Day 10

Although the hide had provided dry shelter neither of us has anticipated just how cold it would get in the night. It had got down to 5 degrees but it felt much colder. The cow returned on occasions to check we were still there, or make sure we weren't getting too much sleep

Due to the cold we were both up early. Packed away the sleeping kit, had breakfast, made sure the hide was as we found it (probably tidier) and were on our way by 07:45, earliest start for a while.



The floor being elevated may have contributed to the cold with the wind blowing underneath? The night before someone in the pub had found a pair of glasses just after the camper van crowd had left. Just as we left the hide one of them walked past, I inquired if any of them had lost their glasses and it was him, so let him know they were at the pub. Called in at the loos but all the taps said 'not drinking water' so went to the posh hotel, I sent Mike in and they begrudgingly filled the bottles, glad we didn't eat there

I'd ridden the next section on the CL300 in 2020 but as it was dark then (probably around 01:00) it all seemed new anyway. The route climbs steadily up through the Glen which was full of wildlife. We came across a Peregrine eating the remains of a recent kill which was a first for me. We don't have them on the Island. We dropped down to Corgaff Caste which was a bit underwhelming, the road sign at Cock Bridge provided much more entertainment



A brief section of tarmac and then onto the old military road. The road surface is remarkable preserved considering the age, the bridges look a bit sketchy but all have new bridges or easy to ride diversions.



We came upon a Lapwing chick on the track, enjoying the sun, although Mum overhead wasn't very pleased to see us, so a quick snap and left them to it.



The final section back up to the road was very steep and the sun was now out so we decided a push was the best option. Once at the road we were rewarded with a very fast descent on road and the off for pretty much the next 9 miles down to Ballater where we stopped for a second breakfast. I went to turn of the Garmin but the on/off button just disappeared inside, the rubber of the button/surround having failed Luckily as I was using an external battery it turns on when plugged in and will shut down after 30 seconds of being unplugged so I could still use it. We were sat outside the cafe and about to pack up when who should appear, the kiwi bikepacker! She was pushing on to Aboyne for food. The route follows the Deeside way from here to Aboyne and it was nice easy riding. Just far enough top let breakfast go down before stopping again for coffee and cheesecake at the Spider On A Bicycle cafe Located in the old Railway Station.



Who did we spot inside enjoying the curry? The Kiwi bikepacker. Seeing as this was the third time we'd met I decided I'd need something more friendly for my write up so finally asked for her name, advising it would be for my trip report so she could make one up if preferred? She offered Alice, which I think is her real name. Having finished the curry and with a takeaway desert (cheesecake which was twice the size of ours?) Alice stopped to chat. Now we were on first name terms I thought it would be appropriate to introduce Ralph If she didn't think I was weird before she certainly would now I was somewhat surprised she had heard of him before? Maybe his fame hasn't reached the southern hemisphere yet?

The next section includes the Fungle Road which would be a big climb. As we climbed up the going wasn't too bad to start with. We could see black clouds ahead but Mike knew there was a lodge with a porch we could shelter under up ahead and not too far as himself, Javi and Andy had done the same when riding the Cuckoo In the Glen route. As the first rain drops started we upped the pace, as the rain started to come in heavy it became an uphill sprint finish to the lodge



It was worth the exertion as we sat out the worst of the rain under cover, eating snacks and keeping an eye out for Alice who we knew wouldn't be far behind. She arrived to miss the end of the downpour but it was almost over by then. The 3 of us then rode on with the prospect of the steep section to come. The 3 of us kept leapfrogging each other as the track climbed. Towards the top there are zig zags and the odd stream crossing so now it was also on/off riding/pushing. As I pushed up a particularity tough section Alice rode past, I'd like to be able to say it was her 28 tooth chainring which allowed this but in reality she's just a really strong rider.... and also probable 30 years younger than me... but mainly a really string rider.

The view back down the track gives some idea of the climb but it doesn't really do it justice.



There's a gate at the top and the 3 of us reached the top just about together. The descent off the other side is a better track as it's used by vehicles, and very very fast! The first section drops 1000 feet in just under 2 miles A brief spell of tarmac to regain composure after the descent and then into the next Glen. We were beginning to think about where we might stop for the night. The land here was mainly farmland with livestock so not many options to camp. I was also starting to rain. There is a campsite on the list of POIs with the route and as we had some phone reception I called them to see what the score was. The number is the owner, he was going to get the warden to call us back. Not wanting to loose reception we stayed put but now the midges had found us! Mike and myself rode round in circles in the field just fast enough to keep them at bay, myself one handed with my phone held up checking it still had signal. There were houses on the hillside across the river so if they saw us they must have wondered what on earth we were doing

When I got the call back I said we were on bikes with tents, and the tents only took up as much space as a coffee table so could be just pay for one pitch? Yes, that would be fine. We said we'd see him soon. He gave me instructions on where to go when we got there. The next section soon deteriorated into mud and general farmland slop, the trail became a feint line in the grass and the cows became very excitable and decided to charge us! By the time we made the campsite (taking about 3 times longer than we thought it would) we were so battered I'd forgotten the instructions. Something about a lodge? Turn left at a green but? A quick call and the warden came to meet us. He was a really sound guy. We could pay for just one pitch (£25) the showers were free, we could pitch down by the camping pods as they were empty and we could shelter under the porches and there were picnic tables

We rode down to the area and who had beaten us there, Alice The 3 of us pitched our tents, cooked dehydrated dinners in the rain and then sat on the steps to a pod to eat in shelter. Mike and myself drank yesterdays free beer and I shared my chocolate around. A good end to a tough days riding.



It was then a nice hot free shower and as a bonus a previous user had left their shower gel Clean and warm it was time for bed.

65 miles and 5350 feet of climbing

Hope you signed Alice up! It would be interesting to have an occasional "Letter From Auckland". Or at the very least she'd make a great penfriend for Ralph?

I did tell her about the forum and that I'd write up the trip so hopefully she reads this.

She's much more adventurous than me and Ralph so her trip reports would be more interesting than mine

Excellent write-up, Sean. Loving reading the episodes

Looking forward to seeing how you got on in Fife

Cracker of a report, keep em coming!

Day 11

Alice was up and away early as she wanted to get to Dundee, long gone by the time we were up. We packed up in the rain but at least the wet weather brought an improvement in the temperatures with the overnight low of a giddy 10 being the warmest night yet

Headed out in full waterproofs and into heavy rain, probably the wettest it had been so far. Luckily it was only 2 miles into Edzell for a great breakfast. Slightly worried when we walked in that the people in front were being asked if they'd booked but they had room for 2 wet bikepackers. Sadly the rain didn't stop whilst we ate so it was back into the full waterproofs and into the rain again. There was lots of tarmac, it was all roads in the rain for the first 20 miles which didn't help moral. We then turned onto an old railway line for the ride into Arbroath. We could now at least see the sea. There route follows the coast round for the next 24 miles. In good weather this is probably stunning but in the rain and with a grey sky it was a real drag. It was also pan flat so not even any climbing to break it up. We stopped at a pub at Carnoustie for a warm up and to get dry and spent ages drinking enormous pots of tea

Once back on the coast things did eventually improve. The poor weather didn't seem to deter the golfers but the local courses are pretty famous so they may have come a long way to knock a ball about in the rain

There were several art installations and sculptures along the way which also makes me think these would be busy promenades in better weather.



Dundee arrived and with it the Tay Road Bridge. I do like a good bridge, the Severn Bridge was a highlight of last year's trip.



We went up in the lift to get to the bridge, a first for me with a bike. The pedestrian/cycle land is in the centre of the bridge so we didn't get to look over the side which is always a thrill. An odd quirk of the location is that in this direction it is uphill all the way. Once at the other side we turned off route as we were heading into Tayport for dinner. As soon as we rode into the car park next to the bridge who she we meet... Alice. She had been around the V and A to see the Kimono exhibition. We had a catch up on both our days - mainly riding in the rain - and she headed off and was considering a detour into St Andrews and we headed towards Tayport. We'd called ahead to the Bell Rock pub to see if they were serving food, which they were, so headed straight there.

Upon arrival we were pleased to find out that the pub is actually a curry house upstairs We were the only customers but it was Sunday. The staff were all very friendly and despite it being just us there the kitchen sounded busy, I'm guessing the do take-away. A curry and a few pints was just what was needed after a day in the rain and drizzle. Post diner it was off to the co-op for supplies and then out to the estuary by Tentsmuir Forest. Seeing as 'tents' is in the name it's the obvious place to camp



Drifted off to sleep to the sound of seals on the beach

Only 52 miles and just under 1500 feet of climbing (I can do that in 10 miles on my way home from work) but it seemed a harder day. The accumulated fatigue and poor weather taking affect.

bringing it all back to me pal. Nice write up mate

Day 12

A dry night and a low oif 7 degrees so another good lights sleep. This was the second bivi by the sea, I'll have to look for similar locations on the Island but none spring to mind? Maybe on the mainland over Swanage direction? Suggestions welcome by PM.



Ralph didn't have such a great night, he said something about having a nightmare about a giant bag of eyes?



How many chocolate buttons can you add to your breakfast before it's no longer breakfast with buttons and becomes buttons with added breakfast?



There were a few cool things nearby, firstly this hut on stilts



No clue to it's purpose. Post trip research (googling) hasn't really helped but a photo I found shows it has windows on the other side so it's for looking at something, wildlife? It may of originally had another use and it's been converted into this? Might explain the odd construction, as this is nearby.



I know what this is... as there's a handy sign to tell you



Originally a railway wagon for ammunition in WW2 and then became a moving target for aircraft to practice with. Mike then took us through the woods as there as another local sight worth seeing....



There's a local hermit type who lives in a collection of sheds/caravans and the grounds are populated with a large number of 'companions' This is just a few of them. Some too rude for a public forum From here it was easy riding through the woods to a cafe for breakfast 2. Got chatting to a couple of other riders about bikepacking, they were out before work - we weren't that early - they don't start until lunchtime. It was then back through Tayport and around the coast. We went off route to avoid the main(ish) road and followed the route of an old railway. The higher elevation also provided better views of the railway bridge.



We headed out of town and onto quiet back lanes. Stopped for a chat with a chap touring, panniers etc. and he had started in Orkney and was riding home to Blackpool! He had no fixed route but was sort of just heading down the east coast and then across to home when he felt like it It was now turning into a nice day and the sun was out, we weren't used to riding in these temperatures. We decided to head off route and drop into Newborough for a late lunch, a big road descent to get there. Unfortunately when we did there was nowhere to eat. The cafe in town closed at 3 and so did the one at the garage. I guess they have a gentleman's agreement not to stay open later and take each others trade. It was now a long climb back out but it didn't seem as bad going up as I thought it would be from the descent.

It was another 10 miles to the next supply opportunity in Ladybank where we called into the shop. Went to use the coffee machine but as soon as we started on the options it shut down, the chap who works there was most confused as it's never done that before, I suggested it had heard our English accents and decided coffee is only for Scots so turned itself off With a coffee and a snack in hand we sat in the memorial garden and watched a bloke repeatably throw his dogs ball into the flower beds and the dog would dive in to retrieve it and destroy the flowers in the progress Re-fulled we headed on along more quiet lanes to Freuchie where we bought supplies at the coop. A rough section through farmland including an overgrown climb at the edge of the field up to the tarmac again and we were now faced with a choice. We could continue on the route or head off route in search of dinner. Choosing the latter we dropped into Falkland and managed to get a table in the pub.

We got chatting to the couple on the next table and they told us all about the town... apparently if you watch the series Highlander some of it was filmed here. The pub features in the first episode. Falkland is used as Inverness from several hundred years ago? Didn't mean anything to me. The couple were from Brazil and looking around and listening to the accents it was clear it has brought people here from all over the world, so very good for business.



After dinner we braced ourselves for the next section, an 800 foot climb up the road to the Lomond Hills. In the end it was all surfaced so not too bad, just took it steady and paced ourselves. There's a car park at the top of the road and then the trail heads off road. The route actually skirts around the side of the hill and doesn't go over the summit. We started off on the route but then decided we climbed this far so why not push up the last 350 feet to the top. We had thought about biving but the sign says it's an ancient monument and there's no camping, it would of been too windy anyway. Well worth the push for the views.



I would recommend anyone who rides the Pictish Trail does the same and goes over the summit, provided the weather is clear. We then had to descent off the other side, met a lad carrying his bike up. We were on East Lomond and he'd been out and back over West Lomond, and had a crash on a descent. We were more careful (as we are much older) and made it down unscathed. We had spotted the reservoir in the distance from the summit and earmarked that as potential bivi spot. Below the main wall these it a nice area of grass but a little exposed. We scouted out some woods at the far end but there was lots of rubbish and old fire pits As it was the grass was just right with a handy fence to lean the bikers and get organised.



There was enough of a breeze to keep the midges away so I was able to enjoy my supper sat on the wall of the reservoir



52 mile and 3800 feet a third of which was the climb up East Lomond

The tin hut on Tentsmuir beach was used by spotters as part of the firing range and then latterly a bird hide.
Glad you spotted the weird manikins next to those caravans - means I didn't imagine it! (See my April BAM) The route from Freuchie is a bit rubbish - you can do it off road to Falkland via an old ROW which is much nicer (in fact you can do it nearly all off road from Ladybank) and you can get to the West Lomond car park on a nice stony trail too. If anyone else is reading this and wants to do the route, drop me a line and GPX's will be supplied, including for the next bit where the route takes you through Ballingry via a crap road, instead of a fine trail over Benarty Hill (out the back of the RSPB place) with an ace singletrack over the top.

Anyway, I'll shut up about my local manor, can't wait to read the finale

Day 13

Another warm night, well 9 degrees but seemed warm compared to the 3 degrees earlier in the trip. The sun was shining first thing but the first few spots of rain started just as we were taking the tents down. The track started off good, then became a boggy field, then back to a better track. We then had to turn off and we could see the route was into a boggy single-track when the good track we were on continued on. We turned off to follow the route despite our reservations. The going was ok but after prolonged wet weather it might be tougher. However, this is the track which goes past the waterfall/pulpit so worth the effort.



Once past this point the track becomes a fast and flowing sandy single-track all the way down to the road, great fun but we were on it first thing. Only past a few walkers coming up the track but later in the day descending at speed might be an issue. We stopped for breakfast at the farm shop/cafe at Loch Leven which I imagine would be packed on a weekend lunchtime, it was pretty busy first thing. It's then good riding around the Loch on a track that's had a lot of money spent on the surface, there was a sign with the cost per mile but I forgot how much it was now. There is also a bird hide just off the track with would make a handy bivi spot for anyone riding the route. The route goes through the Willie Clarke Centre (Loch-Ore Country Park) which is located at a former mine.



The route doesn't follow the bike trails but we took the opportunity to ride them so followed the green then a red until we arrived at the visitor centre and decided we'd earned an ice cream



The area was more built up now, following cycle paths through the suburbs, past a former open-cast mine and then roads and surfaced cycle paths all the way to North Queensferry. We decided to drop down the front to get a good view of the rail bridge but weirdly this required a long climb Worth the effort.



We stopped for some lunch and managed to avoid the rain as we were in the cafe during the worst of it. I had bacon and cheese waffles which were amazing Heading back out of North Queensferry we climbed the road part way before pushing up the steps to the bridge. A fun ride across the road bridge which also provides a great viewing platform to see the rail bridge. The route follows the coast around before picking its way through to the centre of Edinburgh. We made it to the castle but weren't allowed any further as they were preparing for the military tattoo and the access was restricted at certain times. I even tried the sob-story of how I'd ridden from Dunnet Head to get here but no luck. We took a photo outside and then tried to find a bit of the road with less people to load up the route for the next leg to Glasgow. As we were looking at our garmins I hear a kiwi accent asking 'are you lost?' Alice! She had made it to Edinburgh, booked into her air b&b and headed out to do some sightseeing. We had a catch up on our travels of the last two days and then headed our separate ways. Our paths were unlikely to cross again It had been fun never knowing where we'd unexpectedly meet, it reminded me of racing when you'd bump into other riders over the days as you leapfrogged each other.

Leaving the city it was nice to see some of the old architecture but I was also glad to be getting away from all the people. We headed east back towards South Queensferry but on a different route to our way in. We were thinking of trying to get to the pub in Blackness (The Lobster Pot) for dinner as an earlier phone call had confirmed they were serving food. As we approached Queensferry a check on progress and the time showed there would be a good chance we'd be too late for food so decided instead to have fish and chips which were really good. Anther lucky break meant we missed the rain again whist we sat in and ate. Out route took us along the coast so a chance for a picture of the road bridge.



We checked out some coastal bivi spots on the way into Blackness but the onshore wind would have been a bit much. We were right to have stopped for chips as when we got the the pub was shut. We found an outside tap in the garden, considered biving there but it was a bit cramped, then decided to backtrack into the woods west of town. Some other potential customers were just walking up as we left and were most disappointed to discoverer they also wouldn't be getting a drink. Back in the woods we found a flat spot and got sorted.

It had ended up being quite a long day at 64 miles and 3500 feet, with the concentration required to ride in the city much more draining than the glens of the previous days.

You passed about three miles from where I grew up in Dalgety Bay. I've walked over the bridge many times, but never cycled over it for some reason...

I'd also noticed the route takes you past the waterfall and John Knox's pulpit on the ld trail which is technically closed as the Pulpit keeps partially collapsing!

Trivia - Willie Clarke who the meedies visitor centre is named after was the last elected Communist Councilor in the UK. As with all ClarkE's he was a decent sort and very easy to deal with unlike some of the other Councilors in that area...

Day 14 We expected to be woken by the early morning dog walkers but there are two parallel paths through the wood, upper and lower. As we were on the upper all the dog walkers had chosen the lower, to save walking up the hill.



I hadn't paid much attention to this tree the night before but I had noticed the bottles and assumed someone had just gathered up some rubbish but closer inspection showed the bottles were all much older and included those from the days when the contents were described on the outside as part of the bottle.



Once back out of the woods it was easy riding on tarmac paths, mostly on the John Muir Way (more on him later) into Bo'Ness for breakfast.



Bo'ness seemed a bit of a sad town, I assume the loss of industry has hit places like this hard. That did mean we got a cheaper breakfast at the cafe, no upmarket artisan breakfasts here. It once musty have been quite prosperous as it was the first place in Scotland with a cinema.



Out of town we passed into the remains of the Kinneil Estate. Quite by chance I spotted a sign on some walls...





This is where James Watt did his main work, so this location is the start of the industrial revolution. The entirety of the modern developed world started here. How is this not more celebrated? Get within 100 miles of Stratford-upon-Avon and signs appear directing you the the house of some bloke who may or may not have written some plays... but the home of the start of the modern world, just leave it hidden in an old Estate

Next stop was Canada Wood just outside Falkirk. There's a good cafe here which we stopped at but not before riding the bike trails Next up was something I'd looked forward to seeing for some time.



It's very clever... but the striking thing is the simplicity of the way it solves the two most important things, equal weight in each trough and keeping them level. We stopped for ice cream at the visitors centre as we were now far enough south for it to be sunny and hot From here it would be an easy spin along the canal top get to Glasgow... apart from the headwind The other thing with riding along canals is you have to pedal all the time so there is no rest on downhills.

We decided we'd stop for food at a canal side cafe at some boating facilities. Went in an ordered food and sat outside drinking a pint. After some time we began to wonder where the food was, we'd been waiting 50 minutes. Mike went back in to ask and they said they'd find out. A few minutes later a very embarrassed employee came out and apologized, the chef had unplugged the printer in the kitchen when cleaning and forgot to plug it back in. Would we like an extra pint whilst we waited? We chose a half as there was a fair way to cycle yet and 2 pints sat in the sun with empty stomachs was bound to end it trouble When the food did come out not only did the burgers seem to have much chips etc. than expected but the chef had made us a bowl of nachos as an apology The nachos would have been nearly enough to feed to 2 of us in their own.

Suitably stuffed it was back to the headwind. Discussion turned to the route. Technically we needed to ride into Glasgow to do the first section of the Badger we'd missed by starting in Milngave but we'd ridden in a city yesterday and one a year was enough for me, plus we were short on time due to the food delay. We decided to sack it off and cut the corner back to Milngavie. Here we stopped for another ice cream as temps were still in the 20s.



It's a long drive back to Mike's so didn't want to start it at the end of the day so we headed back out along the WHW for a few miles to a campsite at Ardoch. This was a strange place with both glamping tents you could rent but also van-lifers staying for free. It's also a hotel and serves food but doesn't have a license so no celebratory pint for us. The food looked underwhelming and wasn't cheap so I ate my last porridge and besides I was pretty full from the late lunch. We got a free continental breakfast included with our pitch so I didn't need to save any food for the morning. Showered and out of the riding kit we sat about by the tents until the midges came out then retreated to the lodge. Sat in the lounge there was a portrait on the wall with a photo of John Muir tucked in the corner.



Talking to the owner it turns out John Muir's farther was the pastor at the chapel on the estate. The John Muir was passes through, presumably for this reason. The portrait is a romanticiced image of John as a young boy. He walked from here to California, he should have ridden it would have been quicker

49 miles and 2175 feet of climbing so an easy day on paper but they've been getting harder as the days went on.

Day 15

We ate as much as we could at the continental breakfast, cereal, yogurt, toast etc. and then packed up for the 6 miles back down the WHW to Milngavie. We rode in our 'town' clothes to save putting the smelly riding kit back on. When we got back to the start of the WHW I spotted someone who looked familiar. It was a US you-tuber called Dixie (Homemade Wonderlust) who was just starting her WHW walk with her husband. Her videos have had over 8 million views so even more famous than Ralph, just Stopped for a chat and then had a coffee and a huge pastry from the nearby cafe. An old looking leather football rolled under the table and as I chatted the owner about how we used to play football with one just like it when I was a nipper and how it was best not to head it when it was wet a woman came up and asked if I was from the Isle of Wight? Apparently 'nipper' isn't a term they use in Milngarvie. She was from the Island but had moved up a few years back. Then it was just a short ride back to the van and a long drive back to Bromsgrove. At 14 nights out that's the longest trip I've done.

Final totals were 819 miles ridden with 59951 feet of climbing, 1 coach journey and 4 ticks

Great stuff Sean and Mike I have really enjoyed reading all about it .

It's taken longer to write than it did to ride it

sean_iow wrote: ↑Fri Aug 02, 2024 3:14 pm It's taken longer to write than it did to ride it

Much appreciated too. These longer reports take a lot of thought and effort.