http://www.merlincycles.com/stans-notub ... 74867.html
Why are they so cheap?

They are white...

Nothing ... they are an 'old' model and white. If you're happy then they're well worth the money. I think CRC have the same in black for thirty odd ponds a rim.

I'm always very wary about rims with no eyelets.

Zippy wrote:I'm always very wary about rims with no eyelets.

Stans specify a much lower max spoke tension than many rims. Its something decent wheel builders will know or check. Or if you're building yourself you just need to be aware.

I've done thousands of miles on arch's, never a problem with the rim.

FLV wrote:

Zippy wrote:I'm always very wary about rims with no eyelets.

Stans specify a much lower max spoke tension than many rims. Its something decent wheel builders will know or check. Or if you're building yourself you just need to be aware.

I've done thousands of miles on arch's, never a problem with the rim.

Just being devils advocate here - but how do you accurately measure the tension of your spokes? I can't flex them sideways and go "ooh, that feels like 14N", and bear in mind the use of a torque wrench (which is used to limit tension when doing bolts up so it's around design limits) isn't particularly accurate and can dramatically alter depending on whether the thread is greased or not - so suspect that's not a practical way either.

This of course highlights the benefits of an experienced decent wheelbuilder etc.

Zippy wrote:

FLV wrote:

Zippy wrote:I'm always very wary about rims with no eyelets.

Stans specify a much lower max spoke tension than many rims. Its something decent wheel builders will know or check. Or if you're building yourself you just need to be aware.

I've done thousands of miles on arch's, never a problem with the rim.

Just being devils advocate here - but how do you accurately measure the tension of your spokes? I can't flex them sideways and go "ooh, that feels like 14N", and bear in mind the use of a torque wrench (which is used to limit tension when doing bolts up so it's around design limits) isn't particularly accurate and can dramatically alter depending on whether the thread is greased or not - so suspect that's not a practical way either.

This of course highlights the benefits of an experienced decent wheelbuilder etc.

Budget
http://www.parktool.com/product/spoke-t ... meter-tm-1

Pricy
http://www.dtswiss.com/Accessories/Proline-Tools

or experience.

also, have a read.

http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/support/tensiometers/

edit.
The summary of that article for me is.... use experience and dont tension stans as much

Stan's do eyeletted rims for OEM applications as presumably people assume eyelets are better and big factories throw wheels together with power tools!

johnnystorm wrote:Stan's do eyeletted rims for OEM applications as presumably people assume eyelets are better and big factories throw wheels together with power tools!

I've had first hand experience of fractures appearing on my bonty rim that didn't have eyelets....with an eyelet I'm fairly confident that wouldn't have happened. The result was that I had wobbly wheels that you can't true! (Didn't see fractures originally as they were under a layer of filth, discovered fractures upon trying to true wheel and having to inspect closer after it wasn't working!..)

£48 per rim doesn't look cheap at all...

I've got three sets of Stan's crests, two built by superstar(!) And no explosions yet!

Dainiusd wrote:£48 per rim doesn't look cheap at all...

Look again, £48 per PAIR

Oh I need a day off from work..