Anybody running a clutch mech with road shifters. I 've been running a 9 speed durace shifter with an XTR mech no problem on a Raceface thick thin ring. Just tried a XT clutch mech 10 speed in an attempt at super secure running and its not happening.
Seems to need loads more cable pull, looks way more than the spacer bodges seen for SRAM shifters. Anyone got experiences, or is it bar end shifter time. Road shifters are crazy money.
As far as I know, the only way to run a clutch mech with drop shifters is to use SRAM, which is horrid, but its absaloutly a no go with shimano I'm afraid :/
9 and 10 speed mtb rear mechs are different pull ratios. (9 speed = 2:1, 10 speed=something different, 1.7 or variable or something or the other).
9 and 10 speed rear mechs are the same ratio, i've got a 10 speed road rear mech running 9 speed mtb shifter (all 2:1 ratio).
As the clutch mechs are all MTB 10 speed, short answer is no, not directly. You can do it with a spacer to adapt the ratios, I've posted about it sometime ago, let me dig it up.
Ian wrote:
Are the new 10sp mechs a different pull to the old 9sp then?
As far as i can tell, all the 10 speed clutch mech's have a very different pull to all the 9 speed (or 10 speed) drop bar levers out there
The only cross compatability i can find out there is being able to use shimano 8/9 speed rear mechs with campag 10/11 speed shifters, but i am yet to try it out (should hopefully have some of the above veloce shifters fitted to my 9 speed sora cross bike before the gravel race though)
Was about to go huh, had a google and finally worked out what you meant.
Here's a quote that explained it clearly to me: Road 9 and 10 are interchangable, MTB 9 and 10 aren't
Shimano have used 2:1 ratio on all mechs since moses was a pup, now they've decided it's been far to easy and to make it interesting 10 speed MTB mechs run a cable pull that varies from 1.8 to 1 to 1.9 to 1 from the bottom to the top of the block.
So essentially shimano is all pretty much mix and match across it's range apart from 10 speed MTB
I would also like to add that shimano shadow mechs (clutch or clutchless) have a large flaw in my eyes compared to "normal" mechs they produce. The main pivot wears considerably more easily/quickly than the "normal" mech and introduces larger sideways tolerances that you don't want.
Happy engineering! I think someone (hint hint FLV) needs to draw up the pivot points so we can work out the lever arms and hence where to put the resultant pulling point required is to get the shifters to work. Trial and error might be easier though, I reckon a few shims on the other side of the bolt would work.