Just in the process of building up a front wheel with Exposure Revo hub and light and wondering how I'm going to wire-it together as I also have a Sinewave charger. Anyone got a preferred set-up as I'd rather have one wire from the dynamo up the forks?

My dynamo feeds a Kemo with a switch to either lights or USB

Mine goes up the fork leg and a heat shrink joint is stuffed up the fork, assuming you can get a wire up the fork the K-Lite top cap switch is ideal
https://www.kliteusa.net/product-page/top-cap-switch

I’m sure it would be easy to wire up a two way switch and mount it somewhere convenient.

Top tip is be sure to fit a switch.

Ive killed 3 cycle2charges and a iguro d1 mk1 by over heating the internals by riding at high speed with no load (fully charged or cable not plugged in) - thanks to andrew at igaro for taking the time to explain.

So when the replacement igaro mk5 came i was sure to get a switch set up.

My cable comes up from the hub to the igaro , the switch then to the revo.

I've done the same thing a couple of times, Maplins have all the stuff to make a waterproof two way switch, easy to do with a soldering iron and some patience! A good idea is to add in extra male/female connectors so the lights/charger can be removed without disassembling the whole thing.

Ian Barrington made a great blog post about making a switch he called the switchover

Google will find it and the clear instructions - even I managed to make one

i have all the stuff to make the switchover in a jiffybag somewhere.....i was vaguely aware of the issues of not having a switch.

i just never got round to it.

the igaro switch was 17 quid so i just did that this time.

80kph off a pass in the rockies killed my d1 - my own fault for not plugging in the battery pack - the annoying part is that when it dies it hogs all the current so your first sign theres an issue is when your trying to ride in the dark and your light doesnt work.

Thanks - I'll investigate my options

I just keep my light plugged in continually (if I'm not charging something else) ... people soon become tired of telling you your lights on.

Trail-rat wrote:Top tip is be sure to fit a switch.

Ive killed 3 cycle2charges and a iguro d1 mk1 by over heating the internals by riding at high speed with no load (fully charged or cable not plugged in) - thanks to andrew at igaro for taking the time to explain.
So when the replacement igaro mk5 came i was sure to get a switch set up.
My cable comes up from the hub to the igaro , the switch then to the revo.

So all I have to do to get a Mk5 version is ride very fast and blow my Mk1 up then

A switch is a good idea to make sure your light gets full power while riding slowly at night too. Maplin sell a waterproof push button switch that fits in the end of bars, or one of those plastic tubes that high5/nunn tablets come in.

stu - its not about turning the light off

its about stopping current going to the USB converters circuits.

I keep the Revo on all the time with the ewerk. No dramas after all this time even when riding it unloaded. Everything that needs charging gets charged.

stu - its not about turning the light off

its about stopping current going to the USB converters circuits.

With you, so even if the light and usb regulator are wired in parallel from the dynamo, the regulator will still be receiving current even though the light's on? Especially true as speed increases and the lights internal capacitor is fully charged I suppose.

Maybe you need to add a flux capacitor to use up the spare energy?

dlovett wrote:I keep the Revo on all the time with the ewerk. No dramas after all this time even when riding it unloaded. Everything that needs charging gets charged.

Ditto with a usb-werk.

...and I unplug the Revo in the day and still no issues with it being unloaded.

Not sure if it matters, but the USB werk has an internal cache battery, (not sure about the E werk) so technically it will be always charging something even if there's no GPS/phone plugged in?

yep the E-werk has a battery

Infact the MK5 igaro has a stabiliser system built in now - not quite a battery its basically a capacitor as far as i can work out but it was still advised that a switch (assuming i use it) will make my system alot more robust after the issues ive had

i have the system on both my MTB and my touring bike - i assume its the higher speed of the touring bike that does it - decended from 2200m in a short speed of time and hit 80kph for extended periods of time....

then my light stopped working until i removed the wiring for the usb charger.

its never been an issue on my MTB - how ever ill be fitting a switch for completeness as i dont want to kill the thing at a bad time.

Steezysix wrote:Not sure if it matters, but the USB werk has an internal cache battery, (not sure about the E werk) so technically it will be always charging something even if there's no GPS/phone plugged in?

The E-werk didn't used to have have a battery, but they do make one designed for it. It was nicad or nimah and Mine died yeas ago.