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Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 1:51 pm
by Boab
Got a hankering to read some mountaineering books. I've read all of Joe Simpson's stuff, done all the Bonnigton and Messner expedition reports from the 70's, Into Thin Air, A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush etc.
Anyone got any recommendations...?
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 1:57 pm
by PaulE
Seven summits by Steve Bell is a good collection of stories.
The white spider
Bicycles up Kilimanjaro
If you're near Sheffield, then I could lend you the first two?
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 2:03 pm
by voodoo_simon
Andy Caves books were good from memory
Andy Kirkpatrick too
Gwen Moffats Space below my feet
Eric Jones’ book was good (climber/base jumper etc)
Shackleton by Fiennes was superb, that will keep the winter blues at bay! I listened to it on Spotify, brilliant
Edit Joe Brown The hard years
Alison Hargreaves A hard days summer
Jon Krackear Into thin air (it’s a long time since reading it, so can’t remember much!)
I’ve started on Walter Bonnattis book but didn’t get too far, think I was distracted reading it. Will have another go
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 2:12 pm
by Boab
PaulE wrote: ↑Thu Nov 07, 2024 1:57 pm
Seven summits by Steve Bell is a good collection of stories.
The white spider
Bicycles up Kilimanjaro
If you're near Sheffield, then I could lend you the first two?
Turns out I read a Seven Summits book back in the early Nineties, can't remember who wrote it though. The White Spider is on my list, although I've read Joe Simpson's North Face of the Eiger book. Have read Bicycles up Kilimanjaro.
voodoo_simon wrote: ↑Thu Nov 07, 2024 2:03 pm
Andy Caves books were good from memory
Andy Kirkpatrick too
Gwen Moffats Space below my feet
Eric Jones’ book was good (climber/base jumper etc)
Shackleton by Fiennes was superb, that will keep the winter blues at bay! I listened to it on Spotify, brilliant
Edit Joe Brown The hard years
Alison Hargreaves A hard days summer
Jon Krackear Into thin air (it’s a long time since reading it, so can’t remember much!)
I’ve started on Walter Bonnattis book but didn’t get too far, think I was distracted reading it. Will have another go
I will check some of those out.
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 2:13 pm
by Chicken Legs
The Burgess Book of Lies - Adrian & Alan Burgess
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 3:10 pm
by jameso
The White Spider is quite a read.
Bonatti's Mountains of My Life is good, I thought. I really enjoyed Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage by Herman Buhl and On Thin Ice by Mick Fowler. Conquistadors of The Useless by Lionel Thierry also quite good.
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 3:11 pm
by whitestone
Classic stuff:
The White Spider, Heinrich Harrer
Savage Arena, Joe Tasker
Total Alpinism, Rene Desmaison
50 Years of Alpinism, Ricardo Cassin
On The Heights, Walter Bonatti
More modern, humour
One Man's Mountains, Tom Patey
Rope Boy, Dennis Gray
The Totem Pole, Paul Pritchard
Moments of Doubt, Dave Roberts
Thin Air, Greg Child
Modern history/biographies
The Tower, Kelly Cordes
The Villain, Jim Perrin
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 3:24 pm
by whitestone
Chicken Legs wrote: ↑Thu Nov 07, 2024 2:13 pm
The Burgess Book of Lies - Adrian & Alan Burgess
In 1986 I was on a trip to attempt Gasherbrum IV (this is the mountain that dominates the approach to Concordia up the Baltoro glacier and is a few km from K2). We were walking in at the same time as a British attempt on K2 involving the Burgess twins and Alan Rouse (who would sadly die having summited).
Both of our teams had used the same company to make up our outer windsuits which were all-in-one affairs. Unbeknown to us, the seamstresses were more used to dealing with oil bicycle and construction workers and had a policy of removing 2" from self-measured chest measurements and adding 2" to the stomach

Unfortunately for the Burgesses they were genuinely 48" chests with 30" waists. The tight chest wasn't a big problem in itself but it had the side effect of reducing the effective neck to groin distance of the garment so if you stood up straight your voice rose an octave

Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 5:17 pm
by GregMay
Kiss or Kill, Twight.
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 7:28 pm
by MuddyPete
Vertical Pleasure (The Secret Life of a Taxman) - Mick Fowler.
A master of understatement and self-deprecating humour

.
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 7:40 pm
by fatbikephil
Everest the Cruel Way - after reading this, you'll never moan about a bivvy again!
The Shinning Mountain - Joe Tasker and Pete Boardman's ascent of changabang, which was quite a feat in those days
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 9:14 pm
by Alpinum
Ascent of Rum Doodle.
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 9:48 pm
by redefined_cycles
The Death Zone. Brilliant book.
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 9:52 pm
by Alpinum
- Winter 8000: Climbing the World's Highest Mountains in the Coldest Season by Bernadette McDonald
- Freedom Climbers by Bernadette Macdonald
- Mountains of the Mind by Robert Macfarlane
- The Seven Mountain-Travel Books by H.W. Tilman
- The Tower by Kelly Cordes
- Behind Everest: Ruth Mallory's Story - First British Expeditions by Kate Nicholson
- Starlight and Storm: The Conquest of the Great North Faces of the Alps by Gaston Rebuffat
Since Into thin Air was mentioned, this one for good balance:
- The Climb by Boukreev Anatoli and G. Weston DeWalt
One of the most amazing (set of) books on mountaineering:
- Everest. From Reconnaissance to Summit, 1921 to 1953 by Peter Gillman.
I got the set as a present and likely wouldn't have bought it, but in hindsight I highly recommend it to interested readership. A must have in an alpinists library.
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Thu Nov 07, 2024 10:35 pm
by Al
+1 for Andy Kirkpatrick's psycho vertical
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Fri Nov 08, 2024 7:33 pm
by Mart
One man’s mountains is a favourite of mine
Also Nanga Parbat pilgrimage - Herman Buhl was good.
Also ‘Mountaineering in Scotland and Undiscovered Scotland’ by WH Murray
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Sat Nov 09, 2024 10:11 am
by Charliecres
Menlove and The Villain by Jim Perrin were both good, I thought
Re: Mountaineering books
Posted: Sat Nov 09, 2024 11:06 am
by Boab
Thanks all! Certainly a decent list to start investigating purchases from.