I find any spots (or a boil in Ton's case it seems) in that area tend to be down to ingrowing hairs. IMO that's just a sub standard-happens kinda thing, rather than a saddle problem. I would get over the boil before embarking on a saddle trying and buying frenzy
Maybe go for a CB&S wax instead of the usually cut-throat shave
Fabric saddles are pretty decent and had a 90 day trial period when I got mine. Spesh also good and where some of the first to come in 3 widths. Also had Fiziks that work well. You can measure your own arse using tinfoil on a soft seat - just measure between the indentation of your seat bones.
Selle Italia SLR Ti on all bikes. It's just the right shape for my bum. Also it allows me to shift weight and still ride in comfort, something I don't find on most other saddles.
I am the World Champion of saddle sores. Some of mine have qualified for their own post code. I've used Scoops for the past few years and my arse loves them, and Ive been largely sore free since, but I reckon it's the liberal use of Sudocrem that has done the trick more than saddle choice.
For rides under 6 hours I really like the Charge 'Spoon' but I find that beyond that it starts to rub (and eventually leads to evilness).
For longer rides and multi day trips I've got a couple of Brookes Cambiums (15 and 17) which I find uninspiring if I think about short term comfort but which allow me to get on with riding without saddle soreness and so in that respect I love them.
So far from looking at saddle shape /design for an upcoming project ... I'd say saddles come in 2 basic shape types and 2 side profiles, most are a combo of 1 of each the 2 types. Shape - concave or convex side-to-side across the rear part - the 'Spoon' (velo mold that many others use) shape or a Cambium is more convex. A WTB is more concave, the sides are flatter with a central depression. Side profiles are either flat or an S-curve where the rear rises up, eg Spoons and WTBs are S-curve, an Arione is flat.
I prefer concave saddles like the WTB, makes quite a difference to long ride comfort. I'd prefer a flatter profile than WTB tend to have but it's not a problem to be S-curved.
The other bit that makes a difference is width. Going from a WTB Volt in 135mm to 142mm was a minor revelation, my sit bones were better supported by the area a bit further in towards the centre of the rear part of the saddle rather than almost overhanging the edges. Makes sense to have a saddle in the right width for you, and your riding position since as you lean forward more you sit on a narrower section of your pelvis base.
I generally like Sella Italia saddles but not all of them. The comfiest (remaining comfy for days on end) are the SL model featuring a full length cut-out. Although lightly padded, the base of these is quite 'flexy' and they have a very flat top - both of which I seem to get on with. I did try an SL of the same width without the cut-out and although it was Ti railed, it didn't seem to offer the same degree of flex ... after 4 hours I took to standing up at any opportunity.
I also aim to set my saddles absolutely flat. The only exception to this was on the TNR where it tipped the nose down slightly which seemed to alleviate a little pressure on the prolonged climbs.
Something which doesn't seem to conform, is cheap to try (ebay etc), I've got Ergon SRX30 on all my flat bar bikes. Broad and flat, with a kick up at the rear that's really handy for pushing into on climbs. And match my grips nicely.
Don't work for me on the drop bar bike funnily enough, got an Evans version of the Spoon on there which I get on fine with.
Bearbonesnorm wrote:Although lightly padded, the base of these is quite 'flexy' and they have a very flat top - both of which I seem to get on with. I did try an SL of the same width without the cut-out and although it was Ti railed, it didn't seem to offer the same degree of flex ... after 4 hours I took to standing up at any opportunity.
Same here. I could (and have) ride the Selle Italia SLR sans pad. It's the mould which does the magic. Actually all my friends I go riding with run SLR of some type, my girlfriend absolitely loves her SLR Flow.
I too think flat tops facilitate very steep climbing. Try climbing on a WTB saddle, sitting further forward to keep the front wheel down, do the same with a flat top saddle. I find flat tops much more comfier, as in SLR or some Fiziq.
The only difference in Ti rails is they last longer than the Vanox railed ones. I can't feel a difference in flex of the rails.
I was a long term Brooks B17 (ti) user until I tried a Cambium C17. I was so impressed I sold my B17's and bought Cambium's.
I use the Cambium 'unpadded' in jeans on the fixed commuter folder.
I wasn't convinced when I first saw it given the convex shape, but the built in 'boing' makes it work for me.
Not so much a gravel grinder.... more a gravel (mud and tarmac) groveller...
Brooks cambium C17 here on all my bikes. Perfect for everything EXCEPT for wet/sandy/silty off road adventures that are around 6 hours or more (as the Cambium does suffer with abrasion due to its construction). The Brooks C17 is by far the most comfortable saddle I have ever owned.
For the shorter, off road days then I use a Bontrager Covee as it kind of works for me - but not many other people - so I can get them cheap on EBay and not erode the top surface of the C17's etc.
I love my B17, it was a 5th hand eBay purchase and it took me a very good while to get my bum to adjust to it, but wouldn't use anything else for long distance rides now. Definitely not a lightweight at almost 0.5kg but comfort wins for sure. Using on the BC trail later this summer, can't wait!