The weather looked minging but this was pretty much my only chance for this sort of ride in Scotland this year, I made sure I packed the waterproofs.
Day 1
I caught the 7.30am train from Stirling to Inverness, arriving at 10.30. Another cyclist was already on it and also doing the route. We chatted a bit. He was taking the North route but it was his first multi day ride/camp and he was using it as training for another event later.
I left the station and picked up a charger and cable as I’d left mine at home. At about 11.30, I made my way out of the city, taking a few wrong turns before correcting myself and getting back on route. The route on the south shore, with suggestions from Fatbikephil was good. A mix of trails, quiet roads and a bit of pushing up the switchback at the Fair head Lad's pass. Going up was a pain, descending was a treat.
An early sight of Loch Ness...
Descending after Fair Head Lad's Pass
I had a decent stop at The Waterfall Café in Foyers for a snack and then ended up on the road to Suidhe viewpoint, a bit of a drag but I consoled myself that it was probably still easier than dealing with the North Shore. Views at the top helped.
The descent to Fort Augustus was long and fast and I ended up arriving at about 17.00, hitting my planned arrival time. Got some chips, some supplies from the shop and then started up the Corrieyairack Pass.
Being honest this worried me a little. It’s got a reputation, in case you haven’t heard. I wanted to get to the bothy but wasn’t really sure how long it’d take. The weather had been beautiful all day but was to turn in the evening. As it was, it started raining about 7.30 and I hadn’t made it to the bothy yet. I found a nice enough spot and decided to pitch up before it got too wet. I was cold too and just thought I’d be careful. The rest of the pass could wait till the morning.
Day 2
It rained most of the night but the tent held up ok. It did ease just before I got up but was still raining lightly as I packed, making sure the tent was packed away wet. Two guys on mountain bikes slowly ascended past as I neared setting off. On stopping the night before, I had no idea where the bothy was but I cycled past it after about a half hour. This cheered me a little, as I thought I was further away than I was. I was going to stop to check it out, but as I’d only just got started, I kept going.
Going up the pass was slow, a little riding, a lot of pushing. No surprises there. The weather wasn’t great and it kept raining. It was cold too. It was especially bad as I got to the top. 3 Canadians were sheltering in Jimmy G’s shack at the very top and after a quick chat they made their way down to Fort Augustus. I got changed into waterproof trousers and put on arm warmers and buff to deal with the cold on the way down. And it was cold and wet but I did slowly warm towards the bottom. Very shortly after leaving the top, the Guy from the train rode up behind me. He’d got to Fort Augustus at about 8pm after losing a fork bag and spending 3 hours retracing his route to find it. Bummer. He was already planning on ditching at Corrour and catching the train. He said he’d stopped at Blackburn Bothy and had chatted to two women staying there.
I came across the Whiskey Guys setting up to await the HT550. Had a chat with one of them for a couple of minutes before heading on. My Wahoo had lost the route somehow by this point and nothing I did got it back. I had to keep checking komoot on the phone, Google maps too, to make sure I was taking the right route.
From the bottom of the pass to Laggan, the weather improved. I had lost my rear light somewhere and my bell had fallen off and was now stored in my pocket. As I neared, Lochan Na h-Earba, the wind got stronger and rain returned. I was regularly showered on. Just as I dried a little, I’d get soaked again. I was tiring now and the last few miles to Loch Ossian were a drag. At least the rain eased and I found a place to camp at the Loch edge. No midgies were around but I soon realised they were only luring me in. As soon as I started to get the tent up, they swarmed me and made mincemeat of my legs. I did manage to rest, cooking pasta and chorizo. It was early to bed.
Camp Spot on Loch Ossian
Day 3
I slept really well until about 6am. I don’t think it rained much during the night and I was looking forward to the Corrour Cafe and a cooked breakfast. I didn’t have it quite so easy! It started raining again as I packed up. Tent was packed away wet again and I got soaked on the few miles to the cafe. It was cold and windy and I was pretty pissed off by the time I got there. At least it was warm. I spent about an hour there having something to eat. I wasn’t that happy though. I was wary for the rest of the day. If a train turned up there and then, I’d seriously think about taking it. I knew I’d regret that though.
The rain started up again as I left the cafe and headed up Rannoch Moor....not before taking another wrong turn (Wahoo still not showing the route). My mood improved as I headed up. The rain came and went and I met a few other cyclists coming the other way. The views were spectacular, especially as I looked to the west. As it was, the trek/cycle across Rannoch Moor didn’t take me as long as I thought and that encouraged me. Mind you, the wind and rain really picked up as I hit the road towards Loch Rannoch. A real downpour stopped me riding and see it out before continuing.
Fortunately, the rain then eased a bit for the next couple of hours. It didn’t stop completely, small showers came and went, but a bit of sun was even mixed in. The ride along Loch Rannoch was pleasant. A group on e-bikes passed by and another bikepacker couple did too. We’d leap-frog each other until they caught up with me at a car park near Carie where they borrowed my pump and they helped confirm the route over to Glen Lyon.
I wasn’t looking forward to the climb over to Glen Lyon. Actually, it wasn't too bad.assumed it’d take a while. A bit of riding, a bit more pushing but the descent, although rough in places, was decent. I surprisingly made it to Glen Lyon Tea Room before it closed. I nearly missed it but saw the Bikepacker couple’s bikes there, so quickly turned round. I was so pleased at this. My mood really changed from earlier in the day. Some nice warm food and a reassurance that I’d also get to the Lubreoch Dam to camp for my last night. 2 other bikepackers came in shortly after. I’d seen them at Fort Augustus chippy, then at Corrour Café and now here. They were also likely the women who’d stayed at the Blackburn Bothy. A little chat was made.
After eating, we all left just as the Café closed. The ride along Glen Lyon was nice and a lot more enjoyable as I wasn’t getting soaked every 5 minutes. I only had to put up with a bit of a headwind. As I neared the dam, I spotted a small flat area at a bend in the river. Checking it out, there was no wind, so I thought it a pretty perfect, sheltered area. Of course, the wind picked up again as soon as I started pitching the tent. Nevermind, all was good when it was up and I watched Oystercatchers skimming the river and I relaxed while snacking before turning it.
Day 4
I slept well again. It also didn’t seem to have rained much during the night and the tent was quite dry as I got up…although, as soon as I did, it poured again. Tent packed up wet for third time in a row. Nevermind, last day today. Plan was to head first for something to eat at Killin and then pick up NCN 7. I was pretty sure I’d be able to make it back to the folks roughly around the time I’d expected. I could also get a lift from there if required. Honestly, I was kind of planning that. The rain was going to continue during the day and all I’d be missing was a route to take though Doune, Dunblane and skipping Stirling. A route I’d done a few times. I’d see how things during the day.
As soon as I started, surprise…surprise! It started raining and kept up all the time it took to get over and across to Glen Lochay and to Killin. It was cold too. I passed some guys working on the road. Surprising as it was a bank holiday. The ride along Glen Lochay didn’t take too long and, on arriving in Killin I stopped at Shutters Café. There were a few cyclists sheltering in there, including the bikepacker couple too. The soup, roll and coffee went down a treat and sorted me for the ride to Callender.
I had confirmed pick-up in Callender after all and considering it rained all the way down, it was the right choice. I’d had a good time, even with the weather. I didn’t envy those riding the HT550, who’d started a couple of days earlier. The Badger Divide was great. I’d kind of cheated to shave off a few miles and I don’t regret that. It’s not as if it made it super easy and I was pleased at my progress overall. The route is a challenge and the conditions didn’t help but there was a pay-off. The views are regularly vaguely exciting, the camp spots were cool and with a satisfaction of completing what I did. On finishing it, my Dad asked if I’d do it again. Straight away, I thought of the Corrieyairck Pass and said some of it but not that section. With it now being a month later, I’ve changed my mind and I’d happily do the whole route again.
My well-deserved meal at the Folks!
