Attempted to fit a cheap Microshift 10spd 48t cassette to my camping bike which has a Deore 10/11 speed mech.
Turns out that when Shimano say the max teeth it can handle is 46, they meant it!

Normally have a 42t cassette on but would like an easier gear for steep climbs when loaded up.

However, the cassettes are quite expensive (£50 or so), so I have decided to order a 12 speed Shimano Deore mech for £50 and another Microshift cassette as they are £20 each. In a way, it sort of saves money and I can put the current stuff on another bike or something.


Looking forward to making another post about how the 10spd shifter and 12spd mech don't talk to each other, or a 10spd chain won't fit a 12sped mech.. Hopefully not!

a goat link or a longer B screw would have resolved that issue

Mechs have two measures capacity [ difference between largest and smallest teeth it can cope with] and maximum cassette size

yourguitarhero wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2023 9:28 am Attempted to fit a cheap Microshift 10spd 48t cassette to my camping bike which has a Deore 10/11 speed mech.
Turns out that when Shimano say the max teeth it can handle is 46, they meant it!

Normally have a 42t cassette on but would like an easier gear for steep climbs when loaded up.

However, the cassettes are quite expensive (£50 or so), so I have decided to order a 12 speed Shimano Deore mech for £50 and another Microshift cassette as they are £20 each. In a way, it sort of saves money and I can put the current stuff on another bike or something.


Looking forward to making another post about how the 10spd shifter and 12spd mech don't talk to each other, or a 10spd chain won't fit a 12sped mech.. Hopefully not!

Surely a 12 speed shifter is indexed for 12 slightly closer spaced cogs than a 10 speed. I guess it 'might' work but is sounds sub-optimal to me.

Lazarus wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2023 9:33 am a goat link or a longer B screw would have resolved that issue

Mechs have two measures capacity [ difference between largest and smallest teeth it can cope with] and maximum cassette size

I tried turning the b-screw in, and while I could get it on to the lowest cog ok, it was rubbing badly on the second cog. This was with the chain length set for a 42t cassette. The mech arm was parallel with the ground at this point.
I added a couple more links to the chain, but at that point I couldn't get it to go to both the largest and shortest cogs at the rear - winding the b screw in enough meant it wouldn't shift on to the smallest two cogs. Other settings ended up not going to the low cog or it jamming between the cassette and the top jockey wheel.

At that point I gave up as I hadn't had my breakfast yet!

A goat link could do it, but I've read mixed report on the shifting with them. Figured I'd just get this new mech.

godivatrailrider wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2023 9:53 am

yourguitarhero wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2023 9:28 am Attempted to fit a cheap Microshift 10spd 48t cassette to my camping bike which has a Deore 10/11 speed mech.
Turns out that when Shimano say the max teeth it can handle is 46, they meant it!

Normally have a 42t cassette on but would like an easier gear for steep climbs when loaded up.

However, the cassettes are quite expensive (£50 or so), so I have decided to order a 12 speed Shimano Deore mech for £50 and another Microshift cassette as they are £20 each. In a way, it sort of saves money and I can put the current stuff on another bike or something.


Looking forward to making another post about how the 10spd shifter and 12spd mech don't talk to each other, or a 10spd chain won't fit a 12sped mech.. Hopefully not!

Surely a 12 speed shifter is indexed for 12 slightly closer spaced cogs than a 10 speed. I guess it 'might' work but is sounds sub-optimal to me.

It's a 10 speed shifter and 10 speed cassette. I *believe* the pull ratio between Shimano 10, 11 and 12 speed MTB stuff is all the same so this should work. I hope!!!

I fitted a new chain on Sunday, unfortunately the cassette was too far warn so had to order a new one.

The old one was pretty well fixed to the hub freebody (Hope) and took a while to get off but now I've a new chain and cassette for the weekend

A goat link could do it, but I've read mixed report on the shifting with them. Figured I'd just get this new mech

Worked fine for me but not done hundreds of miles as it's on the kids bike ( to fit an extender cassette)
Just done it for a drop bar 1 X 11 @ 46 rear so will report back ( fine for the first 50 miles).

Lazarus wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2023 11:33 am

A goat link could do it, but I've read mixed report on the shifting with them. Figured I'd just get this new mech

Worked fine for me but not done hundreds of miles as it's on the kids bike ( to fit an extender cassette)
Just done it for a drop bar 1 X 11 @ 46 rear so will report back ( fine for the first 50 miles).

On reflection, I've decided to get one and try it before the new mech. Can send the mech back if the link doesn't work.
Got a Sunrace one for a tenner off Amazon Prime.

just be aware they also come in different lengths - I only know this as the two I have are different lengths

Sunrace looks like its the shorter version from a quick look

Lazarus wrote: ↑Wed Apr 05, 2023 6:51 pm just be aware they also come in different lengths - I only know this as the two I have are different lengths

Sunrace looks like its the shorter version from a quick look

Hopefully Ok as I'm only exceeding the max teeth number by 2. I checked the capacity rating that you mentioned and the cassette is within that too

Fitted a new chain to the RAG+, all the shifting issues seem to have disappeared...
Also fitted the new mudguards to the Scandal, so you can thank me for everything suddenly drying out...

Got the hanger extender fitted and everything fits now and I can change gears from top to bottom. A 48t gear is outrageously spinny haha
So, I can send that £50 mech back, woo!

Other jobs:
Put some ergonomic grips on that I forgot I had bought years ago and left in a box of bike bits. They are KCNC copies of Ergons, with little bar ends. Never liked them for singletrack/trail riding, but think they'll be fine on a rigid camping bike. Will see how they work with my numb wrists/carpal tunnel.
New Fabric Radius saddle. See if that helps with my bony butt.
Even after baking my brake pads and cleaning the rotors I was getting some squealing from the front again. I thought I didn't have any pads for these brakes, but I did, they were just behind the chainsaw of all places?!? So, new pads in and still some squealing though not at banshee levels. More cat whose tail has been lightly stepped on. Found Clarks rotors for a fiver delivered on Amazon, so got one of them, popped it on and now the brakes are superbly peaceful.

Anyway, getting the bike packed up today and a short trip to the beach to camp to see which bits totally don't work at all even though they seem fine now...

New outer chainring on the roadie 11,000 miles so not too bad, new cables and wheel bearings but only because I had some in the toolbox otherwise I'd of left em I think

Set a new star nut in the fork of my new bike. I'd got the headset working smoothly, but on its second ride out, realised it was knocking a bit. Tightening the preload bolt had no effect, and I must have pushed it too far, because the star nut buckled. I thought the star nut was the problem, but with the new one set I still can't get the last bit of play out. I'm pretty certain I've got everything in the right place: fork > crown race > seal (may have this the wrong way round, but tried it both ways) > bearing (cage) > bottom cup > headttube > top cup > bearing > top cone > compression ring > top cover > spacers, stem, top cap. I've got 4mm ball bearings but not convinced the play is just worn bearings, so scratching my head on this one.

thenorthwind wrote: ↑Sat Apr 08, 2023 8:55 am I thought the star nut was the problem, but with the new one set I still can't get the last bit of play out.

Obvious question, do you have 3mm of a gap between the top of the steerer and the the last spacer / stem...?

As above - put another spacer below the stem?

What they say as you need enough space above the end of the steerer to compress( without hitting the steerer) as it won't compress below this ( as the cap hits the steerer)

I don't like a spacer on top of the stem, but there looked to be enough space... Just possible that once it's all together and lined up, that's disappeared though... I'll have a closer look in the morning. Thanks!

Had a spare 15 minutes, so decided to twerk the height of the bars on the RAG+; wish I hadn't bothered. Moved one of the spacers below the stem and flipped the stem, then sheered one of the bolt heads off at 5Nm... Rode it around the garden anyway, urgh, all wrong; I think I should just either flipped the stem, or lifted it, not both. Will have to dig out a 2mm drill bit and try and force the remainder of the bolt out.

First time setting up tubeless. There was quite a bit of effing and jeffing, but the blighters are seated and on. Curious to see if they still hold any air for my Sunday morning ride tomorrow. A hugely personal and subjective question, but what sort of psi do people use? Much of my current riding is flat Fen’s bridle way, but I’m off to Brecon and a route kindly supplied by Verena, so may well adjust it for that trip.

I don't like a spacer on top of the stem

Agree but it all depends how much steerer the stem pinch bolt has to clamp on to as I like that close to the end even less , especially if a carbon steerer that may crush.

Put a 2mm spacer in and it's fine Can't believe with everything I've done with this bike that it was that that tripped me up. Thanks for setting me straight anyway.

thenorthwind wrote: ↑Sun Apr 09, 2023 10:07 am Put a 2mm spacer in and it's fine Can't believe with everything I've done with this bike that it was that that tripped me up. Thanks for setting me straight anyway.

Pics? Of the bike, not just the spacer......

. A hugely personal and subjective question, but what sort of psi do people use?

I know folk use tubeless to go as low as possible, but I go for as high as I can without affecting comfort/grip. So much depends on weight, rim/tyre combo and terrain. Start hard and lower pressure gradually until you get the feel you want. Easier to let air out than put it in, especially if you squirm the tyre round a corner and belch a load #tubelessjargonalert

boxelder wrote: ↑Sun Apr 09, 2023 10:31 am

thenorthwind wrote: ↑Sun Apr 09, 2023 10:07 am Put a 2mm spacer in and it's fine Can't believe with everything I've done with this bike that it was that that tripped me up. Thanks for setting me straight anyway.

Pics? Of the bike, not just the spacer......

Watch this space, and be careful what you wish for...