Better Slate Than Never 2
Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2024 3:36 pm
Three years ago I decided to tour the North Wales slate quarries, investigating the industrial remains and trying to piece together a bit of the social history ( https://bearbonesbikepacking.co.uk/php ... in#p265656). I managed to visit 30 quarries on the western side of the slate field but lack of time meant that I missed all of the Blaenau Ffestiniog area and some other places. Difficult to plan japes at the moment due to an impending family event but a short-notice temporary pass was issued so time for another bash at it! This time Lu / FrogAtTheFarriers misguidely agreed to come along to keep me on the straight and narrow; also, he stops me losing my credit card and phone and I stop him losing his glasses and gloves
.
This won’t be quite as epic as Sean and Mike’s recent Scottish extravaganza, but then again myself and Lu are about twice their age and we also have to keep our café/pub count as high as we can!
We had no fixed plan but I drafted out a possible route which tried to visit the Blaenau area quarries, although it included many of “Slate 1”’s western ones on our way south across the Llyn peninsula before we looped back north to Blaenau.
Anyway, here we go, and I know sedimentary rock worship is possibly not everyone’s cup of tea but there’s the odd bit of scenery to keep the Normals happy as well…
As mentioned, due to direct Bangor trains no longer stopping at Milton Keynes I had to travel 40 miles in the wrong direction and back, before getting to Chester where Lu joined me having ridden from Wrexham. Arriving at Bangor at about 18.30 we wasted no time heading off towards Caernarfon down NCN Route 8, with a short stop at Y Felinheli where all of the Dinorwig slate quarry’s product was transhipped onto boats for transporting around the world.

We enjoyed a pint in the pub by Caernarfon harbour while we considered our overnight options, our thinking processes not helped by one of those random guitar players plinking away on the harbour wall. We decided to head off down the coast and see what happened, and our spot radars were duly activated. First stop was a football pitch which was flat but exposed, next was an official farm campsite, and finally a rough patch next to the road which already had some camper vans in residence. Things were getting a bit desperate so we turned our radar dials up to maximum and almost immediately spotted a clump of trees in a field with a building in the middle of them. Closer inspection showed that it was a disused chapel with an atmospheric graveyard, dating back to the 13th century. Inside it was like stepping back hundreds of years, with whitewashed walls and superb rough wooden pews and furniture including some fascinating “family boxes”. Having paid our respects we carefully installed ourselves, agreeing that it was probably one of the most attractive bivvy spots we’d ever encountered.


Our indoor kipping arrangements turned out to be a stroke of luck because it bucketed down with rain overnight and the layby would have been interesting to say the least. We brewed up some morning porridge and tea in the font (joking…), as we listened to the cheeping birds and dripping rain. An amazing little spot. The good news was being able to pack up in the dry, the bad news was getting pretty damp riding in the rain until we found a garden centre which happened to offer a very welcome cooked second breakfast.

Despite the rain continuing to put a damper on things, progress was spurred by the prospect of another café a few miles further on in the quarry settlement of Fron. To get there we followed a few quiet lanes and past our first quarries – Alexandra (1), Moel Tryfan (2), Braich (3), and Fron (4). I knew from last time that the menu, and indeed the place, would be amusingly idiosyncratic and so it proved to be. It’s a shop, café and community centre rolled into one, nobody else was there and the volunteer running it was an old codger pushing his mobility chair. He could just about manage a pot of tea, and although there was no cake at the moment he had a few biscuits to offer. However the views of the Nantlle Ridge were superb and the guy was very friendly and knowledgeable about the quarries, seemingly having all the time in the world to chat about them. The best bit for me was when he finally brought our tea and biscuits in on his mobility chair in lieu of a trolley!


Next port of call was one of my favourite quarries – Pen-yr-Orsedd (5) with its sole remaining “Blondin” hoist which lifted slate 400’ up from the quarry floor to the processing sheds. The World Heritage Site people really need to crack on and refurbish this unique artefact before it finally collapses. Plenty of other machinery gently fading into obscurity as well.




An oil can well past its ability to maintain the equipment

And of course Nature gradually reclaiming the wilderness

Close by is Dorothea Quarry (6) with its 300’ deep lake in the old workings, now a well-known diving site. Amazingly the rain has stopped.

Derelict Talysarn Hall is an incredible place, festooned with greenery, trees growing through the walls, and generally looking like something out of Lord Of The Rings.


During our wanderings we passed many other disused quarries including Pen-y-Bryn (7), Gallt-y-Fedw (8), Blaen-y-Cae (9), and Tal-y-Sarn (10). With the sun peeking out, the valley leads east past the brooding Nantlle Ridge and over to Rhyd Ddu where a well-earned pint was consumed in the Cwellyn Arms. Even in July the log fire was welcome…


Sadly the Dutch café is now closed, probably best for us as we still had a tough climb over into Cwm Pennant, on the way passing the little-known quarry at Llyn-y-Gader (12) where in a rare occurrence some of the old tramway rails are still in place. Snowdon is no match for our Lu…


The route up through Beddgelert forest sported a profusion of foxgloves…

… then it was over the ridge into peaceful Cwm Pennant, where one of the remotest quarries is to be found – Prince Of Wales (13). The drop down through the quarry is littered with slippery slate tips and inclines and I had my only OTB of the trip when my front wheel hit a hidden peat bog. At least the filth broke my fall and not my wrists.

Despite only yielding a few hundred tons of slate, the company built a very long narrow-gauge railway from the harbour at Porthmadog which only lasted a few years and was hardly worth the enormous engineering challenge. We had hoped to follow it all the way down to the Gorseddau Quarry but after a few miles things just got a bit too much with bridgeless streams and numerous stiles so we dropped down into the valley and followed the attractive maze of lanes down to the coast at Criccieth.

My slight disappointment about missing the elusive Gorseddau Quarry (third time lucky?!) was somewhat mollified by partaking of the wares from the Criccieth chip shop, which we ate sitting at the tables in the town square to the slightly baffled looks from a few locals. As darkness closed in we cranked up the radars again feeling a little apprehensive about the possibilities so close to the town. First port of call was the golf-course on the cliffs, which looked a good bet but was unfortunately blocked by a locked gate. Another option was a rather public corner of the carpark, which we saved for emergency use. Just before we were about to claim that as our last-ditch effort, I noticed a couple of seats on top of a grassy mound on the seafront. This hadn’t even registered up to now because it was so obviously exposed, however I nipped up onto it and discovered that one side was actually protected by some low gorse bushes which at least blocked the view from all the hotel windows across the road and cast a dark shadow over a small area of the grass. A real hidden-in-plain-sight classic really, so we jumped at the chance. It really was very public, with a good view of the beach and the castle!


This won’t be quite as epic as Sean and Mike’s recent Scottish extravaganza, but then again myself and Lu are about twice their age and we also have to keep our café/pub count as high as we can!
We had no fixed plan but I drafted out a possible route which tried to visit the Blaenau area quarries, although it included many of “Slate 1”’s western ones on our way south across the Llyn peninsula before we looped back north to Blaenau.
Anyway, here we go, and I know sedimentary rock worship is possibly not everyone’s cup of tea but there’s the odd bit of scenery to keep the Normals happy as well…
As mentioned, due to direct Bangor trains no longer stopping at Milton Keynes I had to travel 40 miles in the wrong direction and back, before getting to Chester where Lu joined me having ridden from Wrexham. Arriving at Bangor at about 18.30 we wasted no time heading off towards Caernarfon down NCN Route 8, with a short stop at Y Felinheli where all of the Dinorwig slate quarry’s product was transhipped onto boats for transporting around the world.

We enjoyed a pint in the pub by Caernarfon harbour while we considered our overnight options, our thinking processes not helped by one of those random guitar players plinking away on the harbour wall. We decided to head off down the coast and see what happened, and our spot radars were duly activated. First stop was a football pitch which was flat but exposed, next was an official farm campsite, and finally a rough patch next to the road which already had some camper vans in residence. Things were getting a bit desperate so we turned our radar dials up to maximum and almost immediately spotted a clump of trees in a field with a building in the middle of them. Closer inspection showed that it was a disused chapel with an atmospheric graveyard, dating back to the 13th century. Inside it was like stepping back hundreds of years, with whitewashed walls and superb rough wooden pews and furniture including some fascinating “family boxes”. Having paid our respects we carefully installed ourselves, agreeing that it was probably one of the most attractive bivvy spots we’d ever encountered.


Our indoor kipping arrangements turned out to be a stroke of luck because it bucketed down with rain overnight and the layby would have been interesting to say the least. We brewed up some morning porridge and tea in the font (joking…), as we listened to the cheeping birds and dripping rain. An amazing little spot. The good news was being able to pack up in the dry, the bad news was getting pretty damp riding in the rain until we found a garden centre which happened to offer a very welcome cooked second breakfast.

Despite the rain continuing to put a damper on things, progress was spurred by the prospect of another café a few miles further on in the quarry settlement of Fron. To get there we followed a few quiet lanes and past our first quarries – Alexandra (1), Moel Tryfan (2), Braich (3), and Fron (4). I knew from last time that the menu, and indeed the place, would be amusingly idiosyncratic and so it proved to be. It’s a shop, café and community centre rolled into one, nobody else was there and the volunteer running it was an old codger pushing his mobility chair. He could just about manage a pot of tea, and although there was no cake at the moment he had a few biscuits to offer. However the views of the Nantlle Ridge were superb and the guy was very friendly and knowledgeable about the quarries, seemingly having all the time in the world to chat about them. The best bit for me was when he finally brought our tea and biscuits in on his mobility chair in lieu of a trolley!


Next port of call was one of my favourite quarries – Pen-yr-Orsedd (5) with its sole remaining “Blondin” hoist which lifted slate 400’ up from the quarry floor to the processing sheds. The World Heritage Site people really need to crack on and refurbish this unique artefact before it finally collapses. Plenty of other machinery gently fading into obscurity as well.




An oil can well past its ability to maintain the equipment

And of course Nature gradually reclaiming the wilderness

Close by is Dorothea Quarry (6) with its 300’ deep lake in the old workings, now a well-known diving site. Amazingly the rain has stopped.

Derelict Talysarn Hall is an incredible place, festooned with greenery, trees growing through the walls, and generally looking like something out of Lord Of The Rings.


During our wanderings we passed many other disused quarries including Pen-y-Bryn (7), Gallt-y-Fedw (8), Blaen-y-Cae (9), and Tal-y-Sarn (10). With the sun peeking out, the valley leads east past the brooding Nantlle Ridge and over to Rhyd Ddu where a well-earned pint was consumed in the Cwellyn Arms. Even in July the log fire was welcome…



Sadly the Dutch café is now closed, probably best for us as we still had a tough climb over into Cwm Pennant, on the way passing the little-known quarry at Llyn-y-Gader (12) where in a rare occurrence some of the old tramway rails are still in place. Snowdon is no match for our Lu…


The route up through Beddgelert forest sported a profusion of foxgloves…

… then it was over the ridge into peaceful Cwm Pennant, where one of the remotest quarries is to be found – Prince Of Wales (13). The drop down through the quarry is littered with slippery slate tips and inclines and I had my only OTB of the trip when my front wheel hit a hidden peat bog. At least the filth broke my fall and not my wrists.

Despite only yielding a few hundred tons of slate, the company built a very long narrow-gauge railway from the harbour at Porthmadog which only lasted a few years and was hardly worth the enormous engineering challenge. We had hoped to follow it all the way down to the Gorseddau Quarry but after a few miles things just got a bit too much with bridgeless streams and numerous stiles so we dropped down into the valley and followed the attractive maze of lanes down to the coast at Criccieth.

My slight disappointment about missing the elusive Gorseddau Quarry (third time lucky?!) was somewhat mollified by partaking of the wares from the Criccieth chip shop, which we ate sitting at the tables in the town square to the slightly baffled looks from a few locals. As darkness closed in we cranked up the radars again feeling a little apprehensive about the possibilities so close to the town. First port of call was the golf-course on the cliffs, which looked a good bet but was unfortunately blocked by a locked gate. Another option was a rather public corner of the carpark, which we saved for emergency use. Just before we were about to claim that as our last-ditch effort, I noticed a couple of seats on top of a grassy mound on the seafront. This hadn’t even registered up to now because it was so obviously exposed, however I nipped up onto it and discovered that one side was actually protected by some low gorse bushes which at least blocked the view from all the hotel windows across the road and cast a dark shadow over a small area of the grass. A real hidden-in-plain-sight classic really, so we jumped at the chance. It really was very public, with a good view of the beach and the castle!
