Hebridean Way (No extras)

[metalheart]

My plan had been to ride the Hebridean Way, taking in some detours, sights, off-road sections but sometimes plans don't always, er, plan out.

The weather gods decided that wind and rain was to be the motifs for the trip, so my 5-6 day dawdle up the islands turned into a heads down 3 day grind (mostly).

Took the train from Glasgow to Oban the the ferry to Castlebay, Barra. Disembarked in the pishing rain and, after a quick stock up at the Co-Op, I made my way down to the start (Vatersay).

Castle Bay/Oban Ferry by Metalheart-UK, on Flickr

The view from the start of the Hebridean Way, Vatersay by Metalheart-UK, on Flickr

Met a couple of fellow cyclists (paniered up) and stopped to chat, they were doing the HW too... Some loose arrangement to meet on the Eriskay ferry was made...

It was getting on a bit and I was 'bikebacking' so I'd spied a spot near a sheep pen that looked good on the way down and stopped there and pitched up... only to realise that the wind was too strong and it wasn't a good stop... Looked around and decided, inside the sheep pen was the best option... Pegs were only 2/3rds in at best and it took a bit of jiggery pokery to get a half decent set up. With the dark descended, the rain pishing and the wind 3 sheets it was nothing but crawl into the sleeping bag and try and get to sleep... At 3 am the wind was pretty strong and I began to worry about the tent being blown apart. I spent about an hour holding the pole up before admitting defeat and packing up.

At around 5am I was on the road. Back up the road to Barra then the coastal (LH) route, along 780, to Northbay and the Eriskay ferry. Luckily my early start meant I caught the 7am one, yay... As I was getting on i got a 'hello again' from one of the ferrymen. We'd passed in the dark as he was walking to his car and I'd said hello (the wind meant I don't know if he replied...).

On the ferry were three other cyclists. A couple intent on getting to Leverburgh and a guy set on the Butt that day... I kept schtum, I was going as far as I felt before stopping....

So, Eriskay and its not even 8am, best get going again then. South Uist. Benebecula. Grimsay. It was all a bit of a blur, rain and wind, until I hit Moorcroft at the bottom of North Uist around 4 pm... A sign said Campsite & Bunkhouse. I was at the start of a hill (I couldn't see how far it went), there was a strong headwind in my face. I weakened. I could just go ask if they had a sheltered pitch... The woman said we have a bunkhouse, £20... that was all it took, done! Had it all to myself. A shower, a gourmet meal (crisp baps!) and turned in early done in.

A slow start the next day (but the wind had died down and the sun was up!).

North Uist (Moorcroft) by Metalheart-UK, on Flickr

Moorcroft Bunkhouse, North Uist. by Metalheart-UK, on Flickr

Set off just before 8.30. It was almost pleasant! Met a guy on a Canyon full susser 'on tour' (at the Co-op, Sollas) and shot the breeze for a bit before heading off to the ferry to South Harris. Which I missed by about 15 minutes, bugger. After a cheese bap and some millionaires shortbread I still had an hour and a half to kill so took a wee dander. Damn, there's a tearoom/cafe/restaurant just up the road and round the corner I could've had a real meal! Still a pot of tea was welcome.

Waiting for the ferry Chris & Agi (we'd met on Vatersay) turned up just in time. Wrong ferry but we made it!

As we were headed the same place (Tarbert) we teamed up and I tried to talk them into staying at Rhenigidale Hostel...

South Harris, quick stock up at the community shop and off we set. Even stopped a couple times to take photos!

South Harris by Metalheart-UK, on Flickr

South Harris by Metalheart-UK, on Flickr

South Harris by Metalheart-UK, on Flickr

It was steady-ish until the real hill (and the rain) started. It pished, again. We made it to Tarbert the back of half five. Any intentions of getting to Rhenigidale were gone as by the time I'd had food it wouldn't leave much daylight. I succumbed to the lure of a warm, dry hostel, food, a beer and some chat...

Last day I'd decided I was just going to push on to the Butt. It was nice early on (I was tempted to break out the shorts!) so headed off around half eight (again). The two "Levenburgh" cyclists from the Eriskay ferry passed me on the hill out of Harris... Bumped into them again, later, in Stornoway...

North Harris (looking down on the road to Rhenigidale) by Metalheart-UK, on Flickr

About the crossover between Harris and Lewis it started pishing again. But only heavy showers on and off for an hour or two... By the turn off to Callanis it was brightening up with just a lighter shower every now and again.

Callanais, Lewis by Metalheart-UK, on Flickr

At the Callanish Visitor Centre I decided to stop and have my only second proper/hot meal of the trip. And my one excursion, to the stones.

Callanais Stones, Lewis. by Metalheart-UK, on Flickr

Callanais Stones, Lewis. by Metalheart-UK, on Flickr

Man, I love them stones.

However, I still needed to make the Butt. The weather had improved (I even took off my waterproofs!) and headed north. All was good until Bragar when it started pishin (again). A quick restock at the Bravas filling station/shop and back into a headwind for the last 15-16 miles...

God it dragged... and its a busy wee road after six!

Sun setting at the butt of Lewis. by Metalheart-UK, on Flickr

Made it about quarter to eight.

Butt of Lewis Lighthouse. by Metalheart-UK, on Flickr

The finishing point... by Metalheart-UK, on Flickr

The wind was getting worse, there were a few other campers (and the best, sheltered, spots gone) so headed to the beach at the wee cove and after trying to work out where the tide came up to decided that was the best I was going to get and pitched up. A lovely spot, flap open to see the sea and stars (oh, and check if my assessment of the tide was correct... ). All was fine, tide stopped a good ten metres away. And then the wind turned...and a couple of pegs pulled out of the sand. Had to get up and 'sort-it-out' three times before finally admitting defeat and packing up. Set off to Stornoway not long after first light.

I had intended riding back home from Ullapool partly on the HT550 route (but not necessarily in the right direction) but, to put it bluntly, my arse was giving me gyp (think 'chaffed' ) and instead of my 'leisurely' 5-6 day trip I'd beasted it out in three. Quite frankly, I'm not fit enough. So a quick call to International Rescue and a very nice man in a van turned up to meet me off the Ullapool ferry. Cheers Colin, you're a star!

On the drive back we could see just how much rain had fallen, the route would've been pretty damn wet. I reckon (sadly) I had made the right decision...

Besides, when the nethers return to normality, we made a general agreement to return and do it as an overnighter from Contin.

Sorry, no pictures of my pitches as a) it was dark by the time I'd got fully pitched and b) they came down hurridly in the wind and driving rain, neither condusive to getting the camera out. Ok, its a bit of 'tour' but hey ho, it was my trip....

Now, do I rob the Flite Transalp saddle off the (unused) roadie or get a whole new one?

[Moder-dye]

Nice write up, pity about the bad spell of weather you had. Hoping to do the western isles maybe next year with a friend

[ScotRoutes]

Remember what I was saying about karma?

[metalheart]

Remember what I was saying about karma?

That's not how it's supposed to work! Last night or this morning?

[ScotRoutes]

This afternoon. It's not moved since I got home last night. Can't see anything in it but looks like my trip for riding tomorrow is off.

[metalheart]

looks like my bill just got bigger...

Get pm to come up the road, it'd be too busy in BA tomorrow anyways....

[metalheart]

Nice write up, pity about the bad spell of weather you had. Hoping to do the western isles maybe next year with a friend

Yeah, it's a wild barren place, you know, a bit like, well, Shetland really

Some company would make the suffering a bit easier if it went that way. And I'd probably taken even less photos if the pair met en route hadn't stopped... (it was so crap the first proper day it didn't even enter my head to take out the camera...).

I'd like to head back to Shetland one day as I've only ever been there through work (and that was over 10 years ago). Used to have to go to Unst, Yell & Whalsay. This weeks weather reminded me of these places....

[Moder-dye]

Yeah, sounded a bit 'Shetlandic'

If you (or anyone) are ever coming up this way give me a shout. Though there's little off-roading to be done other than a few short routes to very lovely coastal areas there's lots of nice on-road touring to be done.

[summittoppler]

Nice write up! Big shame the weather wasn't on your side, I was well lucky last year.
Its always good to get out though

[metalheart]

Its always good to get out though

Amen to that, brother. I was 'dressed' for it, my feet stayed dry, I never got completely soaked (just a bit more than damp really) and the two hostel nights meant I got washed up.

Feel better for having done it for sure as it was a little push out for me to 'just do it'... Still got to pick up my car from Glasgow but, hey ho.

Some nicer weather would have slowed me down and take it bit easier and look around me more. I can always go back another year...

[ScotRoutes]

Its always good to get out though

Amen to that, brother. I was 'dressed' for it, my feet stayed dry, I never got completely soaked (just a bit more than damp really) and the two hostel nights meant I got washed up.

Feel better for having done it for sure as it was a little push out for me to 'just do it'... Still got to pick up my car from Glasgow but, hey ho.

Some nicer weather would have slowed me down and take it bit easier and look around me more. I can always go back another year...

OTOH I've yet to "do" Orkney and Shetland........

[metalheart]

If you (or anyone) are ever coming up this way give me a shout.

Will do. I quite fancy an Orkney/Shetland trip sometime in the not too distant.

Although the waiting for a ferry in the pishin rain memories will need to recede a bit first... Quite a bit!

[metalheart]

OTOH I've yet to "do" Orkney and Shetland........

You posted as I was scribbling...

I've mentioned this to you before. But I thought you were more intent on heading up with Mim & Fanny?

Or are you looking to 'scrounge' a lift back...

It would need to be next year now though as not sure October/November are prime cycling months in the Sheetlands...

[Moder-dye]

October and November are definitely not prime cycling times in Orkney or Shetland Just depends on how character building you want your trip to be, atleast it rarely gets real cold, no midgies then and no tics.

I met a lad the other week on a 26er who'd had to resort to hitching with his bike to lerwick from yell (you here?) As the fresh headwind all the way south just got too much with a ferry to catch.

As for ferries we have great waiting rooms for them and its not at all unheard of for people to camp out in the inter island ones overnight, though obviously officially its a no no.

Be great to meet up with anyone heading this way

[metalheart]

Ha, is there actually a good time to cycle in the Sheetlands? I can recall some really foul weather, especially in Unst. I remember one time the water being blown up the roof of the Baltasound Hotel! Plus I used to have to spec extra strong mounting bolts for roof mounted fans to stop them being ripped off by the wind (and I remember a door being ripped off its hinges as it got caught in a gust in Levenwick...).

I quite fancy a trip out Brae and stopping in past the Windy Dog cafe at the ferry for Unst. Plus, a visit to Twatt, just for the photo-op (and its on the way back down from Brae on the West IIRC). Also fancy the Mavis Grind C-to-C... might even session it...

Need to see how plans go but wouldn't be before April next year at earliest.

Do they still like a drink in Ler'ick? Is Peerie Friday still a thing?

[Moder-dye]

...Was worried about the thread being derailed but then realised its your thread anyway

Drinking is a 'national' pastime here ( other than for me), but I've never heard of peerie Friday and just asked a friend whose a full blood jarl squading drinking Shetlander and he's not heard of it either. I'm assuming its a Thursday warm up for Friday in the context of what you said?

The wind dog is now the gutcher goose cafe and just as greasy, and the Baltasound hotel has just shut down. And yes the Twatt photo is quite popular and there is a Twatt in Orkney too.

I have had a daft idea of organising a mix surface 24hr 'midsummer madness' audax/ITT around Simmer Dim, but with the prospect of knee replacement looming and any quality riding taking a nose dive as a result it won't be anytime soon.

[metalheart]

Maybe it was a tradesman thing, peerie Friday was Wednesday (or so I was told, by a plumber I used to have to deal with).

Is there not a (motor)bike thing around Simmer Dim? A busy (ferry) time I'd think.

Mind you, my Shetland knowledge is at least 10 years out of date, prob nearer 15...

And yeah, my thread, I can derail all I like

[Moder-dye]

Ah right , had no idea about peerie Friday and asked a few shetlanders who didn't either.

Yeh Simmer Dim bike rally is either the weekend before or after the solstice depending on his it falls. If we ever did an event we could do the opposite weekend (seems to mainly piss it down for their weekend). Any way a few bikes would still fit on the ferry though cabins are always at a premium (and price).