just need to redish the wheel to come further over towards the disc I believe.

Hopefully Ill not need any shops

[Lazarus]

will need 148 x 12 mm caps, nothing else

No 135 and 142 has the disc in the same place so end caps alone will work

Boost moves the disc as well (front and rear) so needs disc adapters (and wont work with centrelock as far as i know)
My 142 was pawls then ratchet it used the same end cap for both and the freewheel is the same size (or it would not fit casettes) so not sure your freewheel type * matters

* i mean ratchet and pawls v spring no experience of XD HUBS. I have a 370 142 and have boosted that with the cheap ebay kits

[Dyffers]

Yes, chainring will have to give the right chainline. This (what type of chainring) depends on your frame and crank (at least with my frames, cranks and rings).
I don't know how often you need to back pedal or pedal kick, but if you do it (regularly) you want to make sure the chainline is spot on.

I'm also using a normal Shimano chainset on a boost frame (also a Highball CC like Shaf's incidentally). I like it because I'm a roadie and it gives me a lower Q factor.

My only consideration when fitting it was chainring clearance to the chainstay; I fail to see how you can get 'the right chainline' when you're using 9/10/11/12 gears that are ~35-40mm across the cassette? Never had any back pedal issue on 11spd 11-42 and 11-46 cassettes anyway.

[javatime]

; I fail to see how you can get 'the right chainline' when you're using 9/10/11/12 gears that are ~35-40mm across the cassette?

I am open to correction here, but I think the aim is to start off with the correct chain line at the chainring for the middle gear on the cassette that is easy enough to calculate/estimate

That way the maximum misalignment is +/- about 20 mm, as opposed to a possible about 40 mm

This is why square taper chainsets and BB s are useful for home brewed 1x set ups using old 2x chainsets etc as you can tune the chain line using different length BBs, and or spacers whilst minimising Q factor

[redefined_cycles]

John, when woltooth talks about 'only suitbale for ratchet type' do you think this was lost in translation from American to British and they actually meant not suitable for ratchet/XD type hub.

Javatime, yes... Thats how I have always viewed chainline. Basically the best line of both sides of the cassette as its never gonna be straight at the extremes of the cassette range..

Dyffers, so you reckon I might just get away with the lighter non-boost xtr cranks. Plan is to ride and get stronger, then when ready put the good ring/crank which is boost and lower gear, to try an Everest.

Something like that

Thanks everyone, you're like buses...

[Lazarus]

' do you think this was lost in translation

Yes but will double check as i will measure both tonight when i get home

My 142 got converted from pawls to ratchet and then i put that removed pawl one on my 148 hub(xd freehub) neither required end cap changes so i assume all freewheels are the same ...they must be or casettes wont fit. Its possible thebinner bearing is in a dofferent place but it seems to me they are all interchangable xd/ shimano/ pwal or ratchet

Both are dt370 though but i dount it matters

[redefined_cycles]

' do you think this was lost in translation

Yes but will double check as i will measure both tonight when i get home

My 142 got converted from pawls to ratchet and then i put that removed pawl one on my 148 hub(xd freehub) neither required end cap changes so i assume all freewheels are the same ...they must be or casettes wont fit. Its possible thebinner bearing is in a dofferent place but it seems to me they are all interchangable xd/ shimano/ pwal or ratchet

Both are dt370 though but i dount it matters

I removed the end caps off my XD DT Swiss Boost hub (not built up and nor can I afford a new xd type cassette) Jon and they were exactly the same width as the ones on the 142mm that I'm trying to convert to boost. The boost is a straight pull m1700 wheels etc (removed) hub.

[Alpinum]

will need 148 x 12 mm caps, nothing else

Which tw@t wrote this?

Sorry Shaf, I was wrong. Must've confused it with hope hubs where you can swap axle and all to convert a 142 x 12 to a 148 x 12 hub.
DT doesn't offer this.

Here's what I got from my secret industry insider at a disclosed facility:

135 x 5 (QR), 135 x 10, 135 x 12 & 142 x 12 have the same hub body and can be converted

148 x 12 uses a wider hub body and can only be converted to the rather rare 141 x 5 (boost QR - yes, there is such a thing).

150 x 12 has a different body again and can only be converted to 157 x 12.

The end caps (give same freewheel) are always the same:
135 + 7 = 142 (X12)
141 + 7 = 148 (boost)
150 + 7 = 157 (superboost)
190 + 7 = 197 (fatbike)

No 135 and 142 has the disc in the same place so end caps alone will work

Boost moves the disc as well (front and rear) so needs disc adapters (and wont work with centrelock as far as i know)
My 142 was pawls then ratchet it used the same end cap for both and the freewheel is the same size (or it would not fit casettes) so not sure your freewheel type * matters

* i mean ratchet and pawls v spring no experience of XD HUBS. I have a 370 142 and have boosted that with the cheap ebay kits

The rotor position stays the same relative to the brake side, it's 18.8 mm (IS rotor mount). This is true for 142, 148 and other larger widths.
I don't know what the "cheap ebay kits" do but 18.8 mm is one of the very few parameters that can be seen throughout different hub "standards".

There's (or was) odd front hub sizes, but let's not go down that rabbit hole and stick with Shaf's issue.

Freewheel matters with DT.
According to my mate at DT - I mean secret industry contact at a disclosed facility, you need different end caps for different freewheels. Since you write you have a DT350 with 6 bolt (IS) brake mount we can be sure we're not talking about a DT350 Road hub (road boost = 142 x 12 yeah... it's f@cked). These are the end caps options by DT:
SHIMANO MICROSPLINE MTB
SHIMANO MTB
SRAM XD

Regarding 370 vs. 350. Some years ago the difference was 3 pawls vs. 18 t star ratchet. Then 18 t vs. 36 t. Hub body is the same. If you didn't change freewheel type (regarding cassette), you also didn't need to change end caps.

Here's a usually not so helpful support page:
https://www.dtswiss.com/en/support/product-support


So, loads of information none of which will help you.




Good luck & success with whatever option you go.