Bikepacking in the Lakes, and a short Welsh trip too
Posted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 1:26 pm
I went away on to the Lakes at the start of the month with Jason (Wotsits), but work has been bonkers so it’s taken me weeks to get round to write something down. I still don’t really have enough time to do a good job on it, so I’ll just jot down my random thoughts and anecdotes of the trip
Didn’t start well, meant to get to Staveley for around 2pm on Friday, didn’t get there till after 5pm. Once I’d loaded up then found my tubeless front wasn’t working, valve was knackered and leaking air, and I’d only brought 1 tube with me, great! So new tube in and off we went. We left Staveley around 6pm, by which point it was completely pitch black!
I’d left home just after 9am loaded up with my wife, her friend and my 2 kids. I dropped them in Liverpool on the (vague) way up. I spent a lot of time in the car!
Temperature was amazingly mild, had to take my windshirt off not long into the ride which is pretty good going for Autumn in the North West
Another mechanical not long in (Jason broke his chain) but thankfully that was the last of the trip. I took an impressively short amount of time fixing that
Some of the sections were pretty technical (for a complete amateur like me), I’m not ashamed to say that I got off and walked a few of them, but in the most case the whole ride was very rideable and huge fun
Good ride from Staveley to Ambleside, on part of the Lakeland 200 route I think. But we were well behind schedule at this point, mainly due to me taking so long to get up. Dinner was booked for about 7.30 but there was no chance of us making that. Jase phoned ahead and as long as we turned up at 8.45pm we’d get served.
It was 8pm when we got to Ambleside, so we jumped on the road and made up time to Grasmere
Dropped bikes in the YHA bike store and went to Tweedies, arriving bang on 8.45pm – nice
Starter and main course later, (never finished my main, was stuffed!), plus a few follow up drinks and we headed back to the YHA
Hadn’t pitched up earlier so 1am was obviously the perfect time to do it, timed it perfectly for the rain. Came down once my tarp was up!
Camped in the grounds of the YHA, last official night that we could apparently. Actually I rigged my tarp off 2 picnic benches, thats obviously why they put them there...
It was nice to be able to have a shower before getting into bed. But it was drizzling when I got back to the tarp so went straight to bed
Fairly monumental rain over night – loud, heavy and lots of it!

Fry up in the canteen for brekkie, then Jase’s mate turned up to ride with us for the day
Was about mid morning by the time we’d faff’d around and packed. Then we were off!
Weather on the whole was fine. Mostly mild, rain just before lunch, lots of fog. Given it was early November I thought that was alright to be honest!
Unusually, and unfortunately, I was as heavy in the morning as I was the night before – no food eaten, no booze drunk, no fuel used
We had a cracking ride in the morning, but unfortunately don't know exactly where we went (without checking a map). There was an obligatory bit of hike a bike too



The main event of the morning was Cathedral Cave, which was pretty spectacular. I suspect we were among very few bikepackers to have gone through, this was my first ever climb a bike! The main cave is cool and would make a very cheeky Bivi spot. We then went through the back and climbed up to the top, passing the bikes up between us, there's no way of doing this solo without some serious risk (or unloading the bikes). A bloke, on foot, off STW saw us at this point and posted up a thread saying he'd met three MTBers in the Cave - crazy small world! After that more hike/climb a bike down some rocks to a tunnel, which was low enough to hit your head on. Was pretty special wheeling your bike through a surprisingly long tunnel, not something I’ve done before!






We met some greenlaners on the other side who'd had an incident, the front landy was now in a spot of bother. We spent a while chatting but it turned out they were doing some major faffing and speculating so we moved on. I was quite keen on seeing how they were going to rescue it but they were so slow we carried on, it was raining at this point so easy to get cold

Lunch in a nice little cafe in Hawkshead, while it continued to rain outside. Paninis each followed by cake (cracking ginger tiffin in my case)

I was cold getting back to the bike but that was soon remedied with a technical climb straight out of Hawkshead
The climb led us into Grizedale Forest for some trails, which were great fun but would have been nicer without all the weight. I didn’t relise it was a full on trail centre till we got there, was great fun
Said bye to Jase's mate at the bike shop who had a bit of a ride back to get back to Grasmere. We tried to blag a test ride on an e-bike but no luck as the batteries weren't plugged in. Shame, I've still not been on one!
Hike a bike up ‘Boulder alley’ and a couple of great descents, one particularly good one (my favourite of the whole weekend) called the Fox I think? It was wide enough to be forgiving with luggage, but rocky enough to have to think about it, and required lights on given the time which just made it more fun
From here it gets a bit sketchy, we headed to Newby Bridge to check out a pub for dinner, but it was absolutely rammed full, no chance. Plus it was quite posh and we were quite muddy! It was the rugby final weekend and the rugby was on so that might be have it even more popular than usual. Can't remember what time it was but I was hungry so chomped down some fudge for a quick boost
Onwards we went to our next stop, via a fire road climb that seemed endless. That was a real leg burner, on and on! Was really thankful I’d had something to eat as I’m sure I would have bonked on this. Was delighted when we got to the top! It was pretty dark so we had a quick moment with lights off to check out the view and the sky, but the conditions it was very cloudy with a touch of fog so there was nothing to see
Then more tracks and trails, some being very squelchy but rideable, till we got to a decision point. We arrived at a t junction, left up the hill to the campsite, or right down the hill to the pub for dinner and back up the hill afterwards. It was about 8-9ish at this point, my legs were tired, and we had dinner with us as back up. I’d have normally said straight to the campsite but we were low on water so pub was the obvious decision.
Down the hill we went, down and down and down. I was enjoying the speed but getting slightly concerned at how far down we were going. It was endless, in hindsight it would have made a great offroad descent and to do it on the road was a waste but at the time I wasn’t fussed at all, it was still pretty good on the road.
And the pub was worth the descent, a real gem, genuinely. We sat by an open fire rotating wet clothes so they'd dry out. And the food was great. I was so warm and content that I wasn't looking forward to getting back on the bike, if they'd offered us a floor to sleep on, or even the timber framed heated marquee outside, I'd have probably taken it.
There was no chance we were going back up the hill at this stage, so we rode to the back up Bivi spot, which was next to a small lake/tarn in a nature reserve
The Bivi spot was lovely, but the ground was rocky as hell. There was about an inch of topsoil and then it was solid. Four of my guy lines were attached to fence or rocky wall, not quite sure how the rest found a home, it took ages to wrestle them into the ground. They weren’t arrow straight when they came out!
It was very foggy but there was no wind at all and no rain. Once we'd pitched up it was well past midnight
At this point most sensible folk would have thought 'it's late, I'm tired and I've been on the bike all day, I'm going to bed', but having ridden for many hours we then thought I know, lets drink ALL the whiskey we had with us
I had 230ml of Glenlivet, and Jase had a similar amount of Laphroaig. I’m usually find Laphroaig too peaty but it tasted lovely on this occasion. We stood for about an hour and a half bantering randomly and finishing the booze. I’m not quite sure why we didn’t sit down near to the tarn, there were plenty of rocks. By the end of that I was feeling the whiskey, we knocked back about 2/3rds of a bottle in about 90 minutes
I slept well that night! It was so mild and still, I didn’t even need a tarp up. My tarp was fairly flappy anyway as I couldn’t find good rigging points so if there had been any wind it might have been a bit noisy
Nice view in the morning, the fog had cleared and we could see the tarn, really lovely little spot.





Coffee and light breakfast once we’d packed up, then off we went
The usual rule is to take a bivi spot when you see it, otherwise you could be searching forever. That rule held true, we didn’t see any suitable spots for a good 30 minutes or so after leaving the site so it was nice to know we’d picked right – or Jase had picked right anyway, I didn’t really do anything on that!
It was a pretty quick and easy ride back to the car.
The only event to speak of was the field of bulls we rode through, and the monster bull sitting smack bang on the corner of the field and the path. Jase was quite keen on jumping over the wall into a field and then jumping over the wall the other side, which would have been the safe and sensible thing to do. But my bike was fully loaded, I didn’t have anything on me (bumbag or rucksack) and didn’t fancy trying to get it over a (traditional Lake District) stone wall, twice. So with a rare streak of bravery, I wondered slowly around the bull, Hope hub helpfully clicking to let the big guy know where I was at all times. Part of me thought it was pretty stupid but my exit strategy was to drop the bike, which was between me and him, and try and vault the wall the other side. I’m pleased to say we made it through alive, he could probably smell the whiskey on us and didn’t fancy having a go. If I was on my own I’m not quite sure what I would have done!
Coffee and breakfast at Wilfs was a nice treat to end the trip.
We parted ways and I drove home (via Liverpool to pick everyone up, then to Manchester Hard Rock cafe for lunch, then home in the foggy foggy rain)
16 miles on the day 1 (night 1 really...)
40 miles on day 2
9 miles on day 3
This pic is for Whitestone, how to get 2 bottles and a half frame bag on a large Solaris

A few firsts for me this trip
- First time on a bike round the Lakes
- First time bikepacking in the Lakes (obviously given the above!)
- First time I’ve done a bikepacking trip with main meals procured from eating establishments, I usually take/cook my own food
- First time I’ve camped in a youth hostel. No different from a campsite but the showers were nicer and there was breakfast availability
- First time I've been to so many pubs/places with that romantic, stereotypical-movie, traditional country feel
- First time I did no planning at all, Jase did everything (bookings, route planning, navigation). I was a sheep all weekend, that was nice actually. Cheers Jase
So all in all it was a cracking trip, one of my favourite ever bikepacking trips in fact. I don’t know why I don’t read more trip reports in the Lakes, it’s such a special place. I’d like to go more but for me, being based in London, it’s a real slog. And I’ve never been up to that bit of the country and had a traffic free journey but I’m looking forward to going back at some point, I’ve even been looking at options for going by train! Big thanks to Jase for this weekend, cheers mate
About 10 days later I did another bikepacking trip to Wales, this time stayed in Nant Syddion and the route was kindly created by Stuart. RichardG and Blackhound from this parish were there for the ride too. Only a few pics so no point posting an additional thread for that. There was a fairly epic rainbow running over me on the drive up there – that was clearly an omen, it was bright on my drive there, i was clearly driving into the cloud – the weekend was very wet!
In summary a really good trip, 50 miles in just under 24 hours. The first night was very foggy with crazy wind and lots of tain. The next day was lots of rain with some rain, not much dense fog but enough to ensure there were no views! But considering it was a Stuart route it was amazingly rideable! Really nice to have company on a trip with such awful weather. There were a couple of fords that involved some surprisingly fast flowing water! We passed through where the WRC was running but the cars weren't out so we had a clear run. We met 3 guys in the bothy, one of whom had just got back from cycling his way all over Europe on a Triban 3 road bike - a damn fine effort





PS - I googled the difference between fog and mist following these trips, it was bad in the Lakes and even worse coming back in the car, then I had more in Wales – I got to pondering what the difference was. Mist is light, fog is the heavier version of the same thing. There you go, fact for the day
Didn’t start well, meant to get to Staveley for around 2pm on Friday, didn’t get there till after 5pm. Once I’d loaded up then found my tubeless front wasn’t working, valve was knackered and leaking air, and I’d only brought 1 tube with me, great! So new tube in and off we went. We left Staveley around 6pm, by which point it was completely pitch black!
I’d left home just after 9am loaded up with my wife, her friend and my 2 kids. I dropped them in Liverpool on the (vague) way up. I spent a lot of time in the car!
Temperature was amazingly mild, had to take my windshirt off not long into the ride which is pretty good going for Autumn in the North West
Another mechanical not long in (Jason broke his chain) but thankfully that was the last of the trip. I took an impressively short amount of time fixing that
Some of the sections were pretty technical (for a complete amateur like me), I’m not ashamed to say that I got off and walked a few of them, but in the most case the whole ride was very rideable and huge fun
Good ride from Staveley to Ambleside, on part of the Lakeland 200 route I think. But we were well behind schedule at this point, mainly due to me taking so long to get up. Dinner was booked for about 7.30 but there was no chance of us making that. Jase phoned ahead and as long as we turned up at 8.45pm we’d get served.
It was 8pm when we got to Ambleside, so we jumped on the road and made up time to Grasmere
Dropped bikes in the YHA bike store and went to Tweedies, arriving bang on 8.45pm – nice
Starter and main course later, (never finished my main, was stuffed!), plus a few follow up drinks and we headed back to the YHA
Hadn’t pitched up earlier so 1am was obviously the perfect time to do it, timed it perfectly for the rain. Came down once my tarp was up!
Camped in the grounds of the YHA, last official night that we could apparently. Actually I rigged my tarp off 2 picnic benches, thats obviously why they put them there...
It was nice to be able to have a shower before getting into bed. But it was drizzling when I got back to the tarp so went straight to bed
Fairly monumental rain over night – loud, heavy and lots of it!

Fry up in the canteen for brekkie, then Jase’s mate turned up to ride with us for the day
Was about mid morning by the time we’d faff’d around and packed. Then we were off!
Weather on the whole was fine. Mostly mild, rain just before lunch, lots of fog. Given it was early November I thought that was alright to be honest!
Unusually, and unfortunately, I was as heavy in the morning as I was the night before – no food eaten, no booze drunk, no fuel used
We had a cracking ride in the morning, but unfortunately don't know exactly where we went (without checking a map). There was an obligatory bit of hike a bike too



The main event of the morning was Cathedral Cave, which was pretty spectacular. I suspect we were among very few bikepackers to have gone through, this was my first ever climb a bike! The main cave is cool and would make a very cheeky Bivi spot. We then went through the back and climbed up to the top, passing the bikes up between us, there's no way of doing this solo without some serious risk (or unloading the bikes). A bloke, on foot, off STW saw us at this point and posted up a thread saying he'd met three MTBers in the Cave - crazy small world! After that more hike/climb a bike down some rocks to a tunnel, which was low enough to hit your head on. Was pretty special wheeling your bike through a surprisingly long tunnel, not something I’ve done before!






We met some greenlaners on the other side who'd had an incident, the front landy was now in a spot of bother. We spent a while chatting but it turned out they were doing some major faffing and speculating so we moved on. I was quite keen on seeing how they were going to rescue it but they were so slow we carried on, it was raining at this point so easy to get cold

Lunch in a nice little cafe in Hawkshead, while it continued to rain outside. Paninis each followed by cake (cracking ginger tiffin in my case)

I was cold getting back to the bike but that was soon remedied with a technical climb straight out of Hawkshead
The climb led us into Grizedale Forest for some trails, which were great fun but would have been nicer without all the weight. I didn’t relise it was a full on trail centre till we got there, was great fun
Said bye to Jase's mate at the bike shop who had a bit of a ride back to get back to Grasmere. We tried to blag a test ride on an e-bike but no luck as the batteries weren't plugged in. Shame, I've still not been on one!
Hike a bike up ‘Boulder alley’ and a couple of great descents, one particularly good one (my favourite of the whole weekend) called the Fox I think? It was wide enough to be forgiving with luggage, but rocky enough to have to think about it, and required lights on given the time which just made it more fun
From here it gets a bit sketchy, we headed to Newby Bridge to check out a pub for dinner, but it was absolutely rammed full, no chance. Plus it was quite posh and we were quite muddy! It was the rugby final weekend and the rugby was on so that might be have it even more popular than usual. Can't remember what time it was but I was hungry so chomped down some fudge for a quick boost
Onwards we went to our next stop, via a fire road climb that seemed endless. That was a real leg burner, on and on! Was really thankful I’d had something to eat as I’m sure I would have bonked on this. Was delighted when we got to the top! It was pretty dark so we had a quick moment with lights off to check out the view and the sky, but the conditions it was very cloudy with a touch of fog so there was nothing to see
Then more tracks and trails, some being very squelchy but rideable, till we got to a decision point. We arrived at a t junction, left up the hill to the campsite, or right down the hill to the pub for dinner and back up the hill afterwards. It was about 8-9ish at this point, my legs were tired, and we had dinner with us as back up. I’d have normally said straight to the campsite but we were low on water so pub was the obvious decision.
Down the hill we went, down and down and down. I was enjoying the speed but getting slightly concerned at how far down we were going. It was endless, in hindsight it would have made a great offroad descent and to do it on the road was a waste but at the time I wasn’t fussed at all, it was still pretty good on the road.
And the pub was worth the descent, a real gem, genuinely. We sat by an open fire rotating wet clothes so they'd dry out. And the food was great. I was so warm and content that I wasn't looking forward to getting back on the bike, if they'd offered us a floor to sleep on, or even the timber framed heated marquee outside, I'd have probably taken it.
There was no chance we were going back up the hill at this stage, so we rode to the back up Bivi spot, which was next to a small lake/tarn in a nature reserve
The Bivi spot was lovely, but the ground was rocky as hell. There was about an inch of topsoil and then it was solid. Four of my guy lines were attached to fence or rocky wall, not quite sure how the rest found a home, it took ages to wrestle them into the ground. They weren’t arrow straight when they came out!
It was very foggy but there was no wind at all and no rain. Once we'd pitched up it was well past midnight
At this point most sensible folk would have thought 'it's late, I'm tired and I've been on the bike all day, I'm going to bed', but having ridden for many hours we then thought I know, lets drink ALL the whiskey we had with us
I had 230ml of Glenlivet, and Jase had a similar amount of Laphroaig. I’m usually find Laphroaig too peaty but it tasted lovely on this occasion. We stood for about an hour and a half bantering randomly and finishing the booze. I’m not quite sure why we didn’t sit down near to the tarn, there were plenty of rocks. By the end of that I was feeling the whiskey, we knocked back about 2/3rds of a bottle in about 90 minutes
I slept well that night! It was so mild and still, I didn’t even need a tarp up. My tarp was fairly flappy anyway as I couldn’t find good rigging points so if there had been any wind it might have been a bit noisy
Nice view in the morning, the fog had cleared and we could see the tarn, really lovely little spot.





Coffee and light breakfast once we’d packed up, then off we went
The usual rule is to take a bivi spot when you see it, otherwise you could be searching forever. That rule held true, we didn’t see any suitable spots for a good 30 minutes or so after leaving the site so it was nice to know we’d picked right – or Jase had picked right anyway, I didn’t really do anything on that!
It was a pretty quick and easy ride back to the car.
The only event to speak of was the field of bulls we rode through, and the monster bull sitting smack bang on the corner of the field and the path. Jase was quite keen on jumping over the wall into a field and then jumping over the wall the other side, which would have been the safe and sensible thing to do. But my bike was fully loaded, I didn’t have anything on me (bumbag or rucksack) and didn’t fancy trying to get it over a (traditional Lake District) stone wall, twice. So with a rare streak of bravery, I wondered slowly around the bull, Hope hub helpfully clicking to let the big guy know where I was at all times. Part of me thought it was pretty stupid but my exit strategy was to drop the bike, which was between me and him, and try and vault the wall the other side. I’m pleased to say we made it through alive, he could probably smell the whiskey on us and didn’t fancy having a go. If I was on my own I’m not quite sure what I would have done!
Coffee and breakfast at Wilfs was a nice treat to end the trip.
We parted ways and I drove home (via Liverpool to pick everyone up, then to Manchester Hard Rock cafe for lunch, then home in the foggy foggy rain)
16 miles on the day 1 (night 1 really...)
40 miles on day 2
9 miles on day 3
This pic is for Whitestone, how to get 2 bottles and a half frame bag on a large Solaris

A few firsts for me this trip
- First time on a bike round the Lakes
- First time bikepacking in the Lakes (obviously given the above!)
- First time I’ve done a bikepacking trip with main meals procured from eating establishments, I usually take/cook my own food
- First time I’ve camped in a youth hostel. No different from a campsite but the showers were nicer and there was breakfast availability
- First time I've been to so many pubs/places with that romantic, stereotypical-movie, traditional country feel
- First time I did no planning at all, Jase did everything (bookings, route planning, navigation). I was a sheep all weekend, that was nice actually. Cheers Jase
So all in all it was a cracking trip, one of my favourite ever bikepacking trips in fact. I don’t know why I don’t read more trip reports in the Lakes, it’s such a special place. I’d like to go more but for me, being based in London, it’s a real slog. And I’ve never been up to that bit of the country and had a traffic free journey but I’m looking forward to going back at some point, I’ve even been looking at options for going by train! Big thanks to Jase for this weekend, cheers mate
About 10 days later I did another bikepacking trip to Wales, this time stayed in Nant Syddion and the route was kindly created by Stuart. RichardG and Blackhound from this parish were there for the ride too. Only a few pics so no point posting an additional thread for that. There was a fairly epic rainbow running over me on the drive up there – that was clearly an omen, it was bright on my drive there, i was clearly driving into the cloud – the weekend was very wet!
In summary a really good trip, 50 miles in just under 24 hours. The first night was very foggy with crazy wind and lots of tain. The next day was lots of rain with some rain, not much dense fog but enough to ensure there were no views! But considering it was a Stuart route it was amazingly rideable! Really nice to have company on a trip with such awful weather. There were a couple of fords that involved some surprisingly fast flowing water! We passed through where the WRC was running but the cars weren't out so we had a clear run. We met 3 guys in the bothy, one of whom had just got back from cycling his way all over Europe on a Triban 3 road bike - a damn fine effort





PS - I googled the difference between fog and mist following these trips, it was bad in the Lakes and even worse coming back in the car, then I had more in Wales – I got to pondering what the difference was. Mist is light, fog is the heavier version of the same thing. There you go, fact for the day