What you done t' your bike today

[Rapideye]

Finally gone tubeless with a set of 700 x 40 Pirrelli Cinturato H on the Tempest. Even took off the mudguards now we've had a bit of sun.

[redefined_cycles]

Finally gone tubeless with a set of 700 x 40 Pirrelli Cinturato H on the Tempest. Even took off the mudguards now we've had a bit of sun.

Nice one. Once you go tubeless you try not to go back. Don't forget to drop the pressures until they feel nice and solid (but not squishy). Congrats...

[godivatrailrider]

Added a Redshift Shockstop stem to the Jones.

However I've discovered it doesn't work as expected with Jones bars, it possibly works better ... or not at all...I'm not sure....

Jones bars put the hands rearward of the stem front, the bit that activates the suspension, so with the hands on the ends of the bars ( where I'd hold on a descent ) you're actually pushing the stem upwards and thus zero damping.
Move hands to any of the forward positions, where I'd have them on road sections, or moderate climbs, you get full damping... almost like having your hands on the hoods on drops.
I get a good inch of movement there.

This might be ideal.

I've ridden rigid most of my life, I like it. I like KNOWING the ground I'm travelling over is rocky or sketchy, it keeps me focused.
So when I'm descending, maybe I'm not bothered about having no damping there, it's just like having a rigid stem, I'm in control.

Over cobbles, ripples etc when I can have my hands forward, yeah then I want damping.

Might need to adjust the polymers. I have the set to the straight bar, which probably isn't right for when the hands are on the front of the bars...

Tinkering / tuning required

[godivatrailrider]

Added a Redshift Shockstop stem to the Jones.

However I've discovered it doesn't work as expected with Jones bars, it possibly works better ... or not at all...I'm not sure....

Jones bars put the hands rearward of the stem front, the bit that activates the suspension, so with the hands on the ends of the bars ( where I'd hold on a descent ) you're actually pushing the stem upwards and thus zero damping.
Move hands to any of the forward positions, where I'd have them on road sections, or moderate climbs, you get full damping... almost like having your hands on the hoods on drops.
I get a good inch of movement there.

This might be ideal.

I've ridden rigid most of my life, I like it. I like KNOWING the ground I'm travelling over is rocky or sketchy, it keeps me focused.
So when I'm descending, maybe I'm not bothered about having no damping there, it's just like having a rigid stem, I'm in control.

Over cobbles, ripples etc when I can have my hands forward, yeah then I want damping.

Might need to adjust the polymers. I have the set to the straight bar, which probably isn't right for when the hands are on the front of the bars...

Tinkering / tuning required

tuned the stem down a level ...went up to a 90... but I don't have THAT much weight right on the front, no significant bar bag or harness and the position isn't as weighty as "on the drops" ... 90 was too hard. Immediately changed to an 80 and did a recent ride yesterday, mixed terrain, was ok, but I'd still prefer it a little softer, so I've now changed to a 70, which without a decent ride to confirm, feels about right.

[PaulE]

Leading on from the bike build, I made a seatpost...

25.4mm mild steel tube, 3mm plate top and bottom of the rails, no angle adjustment as it's on a jump bike and 2 M6 allen bolts to hold it still... All working rather nicely so far! Only issue is that I forgot to make a shim for my 27.2 seat tube, but 4 wraps of Guinness 0.0 can did the trick nicely...

I'd planned to fillet braze it, but couldn't face the heat in an already hot classroom, so stick welded it instead.

[fatbikephil]

Interesting stuff, Godiva, never thought to so something like that on a Jones although mine has a 3" front tyre so probably not really worth the expense....

And speaking of the Jones I've just finished swearing at it, or rather at stuff bolted to it!

Thought I'd better sort a few issues ahead of the NYM300 as I've hardly touched the bike since before the HT last year, other than washing it.

First up was the creaky KS dropper. Pulled it apart and all looked OK apart from the top bush has worn a dozen tracks in the stanchion. It's a crap design as instead of being a plain bushing, its a sort of roller bearing arrangement.... Anyway bunged it full of Molly D which should stop the creaks. The monumental faff was getting the bottom cap back on. The threads are very fine so I was very careful putting it back on. A few threads out of fully home it stuck. Much wiggling back and forth with the pipe clamp got it tight but then I decided to unscrew it again to check and clean the threads. It would not go back on square, almost like the threads had worn away, which they hadn't. A lot of faffing, thread cleaning and chasing (and swearing) later it went on.

Next faff was the EBB, which I hate. I think they are fine on a geared bike as you don't touch it but on the SS you are adjusting regularly and so muck and grit gets where it shouldn't and creaks ensue. So took it out, cleaned it all, put it back in. You have to take the cranks off to do this which is starting to worry me with the middleburn square tapers as this is what causes them to crack... I'm actually ruminating over converting the BB to the latest version, but this will require some thought, an angle grinder and a welder.

Finally, my fairly new hope rear brake was losing the lever on the last ride which is annoying as I got these to avoid this. Bleeding them reminded me why I hate Dot brake fluid as it ended up everywhere as usual. Air appeared which had been up at the M/C end, no idea how it had gotten in, must have pumped the lever with it on it's side in the car or something. One thing I liked about shimano brakes was that leaving the lever taped open over night would allow such air back into the M/C. Hopes don't seem to want to do this.

Phew, what a marathon. Hopefully all OK for next weekend!

[redefined_cycles]

With 2 ITTs now entered and no mtb to do em on. Then this Saturdays NYM300 one being so close and me going to work tomorrow night for 2 days, things have gotten a bit desperate.

Adaptor to make the DT Swiss rear wheel into boost added. Just needs a bit of redish tomorrow. Carefully removed tyre and got over 70ml of Vegelatex sealant out of it. Probably the heavy duty Michelin wild endure going up back and the Specialized Butcher that John sends me going up front.

Front wheel removed and washed in Bath. Ready for a shallow-attempt at applying tubeless tape tomorrow (shallow cos I'd normally clean it properly with IPA or similar... which I guess I should still do). Then rear mech to find and add and maybe cut the steerer on the RS posh forks. Who needs so much steerer to sale-proof em anyway!

Bars, brakes and dropper routing also has to be done tomorrow if I'm to be in time to start packing my BPing gear in time for the early train on Saturday. Watch this space..

[faustus]

Sounds really stressful Shaf, good luck and hope you get there!

Not today, but a couple of weeks ago I got some cheap new gravel wheels from Merlin (including loyalty discount). Cheaper because they were OEM and centrelock. Thought i'd make do with CL adapters and the rotors I had, but most of the rotors didn't fit over the CL splines so ended up getting new CL rotors which were 'only' £27 each Yup, probably the same as the saving on the wheelset had I gone for a 6 bolt one, but nevermind! Also got some faster 40c tyres, in the shape of Terreno Dry, which seem great. The bike has gone from hefty winter mode with mudguards, to slightly less hefty, more sprightly summer mode. Weight as pictured with seatbag, cages and pump is 24.5lbs. Don't think it's that light, but it's OK. The Ti Titus 29er is very similar weight, including pump and stuff.

Anyway, i've very much gone narrower on gravel tyres now. Having gone fairly large, and also using 650x47 extensively, for my local needs this is better. Probably because the rigid 29er does loads more of the XC stuff the gravel bike used to do, and the mix of terrain the bike covers has changed.

[redefined_cycles]

Bikes looking lovely there Faustus. I love Sonder (aside from the little issue with customer service and their poorly glued carbon Transmitter trash). As them Ritchey bars I spy!!

Glad you got it sorted anyway and at least you had a chance to shop at Merlins. Always had respect for that outlet. Not sellout like CRC and Wiggle

[redefined_cycles]

Anyway, so yesterday's claim to absolute fame was that I salvaged the Vegelatex gunk from the rear wheel on which the boost has been adapted and a heavy tyre is going on. About 20 ml in my bottle of gunk before and after nicking back the sealant from the rear wheel, I'm now at about 150ml Could have definitely said that I only put in about 70ml when I filled it, but I'll take the free gunk!

Front forks, I decided to sale-proof em even less. Marked and started cutting but didn't wanna disturb/knacker the existing star nut. So after a few turns of the Teng cutting tool I realised I'd be overlapping the star nut and that'd would be a pest to get off. So starting cutting from further up the tube. Then after whacking the star nut in further with the proper (Pedro's, I'll have you know ) tool I only went and got it seized on.

Grippers tightened over the tube and Pedro's setting tool whacked off. Next I noticed the bearings weren't playing smoothly when turning the forks. Not good at all and turns out I was a shim or few short of a full line. So alternate bottom bearing popped in the frame and crown race swapped to a 'whacker-plate' one (if you know what I mean.

Now all is running smoothly and using the (calibrated) Sealey torque wrench Stu told us of years ago in the bargain thread. Had to buy some 1/4 sockets for the car to use this so now it's in use. Happy to report that my usual method of elbow torque is within 10% of that tool. The wrench is 10% within range so I reckon my elbow is 5% within tolerances

Getting there, watch this space... Pics might be up-a-coming...

[JohnClimber]

As I had a morning spare.

2 bikes bottom brackets and crank arms removed and re greased before assembly.
And serviced a squeeky peddle too

[redefined_cycles]

Couldn't find the rear mech. Needed to have it at least looking half-bike before departing for work! Tubeless tape applied to rear wheel then redished it to allow for the boost adaptation.

Broke 2 out of every 5 spoke nipples. Why do wheel builders allow customers to still specify alloy nipples on mountain bikes. I really don't understand em! Got it relished as best as I could and wondered about the repercussions of riding it like this.

I guess it's only removing the nipples and applying sole brass ones. Will see how I gets on with rest of build. Removed everything (well alot of stuff) from shed and finally found the rear mech. Disaster averted...

Departed for work!

[voodoo_simon]

New cassette and chain fitted, worked like a dream on the ‘stand

First pedal stroke on the driveway and the chain bounced off Refiited the chain the right way and it still bouncing off

New chainring and jockey wheels ordered, will find out later this week if this solves it…

[robsmuddygloves]

Used a wax lube on my chain, time will tell, but it's smooth at the moment.

[godivatrailrider]

...fitted Ergon GP3 grips to the Brompton.
Got a 39T and an Ergon saddle winging their way to me too...

[Lazarus]

Used a wax lube on my chain, time will tell, but it's smooth at the moment.

Great for road . Off road it seems to just give up very rapidly. Ie fine at start of a local.loop shot after 10 miles ( still use it but mainly for start of an ITT )

If yours works better let me know what brand it is

[redefined_cycles]

When I was a lad, my dad (with all love and respect) was either at work or doing some sort of charity work. Hence I can only really remember my grandad taking us to the (Greenhead legendary) park. So my plans always been to ensure I do continue the charity work in some way/shape or form, but also not (kind of) deprive the kids of my time.

So after a 400 mile round trip to work and being away for a couple of days - half of it sleeping rough no doubt, like a proper tramp in my car at Gloucestershire Farm shop services - I was determined that today we sort/upgrade.

His new wheels had arrived after he'd worked his rear one to the death. Before departure for work I'd also earmarked my locking grips that also need the handlebars sticking at an angle. Todays (bloomin) boxing day so riding my new ( and lovely) new mtb for 60 or 100 miles would have to wait.

Morning, had prayed early morning prayers after getting back from Bristol last night at 0230, so woke for about 0940. Boxing at 1200 but the plan was to push him to run/scooter it down. What lovely incentive. He ground my coffee and I got the scooter out with grips. He helped me the little man Alhamdulillah (All Praise God) and about an hour later...

Scooter sorted and we ensured to not overtorque the new wheels with upgraded Abec9 bearings. Handlebars sliced, and the grips I bought years ago for a few quid, on. Then before 1140 hit we were out the door for the 1.5 mile trip to the gym.

Halfway in he tells me that we only have 6 minutes left. Told him to scooter it on as he told me I have to run, so I did. Made it to boxing just in time and he's super impressed with him upgraded scooter. New brake pads await at home for his bike which will soon get mtb wheels on. That bike has had an upgrade of brakes from Tektro to the Avid Single Digit Ti/Speed Dial Ti to the calipers and levers.

He's loving it all. Rim wranglers were on already but sadly the pad fell out as the pin was a it sized and I was in a rush when it went on (oops). Long story I know...

[fatbikephil]

Always good to see a positive outcome to some spannering Shaff!

On the other hand, I didn't...

Got yet another flaming puncture yesterday whilst out on another lengthy ride - exactly the same format as umpteen others- riding along on a track in the middle of a forest, next thing sealant is spraying all over the place out of a tiny single hole on the crown of the tyre, no sign of thorn, nail or whatever. In error I continued as it seemed to be sealing / leaking so I figured it would seal properly eventually. By the time I hit Aberfoyle, the sealant had sprayed out and it was plug time. This got me home so today I set too patching. Did it all properly, inflated, only to hear hissing air. It then sealed once I'd spun the wheel a bit but now I'm faced with a dilemma - leave or have another go. *sigh*

I wouldn't care this is on the back of having to fix two punctures on a the same motorbike on two successive runs, bunging a spare engine in another bike only for it to sieze after three miles, having a massive faff with the detachable tow ball on the car whilst rescuing it, having to remove and then fix said detachable tow bar

[redefined_cycles]

Sorry to hear that Phil. What sealant you using/ what tyres (out of interest). Hope you makes thr right decision. Most of the plugs that have ever sealed for me end up staying put for months on end But I know that's no help whatsoever to ya!

[fatbikephil]

Stans which I've never been wholly convinced about but too tight to lash out on Orange seal, which I'm told is better..... Tyres were green Conti gravelkings which seem reasonably robust. I've had the same issue with G-ones and WTB's , I just wish this effing spike wouldn't keep following me around and stabbing my tyres!

On a slightly more positive tubeless note, I switched the fat bike to it's summer tyres last month and both have been deflating overnight with sealant oozing out of the rim drillings. Turns out the Effetto rim strips have perforated. This is the second pair and I'm not getting any more as they are now 50 odd quid! A pity as they work well for a few tyre changes.

Anyway a pair of spesh 24 x 2.5-3 inner tubes at £3.50 ea have gone in as a split tube set up which is idiot proof. I may try taping them at some point but this will do for now (trans, the next 5 years)

[redefined_cycles]

[woodsmith]

Gave it a wash after 5000 km round Spain and France. Greased the front hub, binned the chain at 0.75% after 15,000 km , oil change on the Rohloff , new larger 203mm front disc (up from 180) and fresh pads. All ready for another 5000 km of neglect.

[redefined_cycles]

Very good life out of that there neglected chain Woodsmith. What lube are you using. I'll assume an oil based that you regularly just top up and wipe down!

[woodsmith]

Very good life out of that there neglected chain Woodsmith. What lube are you using. I'll assume an oil based that you regularly just top up and wipe down!

Smoove wax lube in a bottle. Unfortunatly I think it might have gone out of production? It was over three long mostly dry extended trips of around 5000km each (Morocco, Romania and France - Spain). I cleaned the chain between each trip but other than that just added extra lube. I never with wiping the chain down as I feel like all I'm doing is pushing the dirt which is sitting harmlessly on the outside of the chain back into chain to do more damage. Its on a Rohloff too so theres non of the added wear of being forced side to side by a derailleur.

[faustus]

Finally finished the Cotic Soul gen 5 mullet build i've had on the backburner for ages. The frame was a bit of a bargain I bought thinking i'd have a trail bike for fun days out when I get the time (my most scarce commodity). A mega cheap set of 27.5 wheels, second hand TRP slate's, £35 chainset from Merlin and lots from my parts stock, including the canyon dropper. It's built up to 30lb with pedals, which is good. Quick go round the block and just needs new front pads as they're contaminated from the previous leaky caliper. Needs a shakedown ride now.


As it was an impulse buy, i'm not sure if it'll actually get used much, or if a sus fork on the Titus will be enough for the kind of trail riding i'd actually end up doing.