Following tearing a sidewall on last nights ride (thats the end of specialized tyres for me, I used to get on well with them)

Just wondering if anyone considers taking a lightweight spare tyre on longer ITT's

I generally am reasonably prepared to fix / fettle things on longer ITT's or trips but also I seem to remember seeing someone carrying a spare tyre on one of the HT events and thinking to myself that said person had no intention of letting anything prevent a finish.

Any thoughts?

I have done on long audaxes - my tyre went from fine to dead on LEL2013 - but my road tyres weigh <200g. My 29+ tyres are nearer 1kg. My contingency plan currently is to a tube in and patch up with gorilla tape and hope for the best.

FLV wrote:Following tearing a sidewall on last nights ride (thats the end of specialized tyres for me, I used to get on well with them)

Just wondering if anyone considers taking a lightweight spare tyre on longer ITT's

I generally am reasonably prepared to fix / fettle things on longer ITT's or trips but also I seem to remember seeing someone carrying a spare tyre on one of the HT events and thinking to myself that said person had no intention of letting anything prevent a finish.

Any thoughts?

at the risk of tempting fate...

I use maxxis Exo which have stronger side walls and never let me down yet. the only puncture i can remember recently was from a 4 inch nail which went through the tubeless tape too! i do carry a tyre boot, various zip ties etc. thought about dental floss and a sailors needle?

I normally have a tyre boot, not that it would stick to a tyre with tubeless gunk all over it.

I've used specialized tyres on and off for years and never really had an issue. could just be bad luck. Looking through tyres that are available its upsetting to see prices up at the £45 mark for most.

I run tubeless and carry a couple of tyre boots (made from an old toothpaste tube) plus an inner tube. I've not (yet) had need to use them though there was a horrible sounding "pung" yesterday riding over the boulders set in to the BW coming off Whernside that had me worried for a moment or two. The front tyre has done 4000Kms and the back about 1000km. Front is a Bontrager XR4, the rear is an XR3.

Ripping sidewalls seems to be down to luck (or lack of it) and perhaps the terrain you ride on. I've not done much riding over slate for example and none over flinty chalk both of which can make mincemeat of any tyre if you catch an edge. Gritstone, limestone and granite tend to be more rounded though freshly broken shards can still have sharp edges.

Maybe a CX tyre for those longer trips? Although not ideal it'll probably keep you going, won't be too heavy or pack overly big.

Not a bad idea stu. I was thinking of things like the Highland Trail or Colorado trail where you would be goosed without a way of fixing, or gutted to have to stop.

Back on spesh tyres but this is light for an emergency too
http://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/ftb/mt ... liss-ready

A piece of old tyre sidewall about 25x50mm, a length of dental floss and a needle and some superglue powerflex will fix 90% of sidewall issues on the trail. Glue it closed, sew up then patch on the inside. A bit of inner tube over the outside as back-up maybe, but not needed. The sealant will do the rest. I ride on flinty trails and have had to do this a few times to Spesh 2bliss and Maxxis EXOs. One is still going strong 1000 miles or more after fixing a 1" cut in the sidewall. I'd not bother with a spare tyre, fixes or shops preferably. ITT time may be stuffed though, I suppose it depends how important the time is over the ride experience overall.

Back on spesh tyres but this is light for an emergency too
http://www.specialized.com/gb/gb/ftb/mt ... liss-ready

F that : ) Anywhere that's rocky / sharp enough to have ripped one tyre would make easy work of a 430g 29er tyre I think.

dental floss and a needle

Never been in a position to try this repair do you need a sailmakers palm to push the needle through or can you do it without?

Mariner wrote:dental floss and a needle

Never been in a position to try this repair do you need a sailmakers palm to push the needle through or can you do it without?

Me either! I'd take a curved needle though which would hopefully mean not. But just guessing...

Might be worth making sure the cx tyre fits. In 2011 TD Si (from Cardiff) had an issue and his spare wouldn't fit his wheel. Not sure what the problem was though.

Mariner wrote:dental floss and a needle

Never been in a position to try this repair do you need a sailmakers palm to push the needle through or can you do it without?

I'm sure a curved needle would be easier but a reasonable-sized std one is all I've used. Pinch it tight and it goes through easily enough. If it were cold I guess pushing it with a coin or multi-tool would help.

Instead of dental floss I use tub tyre thread available from planetx in a neet velox kit including a large needle. As I'm not likley to humf a spare fat bike tyre with me this provides piece of mind although I've not had to use it yet....

There was a you tube vid doing the rounds recently of a guy repairing a ripped sidewall using thread / superglue and a spare bit of tube without removing the wheel or breaking the tyre bead.

Am i missing something. usually i take a load of tape, superglue and a tube, pour out the stans.

But if you remove the tyre to fix it with a boot or patch. How do you get the bead on to continue to run tubeless?

Cheers

Chris

Justchris wrote: But if you remove the tyre to fix it with a boot or patch. How do you get the bead on to continue to run tubeless?

I think thats the deal with stiching and patching - you do it in situ so no need to break the bead.

I'm sure someones re-seated a bead using a gas canister and a match mind....

I thought you stiched/repaired/patched up the tyre so it would hold your tube in.

so when repairing a cut in the tyre wall do you sew the patch to the tyre or sew the cut together then patch over ?

Just what works for me,

so when repairing a cut in the tyre wall do you sew the patch to the tyre or sew the cut together then patch over ?

I've sew the cut closed and then patch the inside to reduce the pressure on the cut area of sidewall, and so that they continue to work tubeless. Or so that it'll hold a tube. Small nicks can be sorted faster with just powerflex glue and a patch on either side.

But if you remove the tyre to fix it with a boot or patch. How do you get the bead on to continue to run tubeless?

I only use tubeless tyre and rim combos that I'm generally able to re-seat on the trail with a good mini-pump. If it needs airlines etc either the combo isn't a good one or there's a technique to learn : ) It needs a certain technique to re-seat ~2/3 of the of the bead by hand (to close down the gap so that lower air flow can pop the rest into place) but it's not difficult if the tyre is a good TLR type. One side can be done with a tube if needed, the other by hand. Excessive gunk/dirt/fatigue has made this a challenge in the past, you know how finicky tubeless can get. I resorted to Stans-filled tubes in Israel after a few cut fixes meant the dry latex build-up was preventing it seating easily.

I'm sure someones re-seated a bead using a gas canister and a match mind....

That I'd like to watch. From a reasonable distance : )

There's a similar thread on STW - http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic ... ss-tyres-2

FLV wrote: (thats the end of specialized tyres for me, I used to get on well with them)

i wouldn't blame it on specialized entirely i killed a side wall on my Maxis ardent the other day haha

Hang on, i have to say somthing,

I've used specialized tyres on and off for years and never really had an issue.

I remember standing at the bottom of iron keld with a hangover, in the rain, cold, and you with a specialized tyre with the sidewall hanging out...

never learn

close

no way, couldnt have been me, I always learn....