June....
I was wanting to visit my folks at the start of a 2 week holiday so figured a bike ride down there was the thing to do. I've played around with a few routes down, west-ish and east-ish so decided to take an option on both - down through the borders and then back via Northumberland. As per, the weather forecast was somewhat variable but stiff north westerlys would largely favour me so off we go. I had thought of using the GB duro route for the first bit but this was a bit out the way and would involve a couple of large dirt road passes. Instead I crossed the bridge and headed through Edinburgh via various cycleways, quiet streets and busy streets. A billion teenagers here to see some second rate fake popstar were successfully avoided....
Beyond the smoke I picked up a fine cycleway south which linked onto a series of backroads to the hills.
Looking back across Midlothian to Embra - quite a nice route all in all. This was taken from the Moorfoot climb on the B709 - a fabulous B road which goes all the way to Langholm. This was my goal - to ride it in it's entirety, something I'd not actually ever done before. It's a cracker as most of it is largely empty of traffic, and the scenery is very pleasant.
Food was bought and eaten at Innerleithen, which now seems to be jam packed with full bounce e-bikes, the riders of which all seemed to scowl at me. I think they are trying too hard... South of Innerleithen is probably the nicest bit, over another largeish climb, then down through forestry and farm land to Tuishielaw. I stopped in the pub for a pint as I was way ahead of my predicted schedule and was already thinking of alternative bivvy spots to a potential tin shed I'd spied on aerial photos. A leisurely trundle up the Ettrick water followed. I spied the shed I'd planned to use but the wind had done for it so just as well I wasn't relying on it! There are a couple more nearby as well as Dryfhead and Greensykes bothies, but after a few sprinkles and plenty of big clouds around, the sky had cleared again so I figured a bivvy was the way to go.
And you pass this - Samye Lings Tibetan Monastery. Watch out Budda, there's a big snake gonna get ya!
Soon after you pass the Eskdalemuir Schoolhouse cafe. I'd checked this out on line as I'd originally figured I'd get Sunday breakfast here, however it was now 6.30pm on Saturday. I knew the cafe would be long shut but the website went on about having a drinks license until 12am... It was a vane hope so imagine my grin when I saw that it was open for a pizza and pasta night! Oh yes, 2 slices and a bottle of ale please!
Some time later, I pedaled off under more dark clouds and an odd spot of rain. I piled into the first bit of woods and turned the bivvy radar full on. A bit of nosing around found a well sheltered spot in the trees. Up with the tarp and in, 148k done. Relaxation followed but there was an odd midge about so I kept in the bivvy bag.
It rained most of the night but eased off as I nibbled some (cold) breakfast and contemplated my next moves.
An OK spot and the sun was shining on me as I left. More pleasant pedaling followed down the Esk to Langholm. This place was a major disappointment however as nothing was open. I'd hoped for a cafe at least but there was nowt. There wasn't even a Co-op which is very odd for such a place. The garage provided a coffee at least and fortunately I had plenty of snacks with me. So off again, along more back roads, my heart and stomach set on a cafe at Greenhead I'd spied on a motorbike trip earlier this year.
Some time later I arrived, only to find it was also shut on a Sunday!! Fortunately the village hall next door had a farmers market on with tea and coffee.
The wall. There was actually a bit of cycleway up by the road which is impressive. Soon after I left this to drop into Haltwhistle where (thank Hadrian) there was a fab little cafe on the High street. Fried food and tea followed then it was more NCN to Alston. This was (mostly) good but typical NCN - lots of good route but with odd crap bits that spoiled it somewhat.

This viaduct was a belter but someone had extended there garden over the old line beyond it so you had to scramble down some steps and up a steep hill to the main road. Along this for a bit then a steep descent back to 100 yards from the viaduct... Hey ho. Further frustrations came in the form of yet another random puncture - no thorn or glass or nails, just some unknown spike jabbing into the tyre and a spray of sealant. Despite a small hole it wouldn't seal so I had to ram a plug in, which enlarged the hole so the plug didn't, so I had to ram another one in, which didn't seal, etc etc.
More gravelling followed and a nice back road to Alston, then it was up the fearsome climb over to Yad Moss, reminiscing over many ski escapades here in my youth.
Looking down Teesdale and contemplating nigh on 13 miles of tailwind assisted descent.
One last heave out of Teasdale and then another 10 mile descent to West Auckland and a short hop to Mum and Dad's from there, 167k done.
After a couple of days of hard labour at Mum and Dads, I came home, but in the face of another iffy forecast and the opportunity of a cheap train ticket home I took the easy option. Azuma trains bike spaces are ****
I fought my way out of Embra and finally contemplated the fair kingdom of Fife....
