Sunny Tour of the Cairngorms
Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2022 3:39 pm
Having spent last weekend sat at home watching the sunshine, monumentally frustrated that I couldn't go out (much) due to being duty manager, I was somewhat surprised that the fine weather looked set to last across this weekend. I needed to do a bivvy to tick off March but suddenly local riding plans were dropped in favour of a longer trip around my favourite mountain range. I'd not made it to the Cairngorms at all last year and the previous year only doing the Cairngorms loop group start so it was an obvious choice and would allow an easy trip with zero planning. The SAIS website indicated plenty of snow on high, all of the well consolidated variety, so my next decision was to go with the fat bike, complete with bud 'n lou, and throw in a route variation taking in the Minigaig pass and some snow time. So Friday after work saw my usual scramble to throw bags on bike, stuff into bags, into the car, final check to ensure I'd got everything and then it was up the road to Blair Atholl. A last second addition to the trip planning was a frantic text to friends - "Its sunny, I'm off round the Cairngorms, fancy meeting up near Tomintoul?" - reply = "Yes, see you there!"
After fish and chips at the place in Blair Atholl I set off into the gloaming heading for a spot at the top of Glen Banvie which I'd scoped on a previous trip. Fully 5 miles later I got there just as dusk was merging into dark. Tarp up, into bag, relax after another hectic week - the true value of a Friday bivvy.
After a solid 8 hours sleep I woke to the sun peeping over the hill opposite. It was occluded by some trees for a bit but otherwise this was a perfect spot as I'd been sheltered from the worst of the frost (-3) So I lazed about for a while eating breakfast and drinking coffee, to give the sun a chance to warm things up and burn off the frost from the tarp. 9am saw me heading over to Glen Bruar and the days first hill. (Side note - the partially ruined cottage of Ruichlarie has sadly been flattened. A shame as it would have made a good bothy.)
The Minigaig is a great route well off the usual haunts of both walkers and cyclists. Its' a steep old climb at first but a soaring eagle overhead gave me a chance for a breather. Over the glen side the terrain levels into a wide area of land crossed by several small burns. Large snow patches were everywhere and I was soon in amongst them, linking up these areas of hard and smooth going, weaving round the line of path.
I'd done a similar route in 2015 on the same weekend and there was a lot more snow - this gully was entirely filled back then but today it was a steep drop in.
Snow continued up to the pass summit with only a few gaps and made a normally tough route easy as the trail has faded away along this last section. Then it was away from the pass and its even vaguer descent to Glen Tromie and up onto a line of hills which link to Glen Feshie.
Cairngorm Plateau from the un-named hill at 912m.
The descent was on a vast field of snow. Movement was as much sideways as downwards, justification for the big tyres.
Finally the snow was left behind. I'd considered a further climb and ridge of hills above the Feshie but the big track up to them seems to have been removed and there was no obvious way up. I was also aware of the time - 12pm - and the agreed meeting point with my friends at Loch builg Lodge, some 55 miles distant. So it was off down the Feshie and the familiar route through Inshriach, Rothiemurchus and Glenmore to the Pinemartin Bar for food and a pint. As expected the place was hoaching but most people were just finishing lunch so I could sit in peace, contemplating my onward route. One good thing to come out of pandemic world - covered outside seating for cafes. Who wants to cram into a poky cafe when you can lounge outside without upsetting anybody with your 30 mile body odour....
So onwards through Strathnethy - as fine a place as you can ride a bike through on a warm spring evening. I cracked on just because I could as much as to try to get within a reasonable shout of our meeting time. The crowds disappeared after the green loch and I had the trail to myself. Tomintoul was reached at 5 and I noted the first bikepackers of the trip - two bikes parked outside the pub. I guess if I wasn't meeting with friends I'd have done the same but instead it was off up the long, long road by the river Avon. I passed another pair on gravel bikes, just pitching up by the builg but I left them with a wave as dusk was starting to fall. As had been the case all day, the trail by the loch was pretty dry and a fine end to a long day. I arrived at the ruined lodge to be greeted by my friends and a gin and tonic - how civilised. We sat out chatting and eating (and drinking) listening to the warbling siren of a snipe, what seemed like Scotland's entire population of grouse and the roar of the river geldie in the background, full of melting snow after the warm day. Squeaking brake noises and lights heralded the arrival of the two bikes I'd spied at Tomintoul. They seemed a bit lost looking for bivvy spots so I flashed a light at them to indicate the lodge which had plenty of space. They were from the Midlands doing a tour from Elgin to Montrose and had had a long day, with another to follow the next. Eventually the chill drove us into bags and a cold night followed.
Another perfect pitch as the sun shone straight into my tarp as it crested the horizon. It had fallen to -6 that night and all round was ice - inside and outside the tarp, on my bivvy bag (it was stuck to the tarp!) and on the lochan just down from our spot. Much dampness inside the bivvy bag (condensation that is...) got me out into the strengthening sun for a leisurely breakfast with further chat as everything thawed out and dried off.
Thanks to the clocks changing I departed the 'lodge' at a leisurely 10.30 for the last of the route. I'd thought of crossing the gairn to do the ace single track up the glen and down to Linn of Quoich but it was fairly flowing with snow melt, even after the overnight freeze, and crossing would have been either a frozen foot or wet boot job. Plus my freewheel was making some funny noises so I figured I should take the straight road home. To say it was a change from the last time I was here in September 2020 was a gross understatement. Warm sunshine (already 20 degrees warmer than at first light), a gentle breeze and clear views all around made the lengthy climb a pleasure.
Ben Avon with plenty of snow still. I'd idly contemplated doing this today as the snow fields would have made it fantastic fun. Laziness ultimately stopped this idea but I would like to do it as a day ride at some point.
I bombed the descent and kept to the north side of the Dee, missing out Braemar and a chunk of road riding. The bridge across the Quoich water which was half wrecked the last time I was here has been removed and a new one put in. I wonder how long this will last.... Then it was off down past Linn of Dee and into the wide strath that precedes the fabulous Tilt descent, also a joy after the misery of the Cairngorms Loop group start in 2020. After lunch at White Bridge I cruised across my favourite bit of the land hereabouts. It seemed particularly fine today, the low hills nearby bordering this wide vale, the white tops of the High Cairngorms in the background.
The red bothy nearing completion, just needs the paneling in the interior. The wooden hut to the side has a 4 person thunderbox as well as what looks like more accommodation. I hope its a success given how accessible it is.
That bloody river crossing. Not as wild as it was in September 2020 but high thanks to taking snow melt from the wide land above the Geldie. I failed at the same point as I did the last time but managed to get a foot onto a rock and then across with dry feet. The Bynack and the Seilich were low enough to splash across without a pause. The descent was a joy and my riding seemed to respond to the occasion cleaning everything cleanable (by me!) The only danger was to the many frogs sat sunbathing right in the trail. I'd seen my first one the previous day sat self consciously right in the middle of a large patch of snow, an ideal target for the eagle I'd spied earlier. Every puddle, pond, bog or burn had been alive with them, little beedy eyes poking above the surface, jumping around and wandering blithely across my path leading to much frantic bunny (frog?) hopping.
At the crossing of the Tarf Water. The last narrow stepped climb was dispensed with and then it was a nice leisurely cruise down the glen. What joy it was to pass the turn off to Fealar lodge knowing I didn't have to do it....
Total mileage was 113. The fatty had been a blast and I felt particularly smug having stuck with the biggest, heaviest, most rolling resistant tyres known to cycling, purely to enable riding across a few k of snow. It crossed my mind that this could be a good ITT route as a complement to the full 300k CL. If you missed out Glen More it would be largely re-supply free, adding to the challenge. The Minigaig adds a further nice altitude challenge and it would be particularly fine for it to finish right down the Tilt with no sting in the tail..... Colin??
After fish and chips at the place in Blair Atholl I set off into the gloaming heading for a spot at the top of Glen Banvie which I'd scoped on a previous trip. Fully 5 miles later I got there just as dusk was merging into dark. Tarp up, into bag, relax after another hectic week - the true value of a Friday bivvy.
After a solid 8 hours sleep I woke to the sun peeping over the hill opposite. It was occluded by some trees for a bit but otherwise this was a perfect spot as I'd been sheltered from the worst of the frost (-3) So I lazed about for a while eating breakfast and drinking coffee, to give the sun a chance to warm things up and burn off the frost from the tarp. 9am saw me heading over to Glen Bruar and the days first hill. (Side note - the partially ruined cottage of Ruichlarie has sadly been flattened. A shame as it would have made a good bothy.)
The Minigaig is a great route well off the usual haunts of both walkers and cyclists. Its' a steep old climb at first but a soaring eagle overhead gave me a chance for a breather. Over the glen side the terrain levels into a wide area of land crossed by several small burns. Large snow patches were everywhere and I was soon in amongst them, linking up these areas of hard and smooth going, weaving round the line of path.
I'd done a similar route in 2015 on the same weekend and there was a lot more snow - this gully was entirely filled back then but today it was a steep drop in.
Snow continued up to the pass summit with only a few gaps and made a normally tough route easy as the trail has faded away along this last section. Then it was away from the pass and its even vaguer descent to Glen Tromie and up onto a line of hills which link to Glen Feshie.
Cairngorm Plateau from the un-named hill at 912m.
The descent was on a vast field of snow. Movement was as much sideways as downwards, justification for the big tyres.
Finally the snow was left behind. I'd considered a further climb and ridge of hills above the Feshie but the big track up to them seems to have been removed and there was no obvious way up. I was also aware of the time - 12pm - and the agreed meeting point with my friends at Loch builg Lodge, some 55 miles distant. So it was off down the Feshie and the familiar route through Inshriach, Rothiemurchus and Glenmore to the Pinemartin Bar for food and a pint. As expected the place was hoaching but most people were just finishing lunch so I could sit in peace, contemplating my onward route. One good thing to come out of pandemic world - covered outside seating for cafes. Who wants to cram into a poky cafe when you can lounge outside without upsetting anybody with your 30 mile body odour....
So onwards through Strathnethy - as fine a place as you can ride a bike through on a warm spring evening. I cracked on just because I could as much as to try to get within a reasonable shout of our meeting time. The crowds disappeared after the green loch and I had the trail to myself. Tomintoul was reached at 5 and I noted the first bikepackers of the trip - two bikes parked outside the pub. I guess if I wasn't meeting with friends I'd have done the same but instead it was off up the long, long road by the river Avon. I passed another pair on gravel bikes, just pitching up by the builg but I left them with a wave as dusk was starting to fall. As had been the case all day, the trail by the loch was pretty dry and a fine end to a long day. I arrived at the ruined lodge to be greeted by my friends and a gin and tonic - how civilised. We sat out chatting and eating (and drinking) listening to the warbling siren of a snipe, what seemed like Scotland's entire population of grouse and the roar of the river geldie in the background, full of melting snow after the warm day. Squeaking brake noises and lights heralded the arrival of the two bikes I'd spied at Tomintoul. They seemed a bit lost looking for bivvy spots so I flashed a light at them to indicate the lodge which had plenty of space. They were from the Midlands doing a tour from Elgin to Montrose and had had a long day, with another to follow the next. Eventually the chill drove us into bags and a cold night followed.
Another perfect pitch as the sun shone straight into my tarp as it crested the horizon. It had fallen to -6 that night and all round was ice - inside and outside the tarp, on my bivvy bag (it was stuck to the tarp!) and on the lochan just down from our spot. Much dampness inside the bivvy bag (condensation that is...) got me out into the strengthening sun for a leisurely breakfast with further chat as everything thawed out and dried off.
Thanks to the clocks changing I departed the 'lodge' at a leisurely 10.30 for the last of the route. I'd thought of crossing the gairn to do the ace single track up the glen and down to Linn of Quoich but it was fairly flowing with snow melt, even after the overnight freeze, and crossing would have been either a frozen foot or wet boot job. Plus my freewheel was making some funny noises so I figured I should take the straight road home. To say it was a change from the last time I was here in September 2020 was a gross understatement. Warm sunshine (already 20 degrees warmer than at first light), a gentle breeze and clear views all around made the lengthy climb a pleasure.
Ben Avon with plenty of snow still. I'd idly contemplated doing this today as the snow fields would have made it fantastic fun. Laziness ultimately stopped this idea but I would like to do it as a day ride at some point.
I bombed the descent and kept to the north side of the Dee, missing out Braemar and a chunk of road riding. The bridge across the Quoich water which was half wrecked the last time I was here has been removed and a new one put in. I wonder how long this will last.... Then it was off down past Linn of Dee and into the wide strath that precedes the fabulous Tilt descent, also a joy after the misery of the Cairngorms Loop group start in 2020. After lunch at White Bridge I cruised across my favourite bit of the land hereabouts. It seemed particularly fine today, the low hills nearby bordering this wide vale, the white tops of the High Cairngorms in the background.
The red bothy nearing completion, just needs the paneling in the interior. The wooden hut to the side has a 4 person thunderbox as well as what looks like more accommodation. I hope its a success given how accessible it is.
That bloody river crossing. Not as wild as it was in September 2020 but high thanks to taking snow melt from the wide land above the Geldie. I failed at the same point as I did the last time but managed to get a foot onto a rock and then across with dry feet. The Bynack and the Seilich were low enough to splash across without a pause. The descent was a joy and my riding seemed to respond to the occasion cleaning everything cleanable (by me!) The only danger was to the many frogs sat sunbathing right in the trail. I'd seen my first one the previous day sat self consciously right in the middle of a large patch of snow, an ideal target for the eagle I'd spied earlier. Every puddle, pond, bog or burn had been alive with them, little beedy eyes poking above the surface, jumping around and wandering blithely across my path leading to much frantic bunny (frog?) hopping.
At the crossing of the Tarf Water. The last narrow stepped climb was dispensed with and then it was a nice leisurely cruise down the glen. What joy it was to pass the turn off to Fealar lodge knowing I didn't have to do it....
Total mileage was 113. The fatty had been a blast and I felt particularly smug having stuck with the biggest, heaviest, most rolling resistant tyres known to cycling, purely to enable riding across a few k of snow. It crossed my mind that this could be a good ITT route as a complement to the full 300k CL. If you missed out Glen More it would be largely re-supply free, adding to the challenge. The Minigaig adds a further nice altitude challenge and it would be particularly fine for it to finish right down the Tilt with no sting in the tail..... Colin??
