Somewhat too deserted in some cases as shops are few and far between and most restaurants are closed. E.g. last night, all the restaurants and bars within, at least 30km were shut, and we neglected to check the opening times of the shop properly, but were saved by a roadside veg stall which we turned into stew in the cabin we were staying in, which fortunately had a kitchen. Wouldn't have changed it, the sense of peace was wonderful. On the bus to Tallinn now, which will be a culture shock! Just checked and there's at least three taprooms within a stone's throw of the hostel we're staying at open past midnight. Guess we'll appreciate them
We'll miss Hiiumaa, but I won't miss my hire bike with its worn Schwalbe Land Cruisers and 21 speed Tourney that wasn't lubricated to begin with. I don't know why they'd fit a triple chainset - the ramp onto the ferry was the most significant incline we encountered
We rode up to the highest point on the island, and in fact, western Estonia... a dizzying 68m above sea level. Still, the bikes survived without incident, which was lucky because I'd brought my touring toolkit with a small pump, which it turns out only fits presta valves, and a multitool, but the axles were nutted, so the spare tube the shop lent us would have been useless because I had no spanner and no way to inflate it anyway.
Oh well…
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