Lake district bikepacking with Zippy and Wotsits
Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 1:30 pm
This is a very quick write up following a very wet weekend in the Lakes.
The original aim was to follow the South Lakes 100 route and potentially add some bits on if we fancied it. We didn’t plan for such horrific weather – it’s grim up north!
Day 1
Met up with Chris (Zippy) on Friday morning and got on the road
Quite sunny, dry, mild and generally nice. Good spring bikepacking weather. But we were down south
Up the A1 and across the Yorkshire Dales straight into the Lakes. Beautiful countryside but the weather.. It’s grim up north. The grim started around the Yorkshire Dales and never left us
We got up to Staveley for around 1.30pm, it was belting it down!
By the time we faffed about, had some lunch, sorted the bikes, and procrastinated we were rolling at 3.30pm
We followed the route but it was slow going, the muddy slog at the start was quite technical in the conditions given all the rocks that were thrown in for good measure. It was very slippery
After about two hours we’d done 8 miles... 8 miles! It was slow
At the bottom of the climb up from Kentmere we stopped for a bite to eat when we realised we were moving quite slowly and might have a problem with getting to the pub for dinner. I noticed my
Revelate Pocket had filled with water, so moved a few things around (like phone/wallet/key) so they weren’t sitting in a pool of wate, plus poured the pool away
We climbed up from Kentmere and got to a river crossing with some stepping stones. The stepping stones were completely submerged and the water was gushing over the top of them. The crossing was up to Chris’ knees within 2 steps and it was in pretty full flow
At this point I’d got off the bike to have a reccy and noticed my frame bag was undone. I had a quick rummage, found my phone and wallet but not my key. Meanwhile Chris had walked up and down a bit to discover there was nowhere safe to get across with the bikes. I had a proper search of the bike and confirmed that the car key was definitely missing. Nuts
So we turned back and looked for the key. Thankfully Chris found it after not too long, what a relief. We both agreed that we shouldn’t try the river in that state so we dropped down off the hill, which was good fun, and then hit the road. We basically went back to where we’d left the car via the road and then took the road onto Windermere. Staveley to Windermere is 3 miles, it felt about 8. Brutal
headwind and rain, it was a hard fought 3 miles. By the time we got into Windermere it made sense to just carry onto Ambleside, this was a good decision. Ambleside was a much easier 5 miles with at least half of that downhill
We’d doubled our mileage following that stint on the road, although the road was pretty wet too!
We had some drinks and 3 courses in the pub, which was very welcome. It was busy in there (and it was also St Patricks Day) and plenty of folk thought we were completely nuts. We carried onto Rydal
Cave after that where we spent the night – thank you to Quimarche for the recommendation
At no point did it stop raining. We were both testing various Paramo outfits, I was glad to have been wearing mine. I actually cycled with a hood up for nearly all of the ride, and was quite glad of that
Knee length seal skinz didn’t work though, water came in through the top, a lot. I would conservatively estimate I had 300ml in each sock, which I poured out when we got to the pub. It wasn’t pleasant pedalling with that in your sock!
This was our route on day 1 - https://www.strava.com/activities/908529584
Day 2
We had a dry night in the cave despite the deluge outside and the constant dripping inside, we were rolling by about 9.30am having had a brew and a bite to eat outside (when it supposed to be dry but was just drizzling).
From there we followed the route over some lovely tracks. A couple of climbs and some very wet sections later we had lunch in Elterwater. Some great views here, if it was clear I would imagine it is magical, Great Langdale is gorgeous
We passed a river crossing where there were some stepping stones for walkers to get across the river (footpath either side). They were all under cover, even the ones near the edge
All through the day we were planning to meet Jase (Wotsits), but he wasn’t sure when he might get up there and therefore where we should meet. We were able to get some signal in Elterwater and agreed to either meet in Hawkshead or the pub in Satterthwaite
We rolled into Hawkshead at 3.30pm and were able to get signal again. We confirmed that we’d meet in the pub in Satterthwaite for dinner
Elterwater to Hawkshead was a nice section, we saw a few bikers and a few more walkers, plus some 4x4s doing some greenlining. Great rocky tracks (although very wet) and just a lovely part of the world.
The next section out of Hawkshead is a bit of a climb but there’s a lovely trail (TNF trail) leading down to Grizedale visitor centre. What made it better was that we found the ONLY weather window the whole weekend that wasn’t raining. The sun even came out (very briefly). We had to derobe part way up the climb as we were overheating
We got down to Grizedale visitor centre to find the cafe closed (and the rain was back!), but we spotted a potential spot to sleep by the picnic benches. The downside was that we’d have to be away pretty early to avoid any visitors or dog walkers
But we now had a rough plan for somewhere to stay, and a dinner date in the pub, so we carried out safe in the knowledge that we knew where we might be staying and it didn’t involve being subject to the horrific weather
More climbing out of the visitor centre, some on the trail centre trails, some on fireroad. Given it was mostly up from Grizedale, and it was raining pretty hard, it was obviously a bit slow. I wasn’t sure if we’d make the pub on time. When we looked at the map earlier we knew that there were some bail out options to shorten this bit and get to the pub quicker, but the point I was thinking about the route was the point we were furthest away and so committed
But then we got to Parkamoor and it was all worth it. From here onwards the route changed and we got to moorland which was ace. You couldn’t see much due to the rain/fog/cloud but you had a sense of the big open spaces that were there
There was also a great looking bothy/cottage but it was locked, would have been a mint place to stay!
Then we got to the proper descent, oh my was it worth it. Apparently known as the three witches or granddad, dad and dentist. This is the best descent I’ve ever experienced!
Everything aligned - I thought we were at the furthest point and had quite a way to go, the light was starting to go quickly, the pub and dinner was beckoning (plus I was hungry), and then bam – epic descent
And just when I thought it was over there was more. Its a mile and a half of fast/rocky/technical descent and boy was it good! Even on a loaded bike.
And it dropped us out a very, very short road section away from the pub
Pub was excellent, 3 courses and drinks in here too. Plus there was a fire so we could dry some kit out
Left the pub after 11pm and rode back to Grizedale (in the rain, again). Jase had a better suggestion that was similar to where we found but more tucked away, and there were toilets too! It was great to have a dry spot to spend the night (there was a slight bit of wind blown rain), it was wet and windy all night.
This was our route on day 2 - https://www.strava.com/activities/908530330
Day 3
Very wet and windy over night!
The caretaker for the place we were bivvying at turned up in the morning, we were up but hadn’t packed up. He didn’t seem to mind, he had a bit of a chat with us and commented on the weather. You
know it’s wet when even the locals are saying it’s wet (as they had the whole weekend in fact)
Once packed up we procrastinated more by having some food and a brew, it was miserable out from under the sheltered bit we were occupying
Jase knows the lakes very well so we used the route for guidance but also his inside knowledge. We went up Breasty Haw climb was which interesting in the wet, but had a brilliant descent off the other side. Another climb later followed by another excellent descent took us down to Lake Windermere.
The ferry was thankfully running so we grabbed that across to Windermere and headed back to Staveley (with a mixture of road and off road)
Lunch in Wilf’s and then headed back, we were on the road by 3.30pm and I got home 6 hours later
The grim stopped somewhere in the Yorkshire Dales, although it was a bit rainy on and off all the way home
We had a section in the Yorkshire Dales where we had to turn back. One of the roads was flooded quite badly, we’d noticed flooded flood plains on the way back already but now we faced one, with a road running through it. We only saw 4x4s getting through it, and a Volvo C30 parked up on the side having broken down after trying it. A couple of motorbikes did get through, good effort. Most turned around. I wasn’t risking that in a borrowed Peugeot 307, known for having low air intakes, so we diverted around.
This was our route on day 3 - https://www.strava.com/activities/908530710
All in an excellent weekend. Without question the wettest weekend I’ve had, I thought my previous record was already reaching unattainable heights and fairly safe in lead spot, but what a place for a wet weekend. I’d like to come back in the dry as while the route is rideable in the wet, it would be so much fun in the dry.
Total distance was 80 miles, a lot less than the 100 miles we’d planned (and we were even thinking of adding stuff onto that)
I found the natural trails to be so much more fun than the trail centre stuff. Trail Centre wasn’t bad, but the natural stuff was so good! Last time I came up my favourite descent was The Fox, I’ve found a new high
Bike was good on the whole, although I had a few gear problems which I need to sort, I could fairly often get into gears 1, 2, 4 and 6, others came and went during the trip. I’m not sure I ever saw 9 or 10! I think I need to make a hole in my Revelate Pocket to let it drain. I don’t mind stuff getting wet, but not helpful if it’s sitting in a pool of water. Other Revelate bags were fine
I’ll sort some pictures out but I didn’t take many. Zip, can you post any of yours up?
The original aim was to follow the South Lakes 100 route and potentially add some bits on if we fancied it. We didn’t plan for such horrific weather – it’s grim up north!
Day 1
Met up with Chris (Zippy) on Friday morning and got on the road
Quite sunny, dry, mild and generally nice. Good spring bikepacking weather. But we were down south
Up the A1 and across the Yorkshire Dales straight into the Lakes. Beautiful countryside but the weather.. It’s grim up north. The grim started around the Yorkshire Dales and never left us
We got up to Staveley for around 1.30pm, it was belting it down!
By the time we faffed about, had some lunch, sorted the bikes, and procrastinated we were rolling at 3.30pm
We followed the route but it was slow going, the muddy slog at the start was quite technical in the conditions given all the rocks that were thrown in for good measure. It was very slippery
After about two hours we’d done 8 miles... 8 miles! It was slow
At the bottom of the climb up from Kentmere we stopped for a bite to eat when we realised we were moving quite slowly and might have a problem with getting to the pub for dinner. I noticed my
Revelate Pocket had filled with water, so moved a few things around (like phone/wallet/key) so they weren’t sitting in a pool of wate, plus poured the pool away
We climbed up from Kentmere and got to a river crossing with some stepping stones. The stepping stones were completely submerged and the water was gushing over the top of them. The crossing was up to Chris’ knees within 2 steps and it was in pretty full flow
At this point I’d got off the bike to have a reccy and noticed my frame bag was undone. I had a quick rummage, found my phone and wallet but not my key. Meanwhile Chris had walked up and down a bit to discover there was nowhere safe to get across with the bikes. I had a proper search of the bike and confirmed that the car key was definitely missing. Nuts
So we turned back and looked for the key. Thankfully Chris found it after not too long, what a relief. We both agreed that we shouldn’t try the river in that state so we dropped down off the hill, which was good fun, and then hit the road. We basically went back to where we’d left the car via the road and then took the road onto Windermere. Staveley to Windermere is 3 miles, it felt about 8. Brutal
headwind and rain, it was a hard fought 3 miles. By the time we got into Windermere it made sense to just carry onto Ambleside, this was a good decision. Ambleside was a much easier 5 miles with at least half of that downhill
We’d doubled our mileage following that stint on the road, although the road was pretty wet too!
We had some drinks and 3 courses in the pub, which was very welcome. It was busy in there (and it was also St Patricks Day) and plenty of folk thought we were completely nuts. We carried onto Rydal
Cave after that where we spent the night – thank you to Quimarche for the recommendation
At no point did it stop raining. We were both testing various Paramo outfits, I was glad to have been wearing mine. I actually cycled with a hood up for nearly all of the ride, and was quite glad of that
Knee length seal skinz didn’t work though, water came in through the top, a lot. I would conservatively estimate I had 300ml in each sock, which I poured out when we got to the pub. It wasn’t pleasant pedalling with that in your sock!
This was our route on day 1 - https://www.strava.com/activities/908529584
Day 2
We had a dry night in the cave despite the deluge outside and the constant dripping inside, we were rolling by about 9.30am having had a brew and a bite to eat outside (when it supposed to be dry but was just drizzling).
From there we followed the route over some lovely tracks. A couple of climbs and some very wet sections later we had lunch in Elterwater. Some great views here, if it was clear I would imagine it is magical, Great Langdale is gorgeous
We passed a river crossing where there were some stepping stones for walkers to get across the river (footpath either side). They were all under cover, even the ones near the edge
All through the day we were planning to meet Jase (Wotsits), but he wasn’t sure when he might get up there and therefore where we should meet. We were able to get some signal in Elterwater and agreed to either meet in Hawkshead or the pub in Satterthwaite
We rolled into Hawkshead at 3.30pm and were able to get signal again. We confirmed that we’d meet in the pub in Satterthwaite for dinner
Elterwater to Hawkshead was a nice section, we saw a few bikers and a few more walkers, plus some 4x4s doing some greenlining. Great rocky tracks (although very wet) and just a lovely part of the world.
The next section out of Hawkshead is a bit of a climb but there’s a lovely trail (TNF trail) leading down to Grizedale visitor centre. What made it better was that we found the ONLY weather window the whole weekend that wasn’t raining. The sun even came out (very briefly). We had to derobe part way up the climb as we were overheating
We got down to Grizedale visitor centre to find the cafe closed (and the rain was back!), but we spotted a potential spot to sleep by the picnic benches. The downside was that we’d have to be away pretty early to avoid any visitors or dog walkers
But we now had a rough plan for somewhere to stay, and a dinner date in the pub, so we carried out safe in the knowledge that we knew where we might be staying and it didn’t involve being subject to the horrific weather
More climbing out of the visitor centre, some on the trail centre trails, some on fireroad. Given it was mostly up from Grizedale, and it was raining pretty hard, it was obviously a bit slow. I wasn’t sure if we’d make the pub on time. When we looked at the map earlier we knew that there were some bail out options to shorten this bit and get to the pub quicker, but the point I was thinking about the route was the point we were furthest away and so committed
But then we got to Parkamoor and it was all worth it. From here onwards the route changed and we got to moorland which was ace. You couldn’t see much due to the rain/fog/cloud but you had a sense of the big open spaces that were there
There was also a great looking bothy/cottage but it was locked, would have been a mint place to stay!
Then we got to the proper descent, oh my was it worth it. Apparently known as the three witches or granddad, dad and dentist. This is the best descent I’ve ever experienced!
Everything aligned - I thought we were at the furthest point and had quite a way to go, the light was starting to go quickly, the pub and dinner was beckoning (plus I was hungry), and then bam – epic descent
And just when I thought it was over there was more. Its a mile and a half of fast/rocky/technical descent and boy was it good! Even on a loaded bike.
And it dropped us out a very, very short road section away from the pub
Pub was excellent, 3 courses and drinks in here too. Plus there was a fire so we could dry some kit out
Left the pub after 11pm and rode back to Grizedale (in the rain, again). Jase had a better suggestion that was similar to where we found but more tucked away, and there were toilets too! It was great to have a dry spot to spend the night (there was a slight bit of wind blown rain), it was wet and windy all night.
This was our route on day 2 - https://www.strava.com/activities/908530330
Day 3
Very wet and windy over night!
The caretaker for the place we were bivvying at turned up in the morning, we were up but hadn’t packed up. He didn’t seem to mind, he had a bit of a chat with us and commented on the weather. You
know it’s wet when even the locals are saying it’s wet (as they had the whole weekend in fact)
Once packed up we procrastinated more by having some food and a brew, it was miserable out from under the sheltered bit we were occupying
Jase knows the lakes very well so we used the route for guidance but also his inside knowledge. We went up Breasty Haw climb was which interesting in the wet, but had a brilliant descent off the other side. Another climb later followed by another excellent descent took us down to Lake Windermere.
The ferry was thankfully running so we grabbed that across to Windermere and headed back to Staveley (with a mixture of road and off road)
Lunch in Wilf’s and then headed back, we were on the road by 3.30pm and I got home 6 hours later
The grim stopped somewhere in the Yorkshire Dales, although it was a bit rainy on and off all the way home
We had a section in the Yorkshire Dales where we had to turn back. One of the roads was flooded quite badly, we’d noticed flooded flood plains on the way back already but now we faced one, with a road running through it. We only saw 4x4s getting through it, and a Volvo C30 parked up on the side having broken down after trying it. A couple of motorbikes did get through, good effort. Most turned around. I wasn’t risking that in a borrowed Peugeot 307, known for having low air intakes, so we diverted around.
This was our route on day 3 - https://www.strava.com/activities/908530710
All in an excellent weekend. Without question the wettest weekend I’ve had, I thought my previous record was already reaching unattainable heights and fairly safe in lead spot, but what a place for a wet weekend. I’d like to come back in the dry as while the route is rideable in the wet, it would be so much fun in the dry.
Total distance was 80 miles, a lot less than the 100 miles we’d planned (and we were even thinking of adding stuff onto that)
I found the natural trails to be so much more fun than the trail centre stuff. Trail Centre wasn’t bad, but the natural stuff was so good! Last time I came up my favourite descent was The Fox, I’ve found a new high
Bike was good on the whole, although I had a few gear problems which I need to sort, I could fairly often get into gears 1, 2, 4 and 6, others came and went during the trip. I’m not sure I ever saw 9 or 10! I think I need to make a hole in my Revelate Pocket to let it drain. I don’t mind stuff getting wet, but not helpful if it’s sitting in a pool of water. Other Revelate bags were fine
I’ll sort some pictures out but I didn’t take many. Zip, can you post any of yours up?