So, as I've already mentioned I'm always looking for more comfort, less weight. My dad mentioned suspension bushings on a car as something I could try and use for an idea. How about putting a rubber bush between the bar-stem clamping area bit thing? Using some very crap 22.2mm handlebars and a very crap 31.8mm stem I've made a VERY rough prototype in about 10 minutes:
There is no glues or epoxy just 2 bits of rubber mat wrapped around the bars then clamped in the stem. I expected to be able to easily twist the bars in the stem but it won't budge, even with a barend on for extra leverage.
What I'm thinking is to use 31.8mm bars in one of these newfangled 35mm clamp stems with a very small amount of rubber bonded to the bars. Worth trying or a complete no-hoper?

Ben98 wrote: What I'm thinking is to use 31.8mm bars in one of these newfangled 35mm clamp stems with a very small amount of rubber bonded to the bars. Worth trying or a complete no-hoper?

I would expect not a lot, as if you have clamped them up with an even force all the way round (so the bars don't twist), then you haven't left anywhere to facilitate movement (equal and opposite forces, and they're restrained).
If they do allow some bounce, then I'd expect the bars to spin around in the stem. I might be wrong though, depends on the density/characteristics of your rubber - you could then go about "tuning" that (softer or harder etc.)


Best off doing it in the stem - but then I found even with a fairly well clampe dup adjustable height stem it was too twisty/wobbly for my liking..leaving basically tyre, forks and grips as places to work as dampers - or indeed the handlebar itself (i.e. tune the bars accordingly, flexy or stiff bars as you prefer etc.)

I like your thinking ... however, rubber bushes will only dampen vibration (which probably doesn't account for much loss of comfort) and as Zippy says, they'll only do that if they can move. If you've got silicone / foam grips fitted then any vibration has already been taken care of.

If you're looking for more comfort / less weight, then 24.5mm bars will likely aid both.

Along with what the others said, I'd also keep a keen eye on the bolts comming loose. Even small movement at the clamp will allow the bolts to 'walk' out.

Nothing wrong with trying stuff out though

FLV wrote:

I remember them, they were sh*te!

Has that been modified for a headset use? Coooool.

I still have mine.

I have to say I don't think this is a good idea at all. Either it will be clamped up so tight you cant move the bars (which sounds like it is) which means that there will be so little give in the rubber as to be undetectable. (you'll get more deflection from the tread on a racing tyre - the tread not the carcass)

Or, if there is enough slack to allow the rubber to flex then the bars will spin, move or otherwise fail to do their primary job which is to allow you to maintain control of the bikes direction. That doesn't tend to end well in my experience.

get a digital tyre pressure gauge and let 1 psi out, i think it will give you more cushioning. Or bars with a narrower clamp size (what ever it was before 31.8) would allow the bars to flex a little but in a controlled and intentional way. Or wider rims to allow the same tyres run wider and at lower pressure. Or gloves with a gel pad which would should have more cushioning than rubber under almost total compression

I'm all for experimenting but...

It's almost like we've not come up with a way to alleviate this issue of forces being transmitted to your hands.

Oh now wait, we have.

It's called suspension.

Or bigger tyres.

Or better grips.

Or gloves.

GregMay wrote:It's almost like we've not come up with a way to alleviate this issue of forces being transmitted to your hands.

Oh now wait, we have.

It's called suspension.

Or bigger tyres.

Or better grips.

Or gloves.

I'm trying to be innovative and creative, can't blame me for trying!

Ben98 wrote:
I'm trying to be innovative and creative, can't blame me for trying!

No blame for trying Ben. keep on thinking and planning. Imagination is always good


Just that it doesn't always result in workable solutions...

ianfitz wrote: Just that it doesn't always result in workable solutions...

This I am well aware of!
I think with some perseverance, this idea may be made to work, though I think I'll have to bond the rubber to the bar and then bond a metal ring around the rubber as per a suspension bushing. This would likely involve a custom made stem aswell so I'd best get handy with metal and carbon fibre!

This would likely involve a custom made stem aswell so I'd best get handy with metal and carbon fibre!

It's not a career move I'd recommend

I too think that it could be made to 'work' without resulting in an untimely death but the positve effects would be tiny and as already said, completely outshone by dropping a couple of psi from your tyres. However, if you do persevere, you may end up with a job as bike component designer ... as they seem to search for solutions to problems which don't exist in anyones mind but their own

Whilst I understand that bigger tires run at lower pressures offer more comfort, they also increase rolling resistance. When i underinflated my tires after a puncture on the Capital Trail, it felt like wading through treacle when compared to my usual 30-40psi range (2.25 tires on flows). Also, larger tires weigh more where saving weight is most important, so if by adding a few grams here and there I can emulate that comfort without increasing rolling resistance and rotating weight, I see that as a worthy thing to do!

30-40psi

Good grief
I run my 2.2 tyres at something around 18psi on 35mm rims. Perhaps I should pump them up a bit so I can ride a bit faster

Ian wrote:

30-40psi

Good grief
I run my 2.2 tyres at something around 18psi on 35mm rims. Perhaps I should pump them up a bit so I can ride a bit faster

I used to run 2.4 Xkings at 60psi, 30 is low enough!
Tbh I didn't notice the lower pressures when riding offroad, but on tracks and roads it just felt sluggish and like I rolled much slower down shallow smooth descents.

Ben98 wrote:Whilst I understand that bigger tires run at lower pressures offer more comfort, they also increase rolling resistance.

Not necessarily the case. Theres some interesting science (mainly about road tyres by potentially transferable) and actually rolling resistance is measured on smooth surfaces. Which we don't ride on much...

I'd rather ride a crest and a 2.35 ikon (which are huge) than a flow with a 2.2. It's very similar weight wise and will give you far more compliance than your bushings...

If you can get LB 35mm rims you'll be able to run much much lower pressures at the same rim weight as a crest/arch. Think mine are c. 390g each

Ahh the old "make it harder so it rolls better" idea of rolling resistance.

Fine on a track - not quite the same on a MTB where you have continual changes on micro topography (rocks) that act as braking points for your tyres.

look at the spank vibrocore bars.

alloy bar with a foam filled core to damp high frequency vibrations.

http://spank-ind.com/products/handlebar ... rocore-bar

jam bo wrote:look at the spank vibrocore bars.

alloy bar with a foam filled core to damp high frequency vibrations.

http://spank-ind.com/products/handlebar ... rocore-bar

I have been, I think the idea is great! The problem is that they don't do a swept back bar and only in aluminium, so after some experimenting I think I'm going to try filling my On One OG bars with expanding foam

If you want to cancel out high frequency vibration try adding heavy(ish) weights to the ends of the bars.

s8tannorm wrote:If you want to cancel out high frequency vibration try adding heavy(ish) weights to the ends of the bars.

like hands? ;-)

I found that since going tubeless my tyre pressures have dropped gradually. I am now at 22.5 front and 27.5 rear and may go lower yet. The extra comfort afforded by lower pressures leads to less fatigue allowing me to cycle for longer and hence further than if I was cycling faster at higher pressure's. Traction is also improved leading to less spin out on climbs and more control on descents. Give it a go for a few weeks then change back, you will wonder how you ever managed before.

jam bo wrote:

s8tannorm wrote:If you want to cancel out high frequency vibration try adding heavy(ish) weights to the ends of the bars.

like hands? ;-)

Nope!

Weighted bar plugs worked a treat on my Ducatis.

Im also in the camp of lower pressures. Ive found around 20 Front and 25 rear about right for me (Thats on a 2.25 x29 Nobby Nic)
Found it easier to go lower pressure when tubeless