How difficult is it to shift when climbing on more tech/bumpy stuff?

Looking at swapping out my flats back to drops but with bar end shifters (possibly on tri-bars as it has to do off road and on road touring duties and I've been looking at too many ITT bikes ;-) ).

Just worried moving your hands to shift whilst negotiating a lumpy track might be tricky?

Easy on di2 ;-)

I was a little sceptical at first but it's never caused me any real problems ... you sort of get a feel for it. Mine are both non-indexed BTW.

On super tech stuff you might need to plan ahead a bit more, and if in doubt change early.

For 99% of stuff though I really like them.

The issue I've run into is getting jabbed in the groin when trying to open a gate.

On a connected note what's the best way to run the cables so they play nice with a dry bag/bar harness?

Plan changes early and they are easy to use. I run my cable under the bar tape. The front can use a standard cable, but you need a tandem cable for extra length on the rear.

As an alternative I run trigger shifters on my drops. You need to remove some material to increase the internal diameter of the collars but it's an easy job. Works a treat and it's groin safe!

I find it really easy, does need a bit of planning though. A couple of things help. A wide-ratio rear block so that 1-2 clicks hits the gear I need rather than 3-4 on a closer ratio road block, and having a more relaxed riding position on the bike that means you aren't 'falling forward' onto the bar if you take your hands off. It makes moving a hand to shift a lot easier over bumps and it's generally comfier for repeated days anyway.
For cables, I cross the cables under the DT eg so that the rear shifter uses the left-side cable stop. The cables can be flexed and 'flattened' around the head tube by a bar bag quite happily then. I had a bike made with head tube mounted cable stops and found that was a problem for bar bags, cables tended to get bent too close to the stops and got damaged.

My Fargo came with the cables exiting at the drop and was a faff for luggage. I've now got all the cables under the tape and they still work fine. I just used a normal MTB cable set which reached the back Ok.

Just found a photo of my setup.

Flail around trying to grab one of the shifters whilst hanging on with one hand. Or change gear with your knees / thighs - possible for front downshifts with only minor bruising and skin loss....

I've never really had a problem with mine.

Richpips wrote:On super tech stuff you might need to plan ahead a bit more, and if in doubt change early.

For 99% of stuff though I really like them.

Exactly what I have found, if you know the trails you'll be fine.
On Tuesday evening riding trails I've not ridden before I only had a could of problems forcing a dab or two