This years Cairngorm tour

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fatbikephil
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This years Cairngorm tour

Post by fatbikephil »

I've done this route with variations more times than I can recall, however in terms of smiles per mile, it scores very highly, particularly if you get the weather right. This came at the start of a fortnights holiday, most of which would be spent astride a motorcycle (or at least sat in a field next to a motorcycle drinking beers and spinning yarns) so I was keen to bash out a few miles and make the most of a brief heatwave set fair for the whole of Scotland. I got to Blair Atholl just as a very heavy shower came on, but it lasted all of one minute before the sun re-appeared. Thunderstorms had been predicted at one point but according to the beeb and the met office, the evening should be dry. After a fish tea and a final ruminate on which way I should go round (i.e. the normal way up the Gaik, or in reverse up Glen Tilt) I headed up Glen Tilt, solely due to it looking sunnier east rather than north.

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The trundle up the glen was a joy - in warm sunshine and a gentle breeze to push me along and keep the midges at bay when I stopped to appreciate the view. I paused at the Tarf water bridge for a beer ahead of the singletrack climb. Most people advise going east to west so it's a downhill but it's actually fun either way. I got up most of it, despite being SS and emerged at the watershed at half 8.

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I'd various ideas for a bivvy but ended up at Bynack Lodge as there was no one else to be seen. Maybe they were all in the Red Bothy! Sure enough the midges were about but I managed to set up and get in the bag midge free. I tried out my 'flextail' bug killer but as far as I could tell, it didn't work....

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In view of the forecast I went tarp free and after a dram or four slept soundly until first light.

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Somewhat murky, and a bit damp thanks to a heavy dew. I slept for another hour but decided to get going just after 6 as I had a fair ways to go.

Breakfast was procured at Greens (Nee the Co-op) courtesy of a Fisher and Donaldsons steak and haggis pie, followed by a fudge custard donut. I nearly went with the coffee tower but I always end up with most of it in my beard!

So onwards and upwards into clearing skies and hot sun. I faffed to find the new 'shared use' path that was finished last year but, although it does miss the A93 out to Invercauld, starts in the middle of a load of steep and rooty singletrack.

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The Cullardoch climb followed and then the usual route south to Tomintoul. I saw many other bikepackers, one with a dog and trailer, others on the usual mix of machines. Best of all, I spied an Eagle floating above the hillside opposite. More food at the Firestation cafe in TT followed and texts with friends (who I was staying with that night) indicating they were heading up to do a lap of the Glenlivet trails. I figured on joining them so ground up the Speyside Way climb up Carn Daimh and hit the trails off this, looping back round to the start and the cafe. After a cold coke (it was now roasting) Rob, Iona and Alex appeared and we rode the trails back round to my high point of an hour ago. I left them to finish the loop and descended off the SSW back to the road for a leisurely trundle to their place. A mighty fine BBQ followed and much chit chat, beer and good cheer.

The next day was still breezy with rain a coming. I blagged a lift to Nethybridge with a mate (steadfastly not taking him up on an offer of a lift back to Blair Atholl) and headed south via the standard Cairngorms tour / loop route.

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I spied this sign on Ryvoan pass. Just as I finished reading it, I heard a heavy tread and the crack of branches and there, right behind me, was the Capercaillie!! Or was that the Jaberwockie...
Needless to say it was actually nowhere to be seen, but this is the first time I've seen this tactic to keep people away from them.

I did think of an extra loop to bag Ben Alder and another night out but the weather to the west looked decidedly ropy. So far I'd caught one heavy shower and a few sprinkles but straight south looked a better bet. It was still pretty breezy but I made it all the way through the Gaik only needing to don jacket once.

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I do like this trail. Scores for this pass is 17 times, 20 up and down Glen Tilt! I think I need to ride somewhere else for a change.

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Oh bloody hell. This pipe bridge has been here for many, many years. In 2012 the river ploughed through the ground I'm stood on and the bridge was bypassed, remaining redundant until 2020. This led to a lot of troublesome river crossings here, particularly in 2014 post storm Bertha. In 2020 the estate restored the river to it's original line under the pipe bridge and did a lot of work with very large rocks and gabions. This has all been to no avail. Worse, the pipe bridge a k downstream was also wrecked (but just passable) and it had survived all the 2012 storms, Storm Bertha and Frank. The thing is, when I was here a year ago, all was well and there weren't any storms over the incredibly dry winter so I think this only happened a few weeks ago... Oh well, we'll wait and see what the estate does this time!

Anyway, I rolled down the glen and back along the cycleway, reflecting on a fab days bike ride.
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Bearlegged
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Re: This years Cairngorm tour

Post by Bearlegged »

Oh well, we'll wait and see what the estate does this time!
[Sucks teeth, shakes head]

Nice little report that, Phil, leaves me wanting to have a good amount of time experiencing the Cairngorms.
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Charliecres
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Re: This years Cairngorm tour

Post by Charliecres »

Enjoyed reading that! I love those trails :-bd
Hyppy
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Re: This years Cairngorm tour

Post by Hyppy »

Lovin' it!
fatbikephil wrote: Mon Jun 23, 2025 8:44 pmso I think this only happened a few weeks ago
Since April at least, Phil … 
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IMG_1549.jpeg (291.68 KiB) Viewed 119 times
I crossed and followed the obvious track for a little while before realised it should have stayed on the other side and climbed up to the boggy plateau.

Edit: I think I'm looking at the same broken bridge from another angle or is it just coincidence? NN 71756 78776: https://explore.osmaps.com/pin?lat=56.8 ... al&type=2d
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fatbikephil
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Re: This years Cairngorm tour

Post by fatbikephil »

Hyppy wrote: Tue Jun 24, 2025 10:46 am
I crossed and followed the obvious track for a little while before realised it should have stayed on the other side and climbed up to the boggy plateau.

Edit: I think I'm looking at the same broken bridge from another angle or is it just coincidence? NN 71756 78776: https://explore.osmaps.com/pin?lat=56.8 ... al&type=2d
Yup, that's the one - must have got trashed over the winter then. Thinking about it (and referring to my weather station data!) there was a lot of rain in January, coinciding with a large temperature spike after about the only decent snow amounts the Cairngorms saw this year; so that would have done it.

The trail which doesn't cross the river appeared after the bridge first got bypassed and should really be the one that gets used - it's a bit boggy though...
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Loki
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Re: This years Cairngorm tour

Post by Loki »

Great write up, I have been reading through all the back posts on your blog, been loving it and adding places to my bucket list.
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ton
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Re: This years Cairngorm tour

Post by ton »

cracking that. need a trip north. :-bd
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fatbikephil
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Re: This years Cairngorm tour

Post by fatbikephil »

Loki wrote: Tue Jun 24, 2025 2:15 pm Great write up, I have been reading through all the back posts on your blog, been loving it and adding places to my bucket list.
:-bd
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