What you done t' your bike today

[BigdummySteve]

Packed it then thought I really should sort the gently offensive rear brake out, definitely buying another hope caliper for back end. Maintenance wise I’m in a recovery phase, just riding in the new stuff before WRT and Spain, never pays to do big ride until dust has settled on the spanner’s

[redefined_cycles]

Swapped out the BB. Never had one last for over 5700 miles with life still left in it (but I suppose I've never used Dura Ace) after around 15 (alot of steep road) Everest ascents. Must get a proper press and chuck the bidged home made one away!!

Then started getting the new Elite bottle cage adaptor thingamijig attached to under of downtube. After much "measuring twice, cutting once" I finally got it on. But allen bolt, too short for my Specialized Zee cage and wouldn't reach the nut inside the
adaptorss. Checked another set of alloy bolts but sl8ghtly too long so risked going through and potentially screwing into the carbon at the other end...

Then remembered I had some Ti (thats what they say) bolts hidden away with an extra wide head. Out to the messy mancave to go fetch set of torx wrenches and on they went...

Trouble is, even afyer getting cage as low as was possible and having measured for my smallest bottle prior. Cos it sticks out so much (the adaptor and hence the cage) its an interference fit!



Darn...

Anyone got a 21oz camelbak bottle that they can measure up for me (to the top of neck aswell as to the end of the nipple)...

[ScotRoutes]

I'd not be too fussed about the type of bottle, you'll not be drinking from it. Decant the contents into an empty bottle before drinking.

[redefined_cycles]

Thanks Colin. Yeah, fair point. I'm thinking a camelbak 610ml bottle should just about squeeze in there. Will take a look at the shops today...

[redefined_cycles]

Put a bottle. On the bike. Then took a pic and thanks to Colin/ScotRoutes managed to smack on here without resorting to complex clicking into desktop versions of Flickr!.. Cheque please

[middleagedmadness]

Put a 2.6 (instead of the 2.8)on the back of the longitude to try and help stop the chain cleaning mud of the tyre ,trued the wheel prior to this and repacked the front hub

[redefined_cycles]

So.. got some shiny new tubeless tyres (gp5000 roadie thigs and a first by Conti as they previously didnt like tubeless or summat). Front went on nicely and didnt need to thicken the rim tape...



Went up lively and didn't need any of that shakin rubbish that we would do back in the day... Still sitting pretty at 68psi aftwr a few hours since being tubelessed/mounted



Everything was looking good and I aptly gave the lads a well deserved review on the teletext (telegram actually). Didn't once yearn for bigDummySteves fireextiguisher version of my water bottle inflstor thingy...

Next came the rear tyre. Went oj nicely and not too tight (which I know will be a pain to hold pressure once dropped but am happy with the compromise of being able to remove the tyre easily midride to insert a tube)... Even at 19 psi though the tyres held their pressure on the loose front (inner channel) rim

Cut a long story short. I wasnt wanting to take the easy (but mentally hard as it involved bring ing in the jig and cutting down some rim tape to correct width) option so went along and ended up at this.



In the vain hope that after holding the pressure with the air multiplier thingy, upon removal and addition of the valve core, it might not suddenly bwcome flat. Off course it was a dumb idea and here we are...

Ready for the tedious journey of removing package tape and then rim tape and valve and then adding extra layered rim tape...

[ScotRoutes]

What is "extra layered rim tape"?

[redefined_cycles]

What is "extra layered rim tape"?

Meaning. Putting extra layers of the tubeless rim tape. To thicken up the rim channel. It allows the ryre to seat slightlly tighter and ensure a good seal (IME)...

[ScotRoutes]

Ah. OK. I've never had that issue. I thought you'd found some new tech I hadn't heard of

I always use tape a few mm wider than the internal rim width so that there is only ever a bead/tape interface, never bead/rim.

[redefined_cycles]

All sorted... 2 extra layers of tape added to make a tighter fit (yes, slightly overlapped onto the bead as much as the thickness of the cut tape allowed). Thanksfully didn't have to remove old tape and it all came together nicely and easily... the last hour or so in pics...


My trusty tape cut to width. courtesy of TheTwistedCog bike shop York.saved a few pennies over Stans.



2 lovely extra layers added and the compulsory patch (previous same rim and the valve went straight through after hitting a pot hole at the right angl/spot) then burnt through fir the hole and valve back in



aaand up it goes. no need for air multiplier bodgeup hack... Finally

[dlovett]

Rewired the rear B&M dynamo light on the Camino as the cable head somehow developed a fault and taken the Vir Fortis for some DH action at QECP.

[Lazarus]

fitted a new hope BB
stripped and lubed my cup and cone XT hubs - they looked fine which is amazing as it is only the second regrease in ten years and they are on my winter SS bike.
Made sure the FS was all spick and span and ready* , after the winter rest, for some proper MTB in the lakes this weekend.
* brakes worked without rubbing suspension still fine.

[redefined_cycles]

Right knee been play8ng up and feeling a bit notchy since the ride to london for Aprils BAM. Been work8ng to get the bike ready for this weekends charity ride (same ride to london but all in one go with a bit of friendly competition).

New tyres (note: UK spelling), BB (which lasted over 5700 miles and over 15 Everests over the course of the miles, I'll have you know ) and chain dipped in molten speed wax...

Pedals were feeling a bit lile the bearings are on way out but didnt bother me too much. Until todays test ride which gave me the same twitch in R knee. Thought maybe the worn (so not perfectly rotating I suppose) pedal on the right side might be contributing. So came home and duely serviced the heavier (but more reliable) m540 pedals on the mtb. Were a bit loose bearings but tightened em up, regreased both by purging at least 3 times each and now it feels like a new set of pedals with no play whatsoever...

Thankgod for Shimano

[BigdummySteve]

Pedals for me too my lovely Crank brother TI candy’s started to feel a little crunchy on our black mountain jape. Quick look on Wych bearings and ordered a pair of INA roller bearings and a pair of enduro roller bearings. Bit of a ball ache to get the rollers out without a puller but job done spiny

Having previously ran shimano SPD’s it’s not a job I’ve had to do before, I knew this would be the case.
Still love um

[ScotRoutes]

fitted a new hope BB
stripped and lubed my cup and cone XT hubs - they looked fine which is amazing as it is only the second regrease in ten years and they are on my winter SS bike.

Having seen the condition of the XTR hubs on my 10 year old Amazon, I decided on Shimano for my last wheel build too, and I'm currently considering another set for new wheels on the Occam. They're not as flash as some others but they're cheap, serviceable and long lasting.

[Lazarus]

Agreed today i was servicing a hope hub and was messing about with adapters [ sockets] and other stuff to drift out the bearings thinking this is quite a lot of faff isnt it
Also I have had to change the bearings where as the cup and cone I have not

i then realised the reason they do it - like push fit- is it is easier and quicker to make on a production line rather than it is intrinsically any better - see also push fit bottom brackets v threaded

Yes I would be happy to have them again in preference t sealed hubs

[BigdummySteve]

You have a good point there, I’ve recently put new bearings in my hope rear, 18 months old sealed bearings apparently are a myth. At least with good old fashioned cup and cone you could easily perform ongoing maintenance, occasionally a new set of balls. I also strangely miss that fine art of setting it just right so when you tighten the QR it’s nice. Another example is my hope BB, 30mm axel with external cups, now on its second set of bearings, ceramic but still needing regular flushing and re-grease. A cheap as chips shimano squares taper would go on for an age.
It could be nostalgia but mid nineties xt/xtr stuff was simple and bombproof, although it was had to admit my sons brakes (shimano deore) work better than the Sram crap on my Fargo.
Progress it seems, only benefits the coffers of equipment manufacturers and not those like myself who are mug enough to fall for the emperors new clothes.

[Lazarus]

I also strangely miss that fine art of setting it just right so when you tighten the QR it’s nice.

Oh that was indeed a joy to do and only took two goes to get spot on.
It is indeed nice to be able to service and pretty much faff free once done.

Agree about square taper but i seem to get more life out of external than when i first tried them* - probably better at getting the tension correct i assume.
sealed are good for the headset though. I suppose anywhere where its pretty easy to get them out - hope free hub is a major pain to service .


* first replacement in five years or so across a number of bikes

[lune ranger]

S

Looks like you've been liberating bits and bobs from work there Shaf.... tut, tut

Today I made a new wire to connect my dyno hub to the Igaro switch after the old one mysteriously parted on my ride on Monday. Now have return of full lighting and charging facilities.
Needed to solder on the waterproof connector and s pair of spades. I do love heat shrink.

[redefined_cycles]

Haha... Lune Ranger... you had me thinking there... not sure exactly where that red plastic attachment came from but possibly off something that was gonna get chucked away after being used at work

Everything else fully from the hardware/grocery stores though (plastic tubing from b and q for a syphon I once had to make for extra oil being poured into engine at service [by the twits]... You did get me worried about one clamp that I have as part of this kit as it looks dangerously close to a chest drain clamp... not even sure where it came from but 100% not anything from work as I do try to keep eveything kosher

[lune ranger]

Very honourable
You wouldn't want to see how I put sealant in my tyres then...

[redefined_cycles]

LR... I dont know but I can think of a few options that would work rather nicely.

The way I'm currently doing it (honorably) is using the Revosealant nozzle and removing core and squeezing in carefully.. Works well but getring the ml just right can be a bit of a bother if your tired oh how a 50ml syringe connected to a red drawing up needle would be so wonderful if only the local chemists sold em... haha

[Alec]

Full change of brake pads as the braking material had rusted off the backing plate on one pad.

[pistonbroke]

Flushed with success of making a Revo light extender, I wanted to mount my Joystick adjacent to it to give a bit more light on off road sections. I'd also re-sited my cook kit that is in a feed bag after spending 500km banging my knee on it when mounted behind the bars so space on the bars was at a premium. I'd got one of those figure 8 accessory mounts but lost the tube that goes through the upper hole so tried a CO2 cannister which fitted perfectly. I love stuff that has 2+ uses, if I need to blast a tyre back on the rim I can simply detatch the light and screw in the adapter.