Wheel building (rear)
Moderators: Bearbonesnorm, Taylor, Chew
- gairym
- Posts: 3151
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:05 am
- Location: Chamonix, France (but a Yorkshire lad).
Wheel building (rear)
I'm thinking that it's about time I built myself a wheel!
I've got some basic knowledge about the how of it all but I could use some assistance with which components I should get.
I'm looking to build a rear wheel for my (new!!!) 29er (don't worry, I've got one to use whilst I perfect the new one) and so am wondering what rim, hub and spokes to go for???
People seem to be loving the ZTR 'Crest' but I've also read that for the more portly gentleman (I'm about 95kg) a 'Flow' might be the way forward - what do you think....?
Are there any others I should consider in that price range?
Are the 29er Mavics any good? The TN719?
DT Swiss rims are something I've never seen anything about but they make good kit and seem to be available for the same kind of money (can't remember which model) - they any good?
Next, the hub.....
Can I just use any hub or do they need to be 29er specific?
I've always used either XT or Hope - any reason to start looking elsewhere?
Spokes?
Here's my info to aid you in your suggestions:
Weight: 95kg
Bike: Steel 29er HT with Reba fork
Terrain: mainly rocky hard-packed single-track
Style: I ride heavy and have a tendency to destroy back wheels
Any and all thoughts appreciated as always.....
Gairy.
I've got some basic knowledge about the how of it all but I could use some assistance with which components I should get.
I'm looking to build a rear wheel for my (new!!!) 29er (don't worry, I've got one to use whilst I perfect the new one) and so am wondering what rim, hub and spokes to go for???
People seem to be loving the ZTR 'Crest' but I've also read that for the more portly gentleman (I'm about 95kg) a 'Flow' might be the way forward - what do you think....?
Are there any others I should consider in that price range?
Are the 29er Mavics any good? The TN719?
DT Swiss rims are something I've never seen anything about but they make good kit and seem to be available for the same kind of money (can't remember which model) - they any good?
Next, the hub.....
Can I just use any hub or do they need to be 29er specific?
I've always used either XT or Hope - any reason to start looking elsewhere?
Spokes?
Here's my info to aid you in your suggestions:
Weight: 95kg
Bike: Steel 29er HT with Reba fork
Terrain: mainly rocky hard-packed single-track
Style: I ride heavy and have a tendency to destroy back wheels
Any and all thoughts appreciated as always.....
Gairy.
- gairym
- Posts: 3151
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:05 am
- Location: Chamonix, France (but a Yorkshire lad).
Re: Wheel building (rear)
I should also say that if anyone has some bits for sale I might be interested!
Also, if anyone knows of 'THE' place to by any of the above bits then that info would be great too.
Also, if anyone knows of 'THE' place to by any of the above bits then that info would be great too.
- Bearbonesnorm
- Posts: 24197
- Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2011 8:53 pm
- Location: my own little world
Re: Wheel building (rear)
For a start I wouldn't go near DT rims, it might just be one of 'those things' but I've seen more of these destroy themselves than anything else ... they seem very 'soft'.
If money wasn't an issue then I'd go Hope for hubs ... I'd also look at the offerings from Superstar, my 29" wheels have had some hammer and are still going strong, without me ever having to look at them.
I'm sure you're well aware that building wheels is likely to cost you the same or possibly more than buying some
If money wasn't an issue then I'd go Hope for hubs ... I'd also look at the offerings from Superstar, my 29" wheels have had some hammer and are still going strong, without me ever having to look at them.
I'm sure you're well aware that building wheels is likely to cost you the same or possibly more than buying some

May the bridges you burn light your way
Re: Wheel building (rear)
andI'm thinking that it's about time I built myself a wheel!
Sounds like the perfect situation to be in if you want to get lots of practice at buildingStyle: I ride heavy and have a tendency to destroy back wheels

I'd say Stan's Flow rim, 36h, Hope Pro 2 hub (a hub is a hub, regardless of rim diameter), DT Competition spokes (or the Sapim equivalents) and brass nipples. I suggest that if you're a heavy rider, particularly with the added weight of bikepacking, the 36 hole and brass nipples are two important requirements that shouldn't be overlooked.
- Bearbonesnorm
- Posts: 24197
- Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2011 8:53 pm
- Location: my own little world
Re: Wheel building (rear)
Yes, as Ian says ... brass nipples.
There's a lot of debate as to whether butted or plain gauge spokes are stronger / weaker. My opinion is go butted. On the subject of spokes, I wouldn't fit black ones ... the only spokes I ever see snap are black ones
When you're building the thing, keep in mind that the strength of a wheel is far greater than the sum of its parts ... uniform spoke tension is the key
There's a lot of debate as to whether butted or plain gauge spokes are stronger / weaker. My opinion is go butted. On the subject of spokes, I wouldn't fit black ones ... the only spokes I ever see snap are black ones

When you're building the thing, keep in mind that the strength of a wheel is far greater than the sum of its parts ... uniform spoke tension is the key

May the bridges you burn light your way
Re: Wheel building (rear)
+1 for brass nipples, double butted stainless spokes (DT and Sapim are good, ACI ok) and even spoke tension.
I like Shimano hubs - the last model of XT (M756?) is particularly good, I believe - as they're cheap, easy to service, have forged hub shells, good quality axles, seals and bearings and robust steel cassette bodies.
I've been using Mavic TN719 rims on my MTB for three years now, no problems. Not the lightest, but ok.
I like Shimano hubs - the last model of XT (M756?) is particularly good, I believe - as they're cheap, easy to service, have forged hub shells, good quality axles, seals and bearings and robust steel cassette bodies.
I've been using Mavic TN719 rims on my MTB for three years now, no problems. Not the lightest, but ok.
- 99percentchimp
- Posts: 1057
- Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:46 pm
- Location: North Wales!
Re: Wheel building (rear)
Hi Gairy,
Mavic 719s on Hope Pro II here with DT Swiss butted spokes.
First go at wheel building here a few years ago and these have been on my bikepacking bike for a few years now and haven't seen a spoke key since (I'm a touch heavier than you too).
Followed Roger Mussons book/instructions (http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php) and really enjoyed it. Laced tehm up dry a couple of times then oiled the nipples and applied final tension with a plastic knife as 'plectrum' to get even tension (apparently the key to strong wheels rather than heafty spokes). HTH.
Hope the back's feeling a bit better too - wheel building should be good therapy! I feel your pain!

Mavic 719s on Hope Pro II here with DT Swiss butted spokes.
First go at wheel building here a few years ago and these have been on my bikepacking bike for a few years now and haven't seen a spoke key since (I'm a touch heavier than you too).
Followed Roger Mussons book/instructions (http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php) and really enjoyed it. Laced tehm up dry a couple of times then oiled the nipples and applied final tension with a plastic knife as 'plectrum' to get even tension (apparently the key to strong wheels rather than heafty spokes). HTH.
Hope the back's feeling a bit better too - wheel building should be good therapy! I feel your pain!

Conquistador of the pointless
https://www.flickr.com/photos/99percentchimp/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/99percentchimp/
- gairym
- Posts: 3151
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:05 am
- Location: Chamonix, France (but a Yorkshire lad).
Re: Wheel building (rear)
thanks folks, lots to think about!
i've also got a load of knackered wheels laying around the place which will yield hubs and/or 26" rims for future builds (I've already earmarked an old Hope front hub for my 29er front end build).
).
thanks everyone for the help and advice - anyone got any cheap-as-chips websites to buy a ZTR 'Flow' rim or a Hope 'Pro 2' hub (or the spokes for that matter!)???
if not i might start scouring ebay/STW for used wheels and then strip 'em for parts.
cheers, gairy.
fair enough.s8tannorm wrote:For a start I wouldn't go near DT rims, it might just be one of 'those things' but I've seen more of these destroy themselves than anything else ... they seem very 'soft'.
oh sure but only initially as once a wheel part wears out (and i've got my wheel-building down to a fine art) i'll be able to simply replace the hub or rim instead paying for a whole new wheel as previously (that's the idea anyway).s8tannorm wrote:I'm sure you're well aware that building wheels is likely to cost you the same or possibly more than buying some
i've also got a load of knackered wheels laying around the place which will yield hubs and/or 26" rims for future builds (I've already earmarked an old Hope front hub for my 29er front end build).
thanks Ian, sounds like pretty much what I had in mind (although I wouldn't have thought of brass nipples).Ian wrote:I'd say Stan's Flow rim, 36h, Hope Pro 2 hub (a hub is a hub, regardless of rim diameter), DT Competition spokes (or the Sapim equivalents) and brass nipples. I suggest that if you're a heavy rider, particularly with the added weight of bikepacking, the 36 hole and brass nipples are two important requirements that shouldn't be overlooked.
s8tannorm wrote:When you're building the thing, keep in mind that the strength of a wheel is far greater than the sum of its parts ... uniform spoke tension is the key
absolutely! i've played around before (as in entirely loosening a wheels spokes and then re-tensioning the wheel from there) but i've never laced one yet (although if you follow a guide then how hard can it be?99percentchimp wrote:Laced tehm up dry a couple of times then oiled the nipples and applied final tension with a plastic knife as 'plectrum' to get even tension (apparently the key to strong wheels rather than heafty spokes).

i've had mixed success with XT hubs but they're cheap enough to replace without feeling too hard done by. we'll see how the finances are looking and then i'll see if it's Hope or XT.chris n wrote:I like Shimano hubs - the last model of XT (M756?) is particularly good, I believe - as they're cheap, easy to service, have forged hub shells, good quality axles, seals and bearings and robust steel cassette bodies.
yeah, it's getting there. i went out on the bike for the first time (since the back went) today - just did about 1km of easy trails just to see how it holds up (tomorrow morning will tell me all i need to know) as if i'm going to be in any kind of shape by the time the bb200 rears its ugly head i need to be back out on the trails - let's hope i'm able to move tomorrow!99percentchimp wrote:Hope the back's feeling a bit better too - wheel building should be good therapy! I feel your pain!
thanks everyone for the help and advice - anyone got any cheap-as-chips websites to buy a ZTR 'Flow' rim or a Hope 'Pro 2' hub (or the spokes for that matter!)???
if not i might start scouring ebay/STW for used wheels and then strip 'em for parts.
cheers, gairy.
Re: Wheel building (rear)
Justridingalong.com is worth a look for the bits you'll need. Don't know if they're the cheapest though, but very reputable in my opinion.
Re: Wheel building (rear)
Loads of good advice, especially the black spoke thing - true,.
Re. buying, you might be better off buying the wheel whole and taking it to pieces, rather than buying the parts separately. Hope will do wheels and you can specify rims & spokes (don't touch DT rims, but their spokes are top quality!) or Merlin cycles (I've bought plenty of wheels here and they're excellent value)
Re. buying, you might be better off buying the wheel whole and taking it to pieces, rather than buying the parts separately. Hope will do wheels and you can specify rims & spokes (don't touch DT rims, but their spokes are top quality!) or Merlin cycles (I've bought plenty of wheels here and they're excellent value)
Wheelism - www.wheelism.co.uk
What goes around comes around, only faster with a lighter rim.
What goes around comes around, only faster with a lighter rim.
Re: Wheel building (rear)
My first and only build was a front wheel out of two broken ones, one had a knackered hub, the other a knackered rim, the resultant wheel lasted for years. If I managed it I don't see why you can't Gairy. Hardest bit was getting the spoke pattern right, I copied it off another wheel. Good luck.
- Cheeky Monkey
- Posts: 3918
- Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2011 1:48 pm
- Location: Leeds ish
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Re: Wheel building (rear)
Although rarer nowadays make sure it's a six bolt compatible hub, if you're running discs with that fitting. Also, if you're single speeding you can get dedicated hubs.
I had several regular sized DT rims and been fine but I'd probably go for Stans.
As for black spokes being weaker

I had several regular sized DT rims and been fine but I'd probably go for Stans.
As for black spokes being weaker


- gairym
- Posts: 3151
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:05 am
- Location: Chamonix, France (but a Yorkshire lad).
Re: Wheel building (rear)
thanks, that's a hell of a site for wheel building bits and pieces!Ian wrote:Justridingalong.com is worth a look for the bits you'll need. Don't know if they're the cheapest though, but very reputable in my opinion.
i was initially pretty sceptical about that being true but the more i think about it the more i realise that the majority of the spokes i've broken have been black!wheelist wrote:Loads of good advice, especially the black spoke thing - true,.
although that could be something to do with the fact that i have always paid a few extra quid to have the spokes match my hub/rim.

yeah, i nearly always use Merlin (though have had a few duff wheels in recent years and so have started shopping around a bit more).wheelist wrote:Re. buying, you might be better off buying the wheel whole and taking it to pieces, rather than buying the parts separately. Hope will do wheels and you can specify rims & spokes (don't touch DT rims, but their spokes are top quality!) or Merlin cycles (I've bought plenty of wheels here and they're excellent value)
the whole wheel idea makes sense but i know i won't take it apart but that's ok. maybe i'll get this new wheel and then work on a few spare wheels from old bits building up my skills before taking on replacing any worn bits on wheels in the future???
that's exactly what starting me thinking - i've got loads of half knackered wheels in the workshop and it just seemed daft to be looking at yet another wheel purchase.Ray Young wrote:My first and only build was a front wheel out of two broken ones, one had a knackered hub, the other a knackered rim, the resultant wheel lasted for years.
thanks, i've got a few little pdf tutorials to follow too and so i'm sure i'll figure it out.If I managed it I don't see why you can't Gairy. Hardest bit was getting the spoke pattern right, I copied it off another wheel. Good luck.
absolutely.Cheeky Monkey wrote:Although rarer nowadays make sure it's a six bolt compatible hub, if you're running discs with that fitting. Also, if you're single speeding you can get dedicated hubs.
right, enough talk - to the workshop.....
- pushbikemike
- Posts: 559
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 12:14 pm
- Location: Borders
Re: Wheel building (rear)
I found the Sheldon Brown website for wheel building very helpful and really easy to follow. Had not built any wheels before using that site. Can't post up the link as work computers stop me going to that website. Do a search for Sheldon Brown wheelbuilding to find it. If you've never seen this site before it is/was amazing. Long time since i've been there. He died a few years ago but was a legend.
- gairym
- Posts: 3151
- Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:05 am
- Location: Chamonix, France (but a Yorkshire lad).
Re: Wheel building (rear)
yeah, his site is full of useful information - that guy knew his stuff!