I shaped a bit of ali plate and turned 4 off ali top-hat spacers. Needs better hardware and a lick of hammerite but it seems functional enough


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No mate just another MTB but Ti this time, actually entered a 120k roadie ride with AudaxUK see if I still fancy the roadie thing
This is new to me. Thanks for the tip!Put pads in the oven, 20 mins @ 180c - et voila, perfectly functioning brakes again!
New to me too, might have to give that a try as the Swiss Stop pads I'm currently running are sounding like a fog horn...
You wont need a bell!
I have an old worn SP here actually. Did you post the service up here, I seem to remember it? I think the SP is a screw-together shell and I'd need to be sure of how the axle and winding part is removed without breaking a wire, rejoining the wire to fit is such limited space was the main faff.fatbikephil wrote: ↑Mon Mar 27, 2023 6:58 pm Good effort Jameso, I've now taken two SP hubs apart for bearing changes - as you say, I right old fiddle but better than buying a new hub!
yourguitarhero wrote: ↑Sun Mar 26, 2023 6:11 am
Put pads in the oven, 20 mins @ 180c - et voila, perfectly functioning brakes again!
viewtopic.php?f=7&t=14444&start=675jameso wrote: ↑Tue Mar 28, 2023 9:30 amI have an old worn SP here actually. Did you post the service up here, I seem to remember it? I think the SP is a screw-together shell and I'd need to be sure of how the axle and winding part is removed without breaking a wire, rejoining the wire to fit is such limited space was the main faff.fatbikephil wrote: ↑Mon Mar 27, 2023 6:58 pm Good effort Jameso, I've now taken two SP hubs apart for bearing changes - as you say, I right old fiddle but better than buying a new hub!
Thanks, useful.fatbikephil wrote: ↑Tue Mar 28, 2023 8:48 pm viewtopic.php?f=7&t=14444&start=675
Page 28 with a couple more bits on page 29
The shell on my disk hub key together whereas the older non disk one didn't. Its sealed with glue so a bit of heat and then a thump got the shell apart.
Be warned - I did a similar thing a few years ago and chucked or gave away a load of bits I was convinced I'd never use again. I've subsequently needed what seems like everything I got rid of!faustus wrote: ↑Fri Mar 31, 2023 9:37 am Been doing an ongoing shed tidy-up. Chucking pointless crap away, and doing the mindful task of sorting through the disparate collections of bolts, washers, valve caps, ferrules, and general gubbins that i've not put away in the right place for an age. All of it going into a drawer storage unit to be labelled and organised properly. It's nice to see the same of everything in the right place again, and also makes it clear I have too many spare...things. Do I really need lots of bits of chain, 30 valve caps, 15 shimano rotor washers, or about 20 chainring bolts?![]()
I got fed up of one the bearings packing up after a couple of months repeatedlyHope Pro 2 singlespeed hub that's been in regular use for 10 years
How much you charging for doing thisI've now taken two SP hubs apart for bearing changes - as you say, I right old fiddle but better than buying a new hub!
Neat work John - is that the seatpost mount light? Looks like it. I have one that I'd like to move to above the rear caliper brake on my road bike - currently have an Alu plate off the brake bridge that holds a round LED back-up light + reflector. It looks like you've got the steel strap/loop off the light to secure on a flat plate there?Johnallan wrote: ↑Tue Mar 21, 2023 9:05 pm The tailfin rack doesn't have a light mount and the one you can buy fits to the bag. Pretty useless with a dynamo rear light if you want to remove the bag..
I shaped a bit of ali plate and turned 4 off ali top-hat spacers. Needs better hardware and a lick of hammerite but it seems functional enough
Fwiw these are Pro 2s Evos from 2011 I think. The main body bearings have been replaced many times, the needle bearings and end bearing in the freehub lasted better, also didn't bother me so much when there was play there as it's just the cassette that rattles a bit not the whole wheel wobbling.