Help me think this through...

[Borderer]

Ok so I posted recently about toe rub issues with my self-built road bike. Thanks to everyone who replied to that. I think from reading the responses I need to replace the cranks for shorter ones and perhaps also the fork to one with a greater offset. This has made me rethink the whole bike! The truth is that I am not really a roadie at heart, but the local riding groups are all road-based and it is hard to find other local riders to socialise with otherwise. Also the potholes in our rural area are appalling - a friend's husband broke 7 ribs in a fall caused by one a couple of years ago. I have also lost a lot of road confidence since being clipped by a car a couple of years ago.

So I think what I would really like is a gravel bike. That way I could take it off road but also pop a couple of skinny tyres on if I wanted to ride with the roadies sometime. Some of the sportives are road based and they are fun so I would be able to take part in those too.

Naturally I want a carbon one to be as light as possible - Ti would be better, but I can't afford that. I also can't afford to buy a built-up carbon gravel bike but it seems a shame to waste the perfectly good components on the road bike when I could swap some over to a CX/gravel carbon frame. I fancy having hydraulic disk brakes on the gravel bike - could I use the rim brake levers I have to power them? From what I can see from road/cx hydraulic brakes the reservoir seems to be on the calliper rather than the lever as it is with MTB disk brakes - is that right? Can you foresee any other issues regarding reusing the components? I have built two bikes so far and neither very successfully, compatibility issues being the main struggle. So any heads-up in advance would be useful.

I guess the other option is to switch to 650B wheels on the road bike but I am not very confident that I could run wide tyres on it even then - is there a way to be able to tell? Would I need to get new brakes with a longer reach so that they align with the smaller diameter rim? Would anything else need to change?

Here is the road bike again for reference. If anyone happens to have a carbon gravel frame for sale in a small then please let me know.

[voodoo_simon]

I’m not sure 650 wheels will work on a bike with rim brakes*. If it does, it will lower the bike too, so more chance of getting pedal stroke at the 6 o’clock position of banking over

*long caliber brakes aren’t that much longer from memory

[Borderer]

I’m not sure 650 wheels will work on a bike with rim brakes*. If it does, it will lower the bike too, so more chance of getting pedal stroke at the 6 o’clock position of banking over

*long caliber brakes aren’t that much longer from memory

Ok thanks. That's that option ruled out straight away then.

[kvragu]

I agree with above, 650 on the road frame shouldn't work. I have friends that brazed on canti mounts lower on the fork and seatstays, but this is steel they worked with, and well, they know how to do it.

I never looked into carbon stuff, I only know planetx has 'gravely' framesets for £1k.

You seem to want to re-use the bits from the road bike, you'd have to go for rim brakes (e.g., cantilevers) to keep the wheels.

A cheaper (and cool) way out I think would be to find a steel frameset with canti mounts, perhaps an old cyclocross-marketed one. You can transplant probably most of the bits from your current road bike, optimistically you can get away with just getting new calipers and tyres, and you're set. Provided you're ok with cantis and not discs.

Alternatively, find a cyclocross carbon frame and it's not much extra work than with a steel one I guess. No experience with carbon at all, the only thing I read is that carbon forks might jitter with cantis, but that has not complicated fixes (totally armchairing here).

[redefined_cycles]

I'd go for a steel gravel bike or a cannondale alu... If you're getting carbon then do some research into who you're buying from and how the frame is contructed...

[fatbikephil]

Hi Bridget, a few thoughts from me....
If you go with a gravel frame and cable disks you'll be able to use the drive train off that as well as bars, stem and seat. Obviously you won't be on trend with a pair of ludicrously wide flared bars but generations of cyclo-crossers can't be wrong.

If you get an old cross frame with canti mounts the above applies and you can keep the wheels (I run 40mm tyres on a pair of track wheels with 19mm rims). Or, get a surly cross check frame and a set of cantis or short V's. Not carbon and £550 new but a very nice frame and bombproof.

If you want hydro brakes then it all gets very spendy. You'll be looking at a dedicated shim or sram grovel groupset which are lots of dosh. Best option is to splash out n a new bike. The planet X Ti and placcy framed things seem to be good value.

Or a Pinnacle arkose or Genesis CDA for a good value ally frame. But if it was me I'd be after a straggler or midnight special, but thats 'cos I love steel surly frames.

Finally re toe overlap, it can be a problem on gravel bikes too. I ditched my Fargo due to the toe overlap being a real problem (newer ones are longer), especially on a rough trail when you tend to waggle the bars a lot to avoid big rocks. So I'd have a good measure up of the TT length, offset and head angle on your current bike and compare with geo charts of prospective frames to ensure no toe overlap. I'm now on a cross check and a straggler for my gravel duties. The straggler is OK toe overlap wise but it can be a problem on the slightly shorter cross-check (both on 700x40 with mudguards). I know what I need, geo wise, to avoid it but not a lot of use to someone who isn't 6'1" with size 11 feet......

[thenorthwind]

My advice would be to save yourself the time, hassle, and quite possibly money trying to find an appropriate frame that will take the components you want to swap over, and the new ones you want to buy, and hold out for a full bike second-hand and sell the old bike complete.

I know bikes are supposedly a bit scarce right now, but there still seem to be plenty around. Perhaps less in your immediate area, but must be a few in the Tweed valley and around?

I bought my Pinnacle Arkose second hand 2 or 3 years ago for £400 - it's nothing flashy but solid and capable: aluminium frame/carbon fork (don't think you'd gain much with a carbon frame IMO), 105 groupset (hydraulic disc brakes). Maybe I got particularly lucky, but something similar would suit your needs I reckon. Sure I saw something locally that would have fit the bill the other day, but remember thinking it was a bargain so it'll be long gone.

[Borderer]

Thanks all. Yeah I have been looking a lot on eBay and there are a couple there that I really like but the sellers won't post.

Anyone near Frome or Broadway fancy picking up a bike for me?

Dave and Phil - I will message you the ebay links for some that I have been looking at to see what you think......

[Charliecres]

My CX bike (Ridley X-Bow) is the only bike I get significant toe overlap with, so a CX frame won’t necessarily solve your issue.

I also reckon looking out for a full bike (preferably one you can test ride) is the best way to get what you need with minimum hassle and expense.

The Planet X London Road is very good value.

[trob6]

Hello Bridget

I'm about half hour or so from Broadway if its the Cotswolds one anyway and would happily pick up a bike.

Tim

[redefined_cycles]

One other thing Bridget... If buying carbon (which I believe is what you're concentrating on) then make sure you don't buy used unless you're examining it yourself in person or someone else who is doing so, does the 'coin tap' test. It should show up any inconsistencies in the carbon underneath (listening for tone against the carbon next to it... you'll notice when you hear what you wouldn't want to hear).

Also... if you do find a funny tone, walk away. Dont try and squeeze the carbon around that part as there's always the risk it could mush up in your hand..

[Borderer]

Hello Bridget

I'm about half hour or so from Broadway if its the Cotswolds one anyway and would happily pick up a bike.

Tim

Thanks Tim, that's very kind. I doubt very much I will win it but I will bear that in mind, cheers.

[Cheddar Man]

Thanks all. Yeah I have been looking a lot on eBay and there are a couple there that I really like but the sellers won't post.

Anyone near Frome or Broadway fancy picking up a bike for me?

Dave and Phil - I will message you the ebay links for some that I have been looking at to see what you think......

I'm not far from Frome if you need a hand

[Borderer]

Thanks all. Yeah I have been looking a lot on eBay and there are a couple there that I really like but the sellers won't post.

Anyone near Frome or Broadway fancy picking up a bike for me?

Dave and Phil - I will message you the ebay links for some that I have been looking at to see what you think......

I'm not far from Frome if you need a hand

Thank you

[jameso]

Be wary of a S/H carbon bikes, personally I wouldn't touch one unless it came from a trusted source. Small risk but serious potential outcome.

Coin taps can help if you know what you're looking for and have good experience in that area. Not sure I'd use it to make a call on an unknown frame though, mainly as I don't know what I'm doing :) also since it probably won't spot early stages of delamination or voids that could grow to be something major later on.

[Borderer]

Thanks. Yeah I was thinking of a new carbon fibre frame from China tbh. As I said I can't afford a second hand cf bike anyway. So far I have bought 2 cf bikes and 2 frames second hand from eBay without issues. Maybe I have just been lucky.

[petermac]

oowah, you are going to hate me..
i lived in chichester for a while and had a carbon scott addict..
fantastic for italy when we lived in verona...
english country roads...no way...
traffic, holes and general distain got me on a pugsley....
no worries off road or potholed A versions..
now in london and thrash around richmond park on said pug-lovely to all intents and purposes like the loon that i am.
would i own a carbon road bike..or a road bike per se ever again...nope.
i had my salsa horse thief rigged for speed prior to xmas and it was a blast...
the powers, when closing the parks, didn't realise they released mad ones out into the suburbs, as far as chertsey and beyond, thereby discovering new routes of torture and fun.
lost loads of weight, bodily since then and have now just stuck to the big fat thing......
bollocks to being picky...
get out and go bananas darling....
good luck and keep ya eye on the horizon.
peter.
loontown london

[Borderer]

Thanks for that. Yeah I have given up on the carbon idea as I can't afford one and cba with the inevitable compatibility issues that arise when building your own!

I'm not really planning on bikepacking on this new bike so the weight is less important - ali will do.

[Kumquat]

Hi
Hmm yeah
I would I think, aim to find yourself a complete 2nd hand bike. Something like the arkose would be a good bet.
Alu frame and carbon fork will offer best bang for your buck. Spunk some cash on some whizzy tubeless tyres for a comfort and performance boost.

*Just had a thought*
How tall are you?
I have a charge tange prestige plug
With Kona carbon forks in a low slung 52cm in my shed. Built up with 105 10spd and cable discs.
Like I said, just a thought.
There must be a ton of similar 2nd hand bikes out there......

[Borderer]

*Just had a thought*
How tall are you?
I have a charge tange prestige plug
With Kona carbon forks in a low slung 52cm in my shed. Built up with 105 10spd and cable discs.
Like I said, just a thought.
There must be a ton of similar 2nd hand bikes out there......

Thanks for the thought. I am 5ft4 though which is problematic in bike terms. I'm just that bit too small for most men's small frames and xs are hens teeth. Likewise women-specific bikes at a reasonable price.

My CX bike (Ridley X-Bow) is the only bike I get significant toe overlap with, so a CX frame won’t necessarily solve your issue.

The Planet X London Road is very good value.

Sorry I missed this comment at the time. One of the bikes I have been looking at is a Ridley X bow so that is very interesting. I hadn't considered the London Road as its listed as a road bike, but I see what you mean now - it can take a 32mm tyre by the looks of it. I will have a closer look at it. Cheers

[sean_iow]

Pretty sure I bought my London Road with 38mm tyres on 700c rims. I've now got 46mm tyres on 650b but that does lower the BB a bit.

I'm in the shed tomorrow so I'll check as the old wheels are hung up.

I used to comutte on it, they are good value. I didn't ride every day but after 18 months the fuel savings by not driving were the same as it cost me.

[Borderer]

the fuel savings by not driving were the same as it cost me.

This is why I am able to justify buying a bike. I just sold my van for slightly more than scrap value and if I sell my road bike too I can scrape together enough for a gravel bike. It goes against the grain to spend it all on myself but it so happens that the boy wants for nothing at the moment so I am in the clear

[Charliecres]

Since you’re looking at a X-Bow, I thought I’d mention that I really like mine , despite the toe overlap. It mainly gets ridden on the road these days as I also have a Pickenflick. It’s really light, comfy and nippy - just fun to ride.

[Borderer]

Since you’re looking at a X-Bow, I thought I’d mention that I really like mine , despite the toe overlap. It mainly gets ridden on the road these days as I also have a Pickenflick. It’s really light, comfy and nippy - just fun to ride.

I really don't like the idea of the toe overlap, I have to say. Someone has offered me a completely brand new X bow though for a very reasonable price. Claims it has never had pedals fitted even. It does sound fairly legit and is quite tempting, but someone else is ahead of me in the queue so it depends if they take it. It's really not an ideal time to be buying a s/h bike though as you don't get the chance to try them first.

I am liking the look of the London Road though - I see that the small frame is a 48cm, so equivalent to an XS in many other places. Interesting.

[boxelder]

A measurement from fork drop out to bottom bracket centre should avoid toe overlap on and full build or F&F shouldn't it?